Dana 20 set screw bitch!

[bax]

Anyone that takes a dana 20 apart knows that the shift fork set screws can be a real pain! I got all the right tools to do this job but last night these set screws kicked my but. 2 hours to get 2 set screws out! I swear the factory must put lock tight on them. I ended up drilling one of them out and somehow managed to get the rod to come out. Sheer luck. The second one is easier to remove after the pill is out. But I was on the brink of rounding out the inside of the screw. Why are these som bitches so hard to remove. I have had a few that come out pretty easy but most of them really suck. I guess I'm just bitching and wondering if there are any tricks to this that I dont know of?

 

[Yeller]

Do you feel better now?

I know no secrets that would help

 

[bax]

Do you feel better now?

I know no secrets that would help

Yes I do. But they still suck. The real bitch is now I got to go into another case to steal 2 set screws! I dumped the buckets (2) of dana 20 parts and found zero set screws. I dont know where them little F'ers went but I cant find them. I do not know of a source to get these, anyone?

 

[JKH67302]

I am told the reason they are hard to get out was that there was a nylon lock in arms. I was lucky and they seemed to still work on mine. They were difficult to break free and the first few turns were hard, but they came loose. I did not look hard at the screws when they were out, but I don't remember them looking like anything special. I would think they are normal set screws that can be grabbed at the hardware store. Jon from JB Fab helped me on various questions I had when I rebuilt mine. Hit him up and see what he knows.
James

Sent from my SM-S916U using Tapatalk

 

[bax]

They are not normal set screws. They have a cone shape tip on them that matches the cone shaped hole in the shift rod. They fit very tight into the rod. I have looked for any kind of thread locker residue on all the set screws. I see nothing.

 

[Oldtimer]

Can you post a picture of set screw point.

 

[bax]

Here is the set screw used in the shift fork. The cone shape fits into the shift rod to hold it all in position. This is the one I did not drill out. You can see the Alan head is worked pretty good. I dont want to re use it. I stripped the other head out and had to drill it. You need a long drill bit and it will drill a bit on an angle because there is no room to go straight. The goal is to drill the cone off of the set screw. The separated cone stays in the shift rod and the rod will slide out of the fork. If you are F'in lucky. I have never seen replacement set screws for sale, so I will need to tear down another case to get the screws out of it. If anyone knows a source for these screws, post it up please.

 

[Speedrdr]

This may sound silly, but could you take a set screw that was the correct size and length and hot glue it to a straight hex wrench. Chuck it t in a drill and turn the drill on and grind the taper that you need. I’d try that before I broke another D20 apart.

Randy

 

[Soylent]

Maybe check with Jack O’Brien at O’Brien’s 4 Wheel West in Roseville. I just ordered a pair of detent springs from him.

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, they might not be the most common tipped set screw, but a cone tip is not that uncommon really. I’ve seen lots of them over the years.
Luckily, I guess, I’ve never had to actually buy one!
But they must be out there.

Have you already checked the usual sources? Fastenal and Grainger and such?

 

[JKH67302]

Well there ya go, I could not remember what it looked like. Now I remember. I agree with Paul, you should be able to find something close from hardware vendors.

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[hunter1]

Go look for some out of the shift rails for a Massey Ferguson 135 tractor. They have the coned tip and a 7/16” hex head.

 

[hunter1]

 

[blade]

If you can find a machine shop local to you that does small jobs that would be an easy part to make.

 

[blade]

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/s...loy-steel-extra-long-extended-tip-set-screws/

One of these would be easy to modify and make one.

 

[tasker]

POSSIBLILTY there buddy??
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/produc...OoMBqyIuWSJ73luy7GBOrOhucVLlXsuAaAgceEALw_wcB
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1756299855...d=link&campid=5335857059&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

 

[bax]

POSSIBLILTY there buddy??
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/produc...OoMBqyIuWSJ73luy7GBOrOhucVLlXsuAaAgceEALw_wcB
or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1756299855...d=link&campid=5335857059&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

I like the lower link , those could work if the head size is not a problem. Not much room next to that shift fork. Thanks Randy. I do have one more bucket O parts way back in the container

 

[Viperwolf1]

I always loctite those in. I've seen too many that were loose enough to let the fork flop around. A little heat will help getting them out.

I probably have a couple spares I could send you.

 

[bax]

Thanks Phil. I have one more bucket to go thru, we will see how that goes. Your a sick puppy putting locktite on them. I guess if you never had to work on them again it would be just fine. Kind of a sick little joke your playing if you stop and think about it a little.

 

[Viperwolf1]

I found some spares if you need them.