Dana 44 disc front for 76-77

[Crawdad]

Does this internal sleeve or bushing need to come out to be replaced? I’m having a bear of a time removing the old joints with a bearing removal tool too.

 

[Rustytruck]

Thats a preload sleeve that sleeve screws in and needs an OTC 7080 tool to unscrew it and or set the preload. On the ball joint did you remove the snap ring? On thr ball joint tool did you grease the threads and are you using an impact? They are pressed in really tight.

 

[DirtDonk]

Does this internal sleeve or bushing need to come out to be replaced?

As said, yes. Looks like some lube has been used, so with luck it'll just unscrew right out. You can clean and inspect the threads and even install the offset type to adjust camber/caster at this time if you want.
Would have been nice to know what your alignment readings were first though (do you?) to make it easier to decide which way to go.

I’m having a bear of a time removing the old joints with a bearing removal tool too.

As said, look for clips (even the ones that don't matter because they're not limiting movement) and then I use a BFH to remove ball joints. Yes a press is the proper way, but sometimes a good wailing is what is needed to break an old one loose.

Do you have the reinstall torque specifications?

Paul

 

[Crawdad]

On the ball joint did you remove the snap ring? On thr ball joint tool did you grease the threads and are you using an impact? They are pressed in really tight.

I did remove the crusty snap ring. I did not grease the threads on the install press tool. I think it’s really stuck on with years of neglect. I need to make a few adapters for press install tool.

 

[Crawdad]

Does this internal sleeve or bushing need to come out to be replaced?

As said, yes. Looks like some lube has been used, so with luck it'll just unscrew right out. You can clean and inspect the threads and even install the offset type to adjust camber/caster at this time if you want.

Would have been nice to know what your alignment readings were first though (do you?) to make it easier to decide which way to go.
Paul

I bought the 76-77 D44 front end separately so alignment numbers are nonexistent. I do plan to install a 3.5” susp lift, is there a simple plug & play part I can add to allow the susp lift to work better? I do plan to go with the WH steering conversion setup for 76-77. I want to get away from the Y steering when done.

 

[Crawdad]

As said, look for clips (even the ones that don't matter because they're not limiting movement) and then I use a BFH to remove ball joints. Yes a press is the proper way, but sometimes a good wailing is what is needed to break an old one loose.

Do you have the reinstall torque specifications?
Paul

Paul,
As instructed I took a 5lb short hammer and gave it a few whacks. Sure enough it budged and popped off with ease after about 7 more whacks. Used my press and got the other one out now that the other ball joint was out of the way.

What reinstall torque spec do you speak of? I was gonna get some Mogul ball joints and press back in just enough to put the clip back on.

 

[Glass Pony]

Thx Paul,
This is a pic of where I left off last night after tucking the kiddos in for bed. I figure if I knock in the inner bolts that it would pop off but that didn't happen. Thx for the directions. I'll update once I get both sides broken down. Thx again!
Matt

A spindle puller works best but feel/look around the circumference of the flange of the spindle, it should have an area where you can get a wedge started to break it loose. And as always, use plenty of penetrating oil.

OOps! Didn't see your last post. Glad you got it off.

 

[DirtDonk]

Here's the version of a spindle puller like Glass Pony was talking about that we sell: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Spindle-Removal-Tool/More_Tools
I'm sure there are others as well. I've been lucky and not had to utilize one on my own, but certainly have on others!

I bought the 76-77 D44 front end separately so alignment numbers are nonexistent.

Oh well. But the good news is that many of the axles of that vintage already have good caster numbers built in to them.
The bad news then is that just automatically adding the 7 degree C-bushings is not needed.
The other good news is that, in most cases, you don't have to worry about your pinion angle being too extreme.
But time will tell...

I do plan to install a 3.5” susp lift, is there a simple plug & play part I can add to allow the susp lift to work better?

Not sure what you mean. What are you looking for? The axle itself is a direct bolt-in to any year EB, so that part is good.
C-bushings can be a question, but nothing wrong with going all the way to 7° in 90% of the installs if you want even more caster. If in doubt, you can stick with 4's initially, but personally since you're going to have power steering (correct?) you can start with 7's and see how things line up from there.

I do plan to go with the WH steering conversion setup for 76-77. I want to get away from the Y steering when done.

What year is your frame? If pre-'76 which it sounds like, then you will still need both a dropped pitman arm and a dropped trackbar bracket for your 3.5" lift.
If you are contemplating using the linkage in a TRO arrangement, that geometry will change and we'll have to run that down in more detail later.

What reinstall torque spec do you speak of? I was gonna get some Mogul ball joints and press back in just enough to put the clip back on.

The press-in and clip part is fine. Just do as you would think.
The torque specs I was referring to are those for the 2 nuts, the threaded ball joint collar and the "pull weight" of the assembled knuckle.
The reassembly is specific, but I don't have my book in front of me at the moment.
But if memory serves, it goes like this:

1. Lower ball-joint nut torqued to 70-90 lbs.
2. Upper ball-joint collar torqued to 40 lbs.
3. Upper ball-joint nut torqued to 100 lbs to align cotter pin hole.
4. Measured pressure to pivot knuckle between 10 and 18 lbs.

Do NOT use those specs until someone pops in to confirm or correct those numbers though. I'm pretty sure they're close, but without the book I won't trust my memory. We just discussed this a month or two ago so there should be some threads with exact numbers posted.
(edit: Corrected values per the shop manual posted by Chuck below)

Paul

 

[chuck]

Paul-all I just checked my 1976 ford shop manual, on page 15-30-5 I find the numbers as follows. lower nut= 70-90 ft lbs. adjuster sleeve 40 ft lbs and the upper nut 100. go a little tighter if castle does not align, do not loosen.
PS if the spring scale exceeds 26 lbs to turn the knuckle replace the ball joints.

 

[Crawdad]

Paul-all I just checked my 1976 ford shop manual, on page 15-30-5 I find the numbers as follows. lower nut= 70-90 ft lbs. adjuster sleeve 40 ft lbs and the upper nut 100. go a little tighter if castle does not align, do not loosen.
PS if the spring scale exceeds 26 lbs to turn the knuckle replace the ball joints.

Chuck and Paul, I have a 76-77 Dana 44 just so you know the year. I’m rebuilding this to go on a 77 frame. I was able to remove the ball joints on one side. Now I will be purchasing new ball joints in the coming weeks. I really appreciate the torque specs. Chuck, what do you mean by “spring scale exceeds 26 lbs to turn knuckle”? Thx again guys!
Matt

 

[DirtDonk]

That's the "pull scale" I was referring to earlier (or maybe that was another thread?). You might know it as a "fish scale" too, but either way it's a weight scale with a hook or handle on one end to hold or anchor to a solid surface, with a chain and hook for connecting whatever you're weighing with it.

In the case of using it on a front knuckle, you hook one end in the hole for the tie-rod and pull by hand with the other end. It should not be so loose as to not register on the scale, but it should not exceed the 26lbs mentioned.

I'll go back and correct my numbers to reflect the shop manual numbers Chuck posted.

Paul

 

[Crawdad]

Thats a preload sleeve that sleeve screws in and needs an OTC 7080 tool to unscrew it and or set the preload. On the ball joint did you remove the snap ring? On thr ball joint tool did you grease the threads and are you using an impact? They are pressed in really tight.

I played a bit on the 44 this past weekend and using a flathead screwdriver this preload sleeve comes out pretty easy. I left it place as it may be already set to the correct depth. I got new upper and lower ball joints and the JBG kit didn’t come with new preload sleeves so I guess I need to keep the ones I have.

 

[Crawdad]

Cleaning inside axle tube

Managed to remove both knuckles and caliper brackets off the 44 a few weeks ago. A super cool guy named ChuckyB allowed me to add a few bronco parts to his stash of parts going to a zinc coater. Those four pieces along with the antisway bar hardware, u-bolts and rr spring plates should look pretty nice.
But for now I’m wanting to tackle the inside axle tube. It is orange and rusty in color. I’m thinking of purchasing a flexible hone to get up in the tube. It may not get all the trash out of there but it sure would make me feel better. Afterwards clean it up really well and add some brand rust converter and move on. Flex Hone seems to be the brand I’m choosing from Amazon. I measure the inside dia of my tube to be 2.5” so would that same size be sufficient or do think I need to bump up to 2 9/16”?

 

[Crawdad]

Took a long lunch today at home and jumped on the 44. Took pics of both ends. One looks to needs good cleaning, other side has a coating of rust and Georgia red clay. Not much of any fluid came out so I wonder if one side needs a new seal, might as well do both sides then. No bits or pieces of metal so that’s a good sign. No sign of wear or chips on the gears either. IMO it looks and turns really well.

 

[DirtDonk]

Hey, just replied to the other thread you posted up to. I see you're already far enough along.
I always hated all that crap that collects in an axle tube. Wanted the outer seals that the old 30's and the Jeep 44's had, but never wanted to go to the trouble. Just tried flushing out the tubes after a particularly dirty season.
Would have been a good idea if I'd thought of coating the inside with something that flows good and it tough, like POR-15 or something similar.

Now's your chance!;D

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

The ball-hone is a great idea! I'd always used oddball around-the-house stuff, but never even thought about those.
Might not be as effective as we could hope, but worth a try totally.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[Rustytruck]

I would use one of these. you can extend it with a piece of pipe. comes in lots of sizes.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#7230t21/=1ckynv0

 

[Crawdad]

I decided to go with the Flex-Hone in a 2-1/8” diameter. I bought it late Monday and got it yesterday. I have Drill this weekend so I will fab up a longer extention as this one is only about 8” long. I dove into one of the tubes using Simple Green and it was doing a great job imo. I won’t really know till I can up an extention but so far I like the results. I went back today to take pic and you can see flash rust has already occurred.

I plan to take the carrier out before I go too much further. I knocked in some divits so that I won’t get them mixed up, see cicles. Next I’ll pull out the old seals and then carry out additional cleaning inside the tubes. KBS has a small 3-step degreaser/ cleaner / gloss paint for $23 on Amazon, but I also saw a one step Eastwood cavity coater from a spray can for $35.

 

[Crawdad]

Extended handle complete!

 

[DirtDonk]

Nice. Going to slather some Hoppe's #9 in there first?;D

Paul