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Disc conversion help

daren

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
80
Need some input. Having issues with front brakes dragging after installing front disc conversion from one of the vendors. I ground down the knuckle so the caliper slides and doesn't make contact. The hub spins fine with no pads. I tried cracking the bleeder to make sure it wasn't a pressure holding issue. And made sure to grease the pins. Both left and right side are the same. Tried driving it last night to see if it would get better after bedding in the brakes and it didn't make a difference and the wheels were even getting warm to the touch. Need some help since they are closed and won't be able to call till Tuesday


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DJs74

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 1, 2014
Messages
1,135
Did you install a proportioning valve, my kit from Bronco Graveyard came with a new valve


DJs74
 
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daren

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
80
whoops left some info out. nope did not install a proportioning valve still the stock junction block. Still has a drum/drum master cylinder. Did not install a booster or anything. I have seen the threads about the check valve but I poked in there will a paperclip and didn't feel anything in there. Plus figured loosening the bleeder would take the pressure issue out of the equation. I am at the loss since the caliper slides fine
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,342
What are you using for a master cylinder? Drum brake masters have a residual pressure valve inside the port. You can remove it and it would work with the disks.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,342
whoops left some info out. nope did not install a proportioning valve still the stock junction block. Still has a drum/drum master cylinder. Did not install a booster or anything. I have seen the threads about the check valve but I poked in there will a paperclip and didn't feel anything in there. Plus figured loosening the bleeder would take the pressure issue out of the equation. I am at the loss since the caliper slides fine

You need to pull the seat from the front brake port in the master. Under it will be rubber valve and spring. Remove those parts and re-install the seat.
 
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daren

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
80
Pulled seat out and no check valve or spring. Even with the line loose at master cylinder pads still drag.


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daren

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
80
When I crack the bleeder at both calipers they still drag. These drag the full rotation of the hub. Usually when I have done brakes on my other cars they only maybe touch in one spot and it is very faint.


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Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,342
The caliper pistons may be sticky with assembly grease. There is nothing inside the distribution block to restrict flow. You may have to just use it to get it worked loose. They are not going to turn as freely as drum brakes.
 
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daren

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
80
Okay Ill just drive it and wait for the calipers to work loose. Just needed another opinion and I was starting to overthink it. thanks
 

Tomcat2

Newbie
Joined
Dec 7, 2015
Messages
30
Define drag. ( Here come the jokes) Sounds of slight pad/rotor contact? Or major resistance when trying to turn front wheels by hand?
 
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daren

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
80
It's more than slight pad contact. There is quite a bit of resistance when turning by hand. If I have a wheel on and spin and let go the wheel only goes about 3/4 turn.
When I first put the calipers on and the piston is pushed in all the way it spins fine. But as soon as you step on the brake pedal and let off that is when the drag/ or resistance starts to happen.


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Tiko433

Contributor
I know just enough to be dangerous
Joined
Jul 9, 2014
Messages
1,858
Loc.
South West Florida
When I did mine , I did front disc kit and power vac booster at the same time . As soon as I went to test it . My front brakes were dragging. The push rod that goes between the booster and MC . There is a adjustment on the one of the ends of the rod but it was still a lil too long . It must be engaging the MC just enough to activate the brakes . I cut a little bit off the end of the rod. It fixed the problem
May be something for you to check
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,489
That's usually my first thought as well, but since he says that it doesn't change when opening the bleeders, it's likely not residual pressure from either a check valve (which he doesn't have) or a misadjusted rod. Of course, those pesky rod adjustments cause all types of harm, it just doesn't sound like the case here.

In fact, it doesn't really sound like brake drag to me. Sounds normal for older design disc setups.
And a wheel that's getting warm is not a warning of anything. Only a wheel that's hot is a sign of something maybe worth looking at. But only "maybe" as normal hard braking can make a wheel hot as well.
As can an improperly adjusted wheel bearing.

But warm is the norm.
If you can turn the hub and rotor by hand without the tire and wheel mounted up, it's not dragging very much. That 3/4 turn movement is also not out of line. Sure, it's not truly free-floating, but these calipers don't fully release like modern calipers purport to.
My Ford disc setup can sometimes leave the hubs and wheels cool to the touch after a drive, but often enough there's a little residual warmth in them as well. Never hot like some, but certainly warm. Don't know if the Ford calipers are expected to have the more, or less, or the same amount of drag as the GM style, but I do hear them rub slightly. Can't remember how much the tire rotates after letting go, but I bet it's not much different.
And like was said, maybe they'll still wear in a little after some use.

I'm not trying to talk you out of being cautious and keeping an eye on things. Just trying to say that what you're describing is not really off base for what I would expect.
Maybe others have different experiences, but that's my opinion anyway.

Paul
 
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daren

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
80
Yea sounds like I'm being over cautious. I'm am used to our newer cars were there is very minimal pad rub. It just threw me off guard with how difficult it was to turn and being able to hear the pads/rotor rubbing when we were driving by the fences in our neighborhood.
But perfect timing now I can throw it back together and be able to get the wife and kids in it for fireworks tonight


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daren

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
80
Thanks for all the help everybody and happy 4th!


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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,489
Well, if you can actually hear the pads dragging while you're driving, I may take back everything I said!!!
You sure it's the pads and not something else you're hearing?
Semi-metallic pads by any chance?
Something else dragging, like a backing plate on a wheel?

Like I mentioned, you should be able to easily turn it by hand if the tire is giving you leverage, but will often at least feel a tiny bit of drag if you're trying to turn just the hub and rotor.

But hear it while driving? Uh, not so much...

Good luck.

paul
 
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daren

Jr. Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2010
Messages
80
On the drive out last night we were able to hear it. On the drive back we couldn't. I drove it again today and couldn't hear them rubbing. The noise is definitely from the pads. When I got home I jacked it up and tried spinning the wheels and they do spin easier now. Maybe it's like viper wolf said with the assembly grease.The pads are semi- metallic pads. It's not backing plate rubbing on the wheel since I didn't see a wear line on the inside of the rim. I was gonna call the vendor I got them from today but didn't get a chance to.


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