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Dash Cluster Lights not working

COSCAG00

Sr. Member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
426
My lights in my cluster don't work, I think its a power issue and not ground. The high beam and blinkers work fine but not the backlight lights It appears that power is not getting to them

My question is what is the path for the power to them? From what I can tell power starts at the light switch then goes to the fuse box then to the light sockets on the cluster? The wire that provides power is the blue with red strip. Am I correct in this thinking?
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,341
You are correct. Sometimes the fuse clips get rusted and don't pass current. Sometimes the rheostat in the headlight switch goes bad.
 
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COSCAG00

Sr. Member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
426
I think I have a loose wire honestly. I was jacking around with them and they flickered for a few seconds. Just trying to get the right way power flows so I can start at the beginning and follow the trail.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,235
How do you think your grounds are good? Most Broncos suffer from lack-o-grounds, so it's still a possibility.
Especially after your description of the flickering.

Some things that can cause the flickering:

1. Loose sockets. At this age, they're probably not all getting a good connection to the bulb.
2. Lousy grounds. All of them ground through the little steel tabs around the circumference of the socket, to the cluster housing. Strike two there!
3. Loose wire connections somewhere. Again, usually at the sockets.

Oh, and did I mention a lousy ground scheme?
First, the truck is however old it is (Add what year it is to your signature area so we can see. It can make the difference sometimes) and all the bonding between metal components is sketchy at best by now. And the dash is a classic EB bad connection waiting to happen.
The lights ground through the cluster. The cluster grounds through the screws to the dash. The dash grounds through the bolts to the body. And by now they're ALL rusty.
The body is supposed to ground directly the the battery. It often doesn't and then you're stuck trying to pass current through your engine mounts and radiator. Not optimal by any means.
Even when there is a good ground wire from the battery to the body, it's usually to the wheel housing. Which might no longer be well connected to the rest of the body, depending on rust levels again.

So, when you say the grounds are good, did you verify all of the above?
If so, you're on your own buddy!
Just kidding. You're never on your own here. Just keep digging. I forgot to mention the connection at the switch itself. Viper mentioned the rusty fuse contacts, but sometimes rust AND heat will damage/loosen the contacts right at the switch connector itself.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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COSCAG00

Sr. Member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
426
If my ground was bad on the cluster then the turn signals and high beam light would not work correct? That was my reasoning on the ground being good.

Also if I apply power to the fuse block that has the instrument cluster on it the lights light up. So my issue is power getting to the lights.

Will keep tracking things down, man I hate electrical. My next upgrade is a new harness!
 
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COSCAG00

Sr. Member
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
426
Sorry it's a 1967. I will update the info this evening when a get back to a computer.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,235
If my ground was bad on the cluster then the turn signals and high beam light would not work correct? That was my reasoning on the ground being good.

Absolutely. Very reasonable reasoning.
You said that in your first post and I forgot that fast. I'm fixated on grounds these days.


Also if I apply power to the fuse block that has the instrument cluster on it the lights light up. So my issue is power getting to the lights.

That makes it sound more like something at the switch, or the wire between the switch and the fuse block. The switches themselves fail fairly regularly, but with your wiggling test, it sounds more like the connector at the switch or the fuse block.
Do you remember just where you were wiggling things when they would come on? If near the switch, pull the harness connector and see if anything is loose or burned.
And frankly, switches aren't that expensive. So if you still can't find the exact culprit through testing, it's not a deal-breaker to try a new one.
It's one of those things where, even if it's not the problem, having a spare won't kill you.
Not as handy as having a spare starter relay maybe, but still up there pretty good.

Good luck. For someone that hates wiring, you're hitting it pretty logically and following things down.

Paul
 

jw0747

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 22, 2006
Messages
2,434
Loc.
San Antonio, TX
not certain about your application but mine has a connector near the driver's side rear corner that gave me fits. it connects the wires from the front to all the rear light wires.
 
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