Door Skin Crack At Latch Screw Countersink

[RonJones]

My ‘73 developed this crack a few months ago, and I’m pondering what to do about it. I’ve come up with 2 ideas:

1. Make a stiffener out of 3/16” steel to fit around the protruding latch with counterunk holes to match the existing screws, and use that to clamp on the skin, distributing the load. Not terribly difficult and I could paint to match, and while not OEM, I don’t think it would be very prominent.

2. Pull the latch, drill and press a matching countersink on a copper plate. Put it inside to match existing hole and thereby back it up, and clamp in place. Prep the crack down to bare metal, and low current TIG tack weld slowly and repetitively, fill up the crack. Sand down so it’s not too obvious, and paint to match. The paint is satin, so it’s not too hard to touch-up. Plenty of ways for this to go wrong, though. Such as ending up with a giant hole, crappy weld, ugly, etc.

That’s what I came up with. Anybody wrestle with this befoe and have a solution? Suggestions?

Thanks, Ron

 

[Bitch'nBronco]

I used these, i had cracking on both doors and this solved it https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-clas...LRP2/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18909117275

 

[DonH]

I am working on replacing the door in my 77. That little crack is the least of your problems is you take the latch out. The way it is, it should will last for ever. If you must, find someone that tig welds and it should be a easy fix with the latch in place.

 

[PCB 4x4]

I've actually been able to weld those up from the backside, a little but doable. Now for the Mustangs they make a plate for that.

 

[rjrobin2002]

I would mig weld that up in a jiffy, but TIG would be best. It's gonna be ugly once done welding due to having to remove the paint before welding.

 

[RonJones]

“Today at 8:14 PMI used these, i had cracking on both doors and this solved it https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-clas...LRP2/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18909117275”

Thanks, B’n B. It looks like somebody’s already worked out idea #1. Maybe it’s the same one used on Mustangs, too. I’m inclined to try that with matching paint. I hate TIG welding in general, and especially don’t enjoy it in awkward positions aka not on the bench.

 

[PCB 4x4]

On those repair pieces, I trim alot of the material off to make them look nicer.

 

[DirtDonk]

Why can’t the repair piece go on the back as a reinforcement? Stays invisible in the paint stays intact that way. Maybe?

 

[PCB 4x4]

Probably because the factory door is counter for the screws, so your plate wouldn't fit flush on the backside

 

[RonJones]

I can check out the fitment on the inside but I’d want to do something cosmetically for the crack - stop drill and bondo, maybe.

Thanks, Ron

 

[EPB72]

If not welding cracks , would shape / trim up reinforcement plate to your liking, either paint to match or back ? And use panel bond during assembly .

 

[RonJones]

I thought of a third way to mitigate the crack. In aircraft, we frequently augment worn dimpled fastener holes, with something called a Tinnerman washer. I have some #10 size in stainless of these on hand. The machine screws of the latch are an uncommon size; #12-24 NC thread with an 82 deg countersink and fitting about a 7/32” diameter hole. I have yet to find a dimple die that size, so I drilled a hole in the Tinnerman washers 1/64th inch down from 7/32”, and used #12-24 NC oval head screws. The Tinnerman’s are 100 deg countersink and the oval heads are 82 deg, but don’t look bad:

 

[DirtDonk]

That there Tinnerman feller, or gal, was very clever and prolific

 

[Broncobowsher]

aircraft...
no wonder you care way more about a crack than the rest of us.

 

[RonJones]

Force of habit, I suppose!

 

[RonJones]

BTW, don’t use a #12-24 NC screw longer than 1/2”. The latch won’t latch if you do. Don’t ask …