Door seal escapades....

[bigmuddy]

Some of the old Amazon links are broken so I’m posting this. It’s the rubber bulb I used around the window frames on the doors.

http://[URL]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MM5Q5W5/?tag=cbama-20

[/URL]

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Thanks buddy! just ordered what I needed!!

 

[broncobuddha]

Some of the old Amazon links are broken so I’m posting this. It’s the rubber bulb I used around the window frames on the doors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MM5Q5W5/?tag=cbama-20

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks. I think I understand what you did for the bottoms now. Did you consider maybe using the peel and stick stuff that you used in the door frames for the bottom portion instead of trimming?

Wondering if it would work. Maybe the thickness is too different.

Also, 15 ft did both doors top and bottom or both doors upper part only?

Sorry one more question did you have to heat gun at all or just press and go?


Thanks!

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[MonsterBIlly]

For those of you who are tired of messing with upper door seals and glue, this stuff fits great and you just push it on over the flange.

I’m still fine tuning and trimming but it’s much easier than messing with glue. It hides your old glue residue and has that nice woven texture on the inside edge.

It should work on the bottom as well if you fillet the clip on part off. All you need is a sharp knife and a cold beer.....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NDR2B5O/?tag=cbama-20

Thanks man. Great idea. Im gonns give it a shot

 

[Slowleak]

Thanks. I think I understand what you did for the bottoms now. Did you consider maybe using the peel and stick stuff that you used in the door frames for the bottom portion instead of trimming?

Wondering if it would work. Maybe the thickness is too different.

Also, 15 ft did both doors top and bottom or both doors upper part only?

Sorry one more question did you have to heat gun at all or just press and go?


Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

It’s not thick enough for the bottom and the other stuff is perfect. It’s nice to keep the lowers as one piece and the stuff is easy to cut. I didn’t use a heat gun anywhere. It just clips on the metal flange like it was made for it. 15ft will do one complete door or both door upper sections, with a few feet left. You might measure to see if 33ft would do both doors and the liftgate.

 

[broncobuddha]

It’s not thick enough for the bottom and the other stuff is perfect. It’s nice to keep the lowers as one piece and the stuff is easy to cut. I didn’t use a heat gun anywhere. It just clips on the metal flange like it was made for it. 15ft will do one complete door or both door upper sections, with a few feet left. You might measure to see if 33ft would do both doors and the liftgate.

Excellent, thanks. Can't wait to try this!

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[broncobuddha]

So I tried this. Mine isn't as pretty as yours. No miter corner precision but the stuff works really well. Got 33 feet of the primary stuff and did both windshield to door pieces, both upper doors (attached to the top) , the liftgate hoop and one lower (didn't have enough to do the 2nd door lower part.

I had some issues cutting the channel part off for the door sill section and I measured wrong and that section is a little long. I suppose I could cut it off, shorten it and then glue it with weatherstripping adhesive.

In any event since it's cheap I'm going to order 15 more feet.

When cutting, I found the best way is to cut right behind where the metal reinforcements are and it will almost peel off as you go. I had a couple areas where I cut into the bulb which I gather will render that useless lol.

Still a great project.

 

[Slowleak]

Good deal! The nice thing about this stuff is that it’s cheap, and not glued. You can mess up and redo it as opposed to just messing up….

 

[Howard2x4x4]

Nice looking houndstooth uph you got there

Yeah, what ^ he said! Tasty, very tasty!

 

[BradinEDH]

Thanks Slowleak! I installed new door seals yesterday. This solved the 4 year search for seals and to have the doors actually close. I used my existing ends off of my seals that did not work and used the new amazon seal with windlace for the bottoms. I was able to peal the seal off the windlace as you described and added in the clips to hold it on while glueing it all in. Doors close and seal right up. Looks great too. Thanks for the great tip. Much appreciated. Brad

 

[Slowleak]

Thanks Slowleak! I installed new door seals yesterday. This solved the 4 year search for seals and to have the doors actually close. I used my existing ends off of my seals that did not work and used the new amazon seal with windlace for the bottoms. I was able to peal the seal off the windlace as you described and added in the clips to hold it on while glueing it all in. Doors close and seal right up. Looks great too. Thanks for the great tip. Much appreciated. Brad

Glad it worked out. It looks great!

 

[broncobuddha]

You guys and your perfect non bashed in rockers, lol.

Mine was a touch different as my rockers are bashed in and the door sills are slightly affected. Yet, still a great trick.

Slowleak do you have any other close ups of the peel and stick on the doors? (I've already had some delivered) I just was trying to see where you had it.

Also, did you use any of it on the very bottom of the door? Meaning it would meet up with where the lower seal is on the body when you shut the door. Or did you just do around the window frame?

 

[Slowleak]

You guys and your perfect non bashed in rockers, lol.

Mine was a touch different as my rockers are bashed in and the door sills are slightly affected. Yet, still a great trick.

Slowleak do you have any other close ups of the peel and stick on the doors? (I've already had some delivered) I just was trying to see where you had it.

Also, did you use any of it on the very bottom of the door? Meaning it would meet up with where the lower seal is on the body when you shut the door. Or did you just do around the window frame?

I just used it around the window frame. It seals up against the upper door seal.

 

[matts460]

Great thread! I ordered some too, cant wait to get it installed. Seems like on mine the whistle noise I have is from the LMC rubber on side's of windshield frame is not fully touching the upper door frame. And of course the rubber around the lower doors is to big/stiff and have to slam my doors shut. Yet the upper door rubber fits to loose! If anybody ever makes correct door rubbers for early Bronco's will probably be very rich! Best idea would be to make a hybrid of this new style and the o.g. rubber, eliminating the need for glue!

 

[matts460]

Also want to add, anybody with Bump side or dent side Ford trucks could use this clip on rubber too!

 

[DirtDonk]

And of course the rubber around the lower doors is to big/stiff and have to slam my doors shut. Yet the upper door rubber fits to loose! If anybody ever makes correct door rubbers for early Bronco's will probably be very rich! Best idea would be to make a hybrid of this new style and the o.g. rubber, eliminating the need for glue!

Or at least they’ll be very popular! I agree about the hybrid set up, but it’s not just a simple as that either.
It’s not just the rubber seals that are at fault here. It’s the bronco bodies themselves.
Sometimes it’s age, or very often, it’s changes in adjustment during a restoration or simple door removal for the summer. But as often is not its inconsistencies from Ford!
I have two broncos of fairly close vintage (68 and 71) and both fit differently, especially at the front upper corner where the base of the windshield frame meets the A-pillar/meets the upper door corner near the vent window.
Neither fits the same.

You’d almost have to make the gaskets easy to slice and shape.

 

[Jeff10]

Hey Everyone,

One of the remaining improvements for the '70 is the door rubbers.

About 10 years ago I purchased rubbers recommended by another member here. They were temporarily installed about a year ago. Like others have said, they provide almost too much seal, and the doors are harder to close. (And they fall off the flanges, so I intend to use some 3M adhesive when I rework them.)

The question I have is about door fit, with the doors not being flush with the front fenders and rear quarters and the rockers. I have several people try to work with the fit of the door and the front fenders and the doors with limited success. Even replaced one of the rockers. I suppose the fit isn't bad; but, it's not as close as I would like.

I have a couple of questions about the flanges that the rubbers fit onto.

1. Would it be good to remove the paint from the flanges before attaching the weatherstrip with adhesive. I read that on another forum. I'm not a big fan of removing paint from body metal. (One of the benefits, though, is that the flanges were coated with bedliner material when the truck was painted. So, the flanges have even greater thickness.)

2. I don't believe that either shop attempted to adjust the flange inboard that the rubbers fit onto to give the door rubbers more space between the flange and the door. Is this ever done by experienced body guys? Or, should I just try the heat gun approach once the rubbers are installed to let the rubbers conform to the door? Not trying to open Pandora's box... just improve things if possible.

Thanks for any advice.

Jeff

 

[Slowleak]

Jeff, I don’t know how long yours were installed but it can many months for the reproduction seals to compress and conform enough to make a difference in fit.
I would not remove any paint. There is a lot of excess rubber that can be moved from the inside of the seals to make them more pliable. It’s a process of just finding the right spot to trim. If you install one section, top or bottom, and work with it, it makes it easier to find the obstruction.
Sometimes the flanges are bent out at the front of the door where the door strap presses on them. That’s an easy fix.
Since you already have seals you might fit them loosely with spots of glue, try the above tips, and see if they get better. I just wanted better looking and better sealing seals so I made my own…..

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Slowleak,

Thanks for your reply.

I figure once I start the process it will be more finesse work than thing else.

I really don't like the idea of removing paint.

I appreciate the help.

Jeff

 

[DirtDonk]

Just make sure you adjust the doors fully before installing the seals.
And if the seals are that stiff, get some that are not. Or follow Slowleak’s discussion about putting your own custom weatherstripping in.
Maybe (Slowleak can provide a link) if you haven’t already followed along.

And if any of the door adjustments are biased to the inward position, readjust until they are either flush with the rest of the body, or even biased a little outwards.
Pushing them inwards simply makes the seals tighter, and the doors harder to close.

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for your help.

I have had everything adjusted at least twice. I've been told that it's as good as it's going to get.

There was a link to the seals that Slowleak recommended. The ones that I have now came highly recommended by another forum member.

I hope to work with these in the next few days.

Take Care,

Jeff