D20 Transfer Case shifting

[CopperBronco]

I need some help… I seem unable to get my Bronco into 4H, it’s a 1965 mfg date as long as it wasn’t rebuilt by PO’s , the guy I bought from didn’t know… I have D20 shifter as far back as I can, even going slow speeds, or back and forth in forward and reverse(rolling in neutral). I do have a 3” body lift and wondering if shifter hole wasn’t cut to accommodate this?

I also tried shifting into a J pattern just in case but there was no wiggle in the shifter…

Is there a way on the side of the case to tell which gear it’s in? Looking at my manuals and not having much luck. I can’t see anything when I look under the Bronco.

Just to be certain, because I’m still new, the way I think I’m certain I’m in 2H, is that when in park I can get under Bronco and rotate front driveshaft freely, so it’s not engaged, whereas the rear driveshaft is locked in/engaged.

Any tricks for a D20 not going into a certain gear?

 

[DirtDonk]

Can’t give you all the answers, but for sure a 3 inch body lift can, and often does affect the limits of shifting.
If nothing was done to compensate it will almost always allow the shifter to hit the sheet metal before it’s in position. But the only way to know is for you to check it.
Pull the cover up, pull any floor covering up, take a look.
If the shift rod is even touching sheet-metal it’s wrong.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I presume there is a shifter boot?
Take it off and look and see if the shifter is hitting the body
Couple other quick questions. For the 1965 build date, it should be a 1966 Bronco. That should have an inline shifter, if stock. Just a stick with a ball on top.
If it was swapped out with another slightly newer transfer case it could have a T-shift. That is a T-handle shifter from an automatic transmission of the 60's. Those do have a gate that locks the shifter in position, but when the shifter wears it can also limit travel.

Given that much body lift, contact with the floor is very likely.

 

[okie4570]

On a T shift you should be able to feel each of the stops like in the pic below.

 

[CopperBronco]

I presume there is a shifter boot?
Take it off and look and see if the shifter is hitting the body
Couple other quick questions. For the 1965 build date, it should be a 1966 Bronco. That should have an inline shifter, if stock. Just a stick with a ball on top.
If it was swapped out with another slightly newer transfer case it could have a T-shift. That is a T-handle shifter from an automatic transmission of the 60's. Those do have a gate that locks the shifter in position, but when the shifter wears it can also limit travel.

Given that much body lift, contact with the floor is very likely.

Yea, just a stick with a ball, an updated Duff shifter on it, although dated, but pretty sure a T-shift

 

[CopperBronco]

On a T shift you should be able to feel each of the stops like in the pic below.

View attachment 887203

Thanks! I saw this on another thread and can find 4H and 2H I think, plus neutral and 2H, what’s odd is my shifter doesn’t show 2H, nor do a lot of others, why is this? Do all Dana 20 shifters have 4 gear positions?

 

[CopperBronco]

Can’t give you all the answers, but for sure a 3 inch body lift can, and often does affect the limits of shifting.
If nothing was done to compensate it will almost always allow the shifter to hit the sheet metal before it’s in position. But the only way to know is for you to check it.
Pull the cover up, pull any floor covering up, take a look.
If the shift rod is even touching sheet-metal it’s wrong.

Here’s a photo of it in 2H… definitely very little room to move shifter, but ok wear or signs of rubbing either… I will give the case another good try to see if I can even contact the metal. Otherwise something is broken and it’s driving in 2H in a 4H position… if I can contact metal them maybe time to dremel out some room.

 

[DirtDonk]

Even though the two high to four high shift is fairly short, that doesn’t look like enough room.
I could be wrong but that’s how it looks from here.
Seems like either notching the sheet-metal or notching the shift lever, or both would be the solution.

You can verify shift positions of the transfer case however by manually flipping the two shift rods in place.
Because they are connected to the shift lever in the cab though, you’d probably want to unclip the short rod that runs between the shifter and the plate between the two rods.
You can leave the plate in place and use it to pry on to move the shift rods into the different positions.

Just make sure that when you are under the vehicle the wheels are chocked. I know too many Broncos with poor parking brakes
And you don’t want to be under there with no parking brake when you put the transfer case in neutral!

 

[okie4570]

Thanks! I saw this on another thread and can find 4H and 2H I think, plus neutral and 2H, what’s odd is my shifter doesn’t show 2H, nor do a lot of others, why is this? Do all Dana 20 shifters have 4 gear positions?

To my knowledge 2L never made it on any knobs, because Ford doesn't want it to be used. There's a lube issue iirc if operating in 2L for extended periods of time.

 

[DirtDonk]

Not only that, but it was generally considered a bad idea by most manufacturers to put all that doubled engine torque through only one driveshaft and differential.
Broncos had pretty robust driveshafts and differentials compared to some, but it’s still a lot of load.

 

[CopperBronco]

I presume there is a shifter boot?
Take it off and look and see if the shifter is hitting the body
Couple other quick questions. For the 1965 build date, it should be a 1966 Bronco. That should have an inline shifter, if stock. Just a stick with a ball on top.
If it was swapped out with another slightly newer transfer case it could have a T-shift. That is a T-handle shifter from an automatic transmission of the 60's. Those do have a gate that locks the shifter in position, but when the shifter wears it can also limit travel.

Given that much body lift, contact with the floor is very likely.

Worth adding I do have a 66 Bronco, but 302, and C4 auto dropped in… not sure if that affects how t shifter works. There is no lock on my shifter, just a wooden knob. It’s a Duff aftermarket shifter with lots of love on it.

 

[Oldtimer]

I have the same "Duffy" shifter on my D20 'T' pattern (straight line) transfer case. It will shift into 4L, 2L, N, 2H, & 4H.

* Bought Duffy shifter from James, when shop/store was on Imperial Hwy in SoCal.

 

[CopperBronco]

Let me ask this, is it possible to get shifter into a 4H position, but not engage 4H? I’ve tried to shift up to 2H from this position and it gets in this in between position, drives 10ft and kicks into neutral. Just assuming I’m getting caught between gears though, but thought I’d ask.

 

[CopperBronco]

Here’s a photo from under Bronco tonight, this looks all the way back to me , any other experiences folks? Does this look like 4H or 2H on a D20?

 

[DirtDonk]

Get a picture of the two rods and plate on the other side.

 

[CopperBronco]

Did best I could to get up there, have aux tank and dual exhaust in way.

 

[CopperBronco]

Get a picture of the two rods and plate on the other side.

 

[TDubya]

To my knowledge 2L never made it on any knobs, because Ford doesn't want it to be used. There's a lube issue iirc if operating in 2L for extended periods of time.

I'd like to know if this is true about a lube issue using 2L. I use my 69 w/ T-shift while hunting and leave the hubs locked and put around in 2L until I need 4wd then shift into 4L. I'll stop using 2L if there is a potential to cause damage.

 

[okie4570]

I'd like to know if this is true about a lube issue using 2L. I use my 69 w/ T-shift while hunting and leave the hubs locked and put around in 2L until I need 4wd then shift into 4L. I'll stop using 2L if there is a potential to cause damage.

I do the same thing in my 66's and have for years. Concern was for driving extended periods and just driving around like normal is the way I understood it.

 

[.94 OR]

The outer rod coming from the transfer case does not look like it is completely pulled out. The cross bar should be perpendicular to the shaft. Could be a camera angle but if this is true, the 4H may not be engaged fully.


I also think the 2L position only meshes with half the width of the gear so it makes the teeth vulnerable under heavy throttle use. I use 2L for finesse maneuvers.