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Does ANYONE make an adapter/sleeve to use a Ford steering wheel on a GM column?

eBronc2

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Jan 10, 2015
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Seems like all the aftermarket tilt column manufacturers only offer columns that have the GM splined shafts - sure you can use an aftermarket wheel and adapter, but is there ANYONE that produces an adapter/sleeve/etc that will fit over the GM splines on the shaft and have Ford splines on the outer diameter so a Ford wheel will fit it? Seems like a pretty easy part to make, unless I'm missing something obvious (it's possible, I don't have a GM steering column shaft to measure).

There are a lot of Ford owners who want to use a Ford wheel and have a tilt column....
 

Shimmy

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1977 Bronco
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I dont think i understand what you're asking. IDIDIT is a direct fit to our upper shaft and steering wheel.
 

DirtDonk

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What’s the actual difference? Is the Ford a three-quarter by 36? Seems like it’s necked down a bit at the steering wheel, but I don’t know for sure.
What is the GM set up?
If there’s not much difference, it might be harder to make it adapter than you might think.
Cutting or broaching on an extra thin piece of material might not leave enough strength at a very critical junction.
A lot of companies wouldn’t want to be involved in that kind of an adapter.
Then again, I know there are companies that do make steering parts, but an adapter is maybe a different animal?
Don’t know. But now I’m curious what the actual dimensions are on each type.
 

Yeller

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As @Shimmy said ididit makes the proper column.

The issue is space. There is not enough real estate for an adapter, it would add a minimum of 2-1/2” to the length of the steering wheel. Not to mention be a complicated endeavor.
 

Broncobowsher

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Messages
35,316
That would not be an easy adaptor to make. The female splines that match GM is easy, normal aftermarket steering wheel adaptor does this all day long. But to get from there to a male ford shaft, stuff starts stacking up. As mentioned, it would be a deep adaptor.

On top of all that, pretty sure the column diameters are different as well. Where the Ford wheel matches a Ford column, the GM columns are larger in diameter if I am thinking of the right column comparison.

What Ford wheel are you trying to keep? There are some factory styled wheels aftermarket that will go on GM columns.
Ford did make a tilt column that work. You don't have to use a GM column.
 

DirtDonk

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I guess I missed something in the original post. I was fixated on the adapter, but you say that you don’t have a column yet to measure. So why are you wanting to do a GM column?
Save money? Undoubtedly the generic GM columns are cheaper from the manufacturers, but as already mentioned direct-fit Bronco columns already exist.
We’ve been selling them for probably 10 years now. Or close to that anyway.
Unless your Ford steering wheel is something that has a different bell diameter than the Bronco?

Curious also, as the details of your wheel swap desire.
 

jamesroney

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Sep 11, 2007
Messages
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Loc.
Fremont, CA
What’s the actual difference? Is the Ford a three-quarter by 36? Seems like it’s necked down a bit at the steering wheel, but I don’t know for sure.
What is the GM set up?
If there’s not much difference, it might be harder to make it adapter than you might think.
Cutting or broaching on an extra thin piece of material might not leave enough strength at a very critical junction.
A lot of companies wouldn’t want to be involved in that kind of an adapter.
Then again, I know there are companies that do make steering parts, but an adapter is maybe a different animal?
Don’t know. But now I’m curious what the actual dimensions are on each type.
Ford = 3/4 x 36.
GM = Jeep = 11/16 x 36

There is not enough difference. It is harder to make an adapter than you think. More like impossible.
No one in their right mind wants anything to do with it.
It is silly to make an adapter, (which looks like 22ga tin foil) when you can simply use compatible components.

The GM tilt column is an engineering marvel, and is generally considered to be the biggest pile of shit that was ever installed in a motor vehicle. The first implementation resulted in countless vehicle thefts, and created a whole generation of column collars and add on devices. In the 80's, you could defeat the ignition lock within seconds. As is typical for GM products, it only took 10 years to eventually "fix" the issue, and once the column was marginally acceptable, GM stopped production. (yeah, they do that ALL the time...)

But 10 years of creating garbage resulted in the aftermarket adopting the garbage, and calling it "great." So the very same GM tilt column that was intentionally removed from nearly every Jeep YJ and XJ because it won't stay in position, it can't handle any force, it is impossible for humans to rebuild, and it is easily stolen became the de-facto standard ...because they were basically FREE, and the were in EVERYTHING. They were so ubiquitously BAD that IDIDIT and Flaming River made a fortune replacing them. Fast forward 40 years, and they are magically "awesome." Of course the ignition lock has been defeated, the wheel lock is defeated, the shift to park cable is gone, the pivot pins upgraded, and the Cruise Control / turn signal stalk upgraded.

I spend much of my restoration time taking those crap columns OUT of Jeeps. (fun fact, the Cherokee XJ the YJ, and the S10 are NOT exactly the same...) And the 74-77 Ford column with roller bearings is vastly better in all regards.

They say that if you can't say something nice, then you shouldn't say anything at...
 

toddz69

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The GM tilt column is an engineering marvel, and is generally considered to be the biggest pile of shit that was ever installed in a motor vehicle. The first implementation resulted in countless vehicle thefts, and created a whole generation of column collars and add on devices. In the 80's, you could defeat the ignition lock within seconds. As is typical for GM products, it only took 10 years to eventually "fix" the issue, and once the column was marginally acceptable, GM stopped production. (yeah, they do that ALL the time...)

But 10 years of creating garbage resulted in the aftermarket adopting the garbage, and calling it "great." So the very same GM tilt column that was intentionally removed from nearly every Jeep YJ and XJ because it won't stay in position, it can't handle any force, it is impossible for humans to rebuild, and it is easily stolen became the de-facto standard ...because they were basically FREE, and the were in EVERYTHING. They were so ubiquitously BAD that IDIDIT and Flaming River made a fortune replacing them. Fast forward 40 years, and they are magically "awesome." Of course the ignition lock has been defeated, the wheel lock is defeated, the shift to park cable is gone, the pivot pins upgraded, and the Cruise Control / turn signal stalk upgraded.

I spend much of my restoration time taking those crap columns OUT of Jeeps. (fun fact, the Cherokee XJ the YJ, and the S10 are NOT exactly the same...) And the 74-77 Ford column with roller bearings is vastly better in all regards.

They say that if you can't say something nice, then you shouldn't say anything at...
So what do you install to replace all those columns in XJs/YJs, etc. that are bad? It sounds most of the bad stuff that you mentioned as been removed from the version I use - no ignition switch on the column, no wheel lock, no shifting mechanism, etc. I had one go bad about 10 years ago when a bearing went bad in it and it made a terrible noise. Flaming River sold me a new column for $100 since they said it was outdated and couldn't be repaired. And the turn signal switch went bad a few years ago and that was a real treat to change. OTOH, the pivots seem to be pretty tight compared to the 78-79 Ford tilt column I used for years. And I certainly don't miss changing those broken Ford turn signal cams every few years...

Todd Z.
 

jamesroney

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Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
1,893
Loc.
Fremont, CA
So what do you install to replace all those columns in XJs/YJs, etc. that are bad? It sounds most of the bad stuff that you mentioned as been removed from the version I use - no ignition switch on the column, no wheel lock, no shifting mechanism, etc. I had one go bad about 10 years ago when a bearing went bad in it and it made a terrible noise. Flaming River sold me a new column for $100 since they said it was outdated and couldn't be repaired. And the turn signal switch went bad a few years ago and that was a real treat to change. OTOH, the pivots seem to be pretty tight compared to the 78-79 Ford tilt column I used for years. And I certainly don't miss changing those broken Ford turn signal cams every few years...

Todd Z.
1. Delete tilt.
2. Defeat steering lock plate by removing ignition cylinder pin rack. Inform customers to remove the 50 unused keys, and iron fobs, and 10 lbs of junk off their keychain.
3. Tell customer that the steering wheel is NOT a grab bar for climbing.
4. Recommend that my customer get some exercise and lose the gut. (This never goes well…)

I’ve never found a case where the Bronco column isn’t just about perfect where it is. I once installed a tilt column, and ran it exactly straight. (After playing with it for about a week). It’s kind of a gimmick. Like adjustable pedals, and power seats. I only use that stuff for about a week. Once it’s where I like it…I usually forget I even have it.

I will concede that the Ford turn signal cancel mechanism is absurdly inadequate.
 
OP
OP
eBronc2

eBronc2

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I have my original '71 Bronco steering column, and a '77 steering wheel that fits it perfectly and looks great. However, with the seats I'd like to use, the seating position is raised a bit, to where my knees are almost up against the bottom of the steering wheel. I've already lowered the seat as much as possible. I figured an aftermarket tilt column would solve the problem, but they all seem to be GM type and shaft spline on the top end. Hence, the question.

I can deal with driving with the location of the steering wheel where the stock column puts it, it's getting in and out of the seat that is an exercise in contortion - exacerbated by the height of the door sill from the ground (35" tires, suspension + body lift). Plus, I'm not getting any younger, slimmer, or more flexible as the years go passing by.
 

toddz69

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I have my original '71 Bronco steering column, and a '77 steering wheel that fits it perfectly and looks great. However, with the seats I'd like to use, the seating position is raised a bit, to where my knees are almost up against the bottom of the steering wheel. I've already lowered the seat as much as possible. I figured an aftermarket tilt column would solve the problem, but they all seem to be GM type and shaft spline on the top end. Hence, the question.

I can deal with driving with the location of the steering wheel where the stock column puts it, it's getting in and out of the seat that is an exercise in contortion - exacerbated by the height of the door sill from the ground (35" tires, suspension + body lift). Plus, I'm not getting any younger, slimmer, or more flexible as the years go passing by.
If you're using a '77 steering wheel, then this column should work just fine:

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/ididi...irect-fit-tilt-automatic-steering-column-bare

Todd Z.
 

Jonathan_Cole

Newbie
Joined
May 11, 2020
Messages
146
Just a word of advice. Dump the idea of the GM column. Are they cheaper? Sure. But you'll find enough headaches that you would have wished you just bought what you needed.

My father in law put a GM column in his 56 f100. He didn't want to drill a hole in the dash for an ignition switch on a truck that's not all original anyway.

So, he used a GM keyed column. The shifter dial doesn't line up and the wiring was a pain.

Just get a bronco column.
 

tbratz

Jr. Member
Joined
May 29, 2006
Messages
131
I used a Flaming River column and it too is splined for a GM wheel. Using a common spacer that comes with most of these columns to mount an after market wheel, I made an adapter to mount my '69 factory wheel to the column. I took a plate and cut it to the diameter of the column (adapter) and drilled the six small holes that an after market wheel would screw too. I then cut enough off my factory steering column where the splines are an the wheel mounts and welded it to the center of the plate. My factory wheel them mounts directly to that. It was easy to fabricate, solid and looks good.
 
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