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dream garage

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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
I'm not talking like making it waterproof or anything. If you sheetrock, just put molding at the floor, paint and caulk the gap so nothing can get under it. You just don't want hot berries getting to the wood.

Jim W.

gotcha...i was kicking around the idea of epoxying the floor...is that a bad idea with welding? i haven't decided if i'll sheetrock or MDF the inside. I put MDF up in my wood working shop in the basement and it's awesome being able to just screw things to the wall wherever you want!
 

jim3326

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
1,781
Loc.
Appleturkey
There's not a whole lot out there that likes welding on top of it, even bare concrete erodes over time. My floor was nice and smooth, now it's about as rough as a broom finish where I do the majority of the welding.

I guess your MDF is what we call OSB out here. That would be fine for the walls but I would still paint and seal at the floor. Painting the walls a light color makes it so much easier to see what your doing.

Jim W.
 

bknbronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2011
Messages
4,378
Loc.
North Metro, MN
why would i need 12-14' if NO lift is in the plans

Well 10' ant verry high. If you have a extra tall 8' overhead door then youd need at least a 9'-6" ceiling height im sure (12" of that being a header, plus 3" for double top plate, and another 1 1/2" for bucks). Im just saying 10' min, and a 12' ceiling height would be best (14' might be overkill). My bronco barely squeezes under our 7' garage door, and thats without a top. Now that i think about it every truck i have owned hit the rubber weatherstripping coming into the garage with a 7' door.

And if the lift isnt far enough in you wont be able to open the door if the ceiling is too low.
 

JefeAZ

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
3,038
Loc.
Tucson
Parents "4 car" garage is 44'x32'. 9' doors 12' ceiling, tons of lighting and a 4 post lift with wheels. Did the 9' doors so we could roll the lift outside. Wired for 220V. Planned on running air on the walls but the mobile compressor is all we needed. Empty you could probably fit 7-9 cars. Still planning on a FFR Cobra one of these days.

Contractors estimated it at $70-105k to build. Dad hired his own guys and has less than $35k in it. Only regret is no AC. Still need to stain the floors and get some cabinets in
 

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OP
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J

jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
There's not a whole lot out there that likes welding on top of it, even bare concrete erodes over time. My floor was nice and smooth, now it's about as rough as a broom finish where I do the majority of the welding.

I guess your MDF is what we call OSB out here. That would be fine for the walls but I would still paint and seal at the floor. Painting the walls a light color makes it so much easier to see what your doing.

Jim W.

you're right...it's OSB...i always make that mistake and call it MDF. MDF over all the walls would cost a small fortune! And yes...I painted it white and would do the same. You can't tape and mud the cracks like sheetrock but it's a lot more useful i think.
 
OP
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J

jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
Well 10' ant verry high. If you have a extra tall 8' overhead door then youd need at least a 9'-6" ceiling height im sure (12" of that being a header, plus 3" for double top plate, and another 1 1/2" for bucks). Im just saying 10' min, and a 12' ceiling height would be best (14' might be overkill). My bronco barely squeezes under our 7' garage door, and thats without a top. Now that i think about it every truck i have owned hit the rubber weatherstripping coming into the garage with a 7' door.

And if the lift isnt far enough in you wont be able to open the door if the ceiling is too low.

yeah i have my EB in my main garage now with 7' doors and with the top on it rubs the rubber on the bottom of the door. i'm definitely going with 8' garage doors. i'm thinking of doing barn doors actually instead of roll-up so the ceiling is wide open. if my EB is 7' tall a 12' ceiling would allow me to lift it 4-4.5' off the ground. that's not the most ideal, but certainly workable and better than what i have now!
 
OP
OP
J

jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
Parents "4 car" garage is 44'x32'. 9' doors 12' ceiling, tons of lighting and a 4 post lift with wheels. Did the 9' doors so we could roll the lift outside. Wired for 220V. Planned on running air on the walls but the mobile compressor is all we needed. Empty you could probably fit 7-9 cars. Still planning on a FFR Cobra one of these days.

Contractors estimated it at $70-105k to build. Dad hired his own guys and has less than $35k in it. Only regret is no AC. Still need to stain the floors and get some cabinets in

this is really great news...i was thinking mine could cost me 50k but this garage is MUCH bigger than what i have room for and really nice for 35k. thanks for the pics too!
 

deltarat

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 12, 2006
Messages
3,371
Loc.
Drew,Ms
I have a 30'x62' with heat and air, but I do need to add a helo pad on top. My helicopter is really giving my lawn hell.
 

dave67fd

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
2,863
You have to make a decision on what your "REAL" plans are and then set a budget. For example, If you figure on a $20-30k dollar garage (depending on your location and other factors) add another 10k+
I would plaster the walls instead of sheet rock, it's alot stronger and less likely to put holes in it and you can patch it easier. A 10'+ ceiling is more than enough with no lift. When you get to 12'+ and above you have to consider special/specific lighting.

As far as the floor goes, use a two part epoxy. Welding "on" it isin't the best idea and nothing will probably hold up over time to it.

Mines 28 x 38 with 8 x 9 doors. (2000+ sq. ft.)

Visit garagegournal.com before you build and ask questions and learn.

See my complete build@
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102939

Still need to finish painting the dormers amoung a 100 other things.

DSC01731-1.jpg


Upper loft area
DSC01073.jpg


ceilings and one side is plaster with the other side and back is OSB.

DSC01574.jpg

DSC01573.jpg
 
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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
Thanks Dave. That is an awesome garage! I don't think I could get away with something that big in the spot I have. I wish I could! Good tips tho and I'll def check out that site. Much appreciated!


-Lyle
 

dave67fd

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
2,863
Lyle,
It's probably the best premere site for turning your garage into your dream place or just keeping it simple, DIY and doing it correctly. (sometimes i wished i never found it, lol) but seriously it's loaded with info no matter how small you wind up with.
Good luck.
Here's the quick link to the forum. I'm sure you will love the gallery.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
 

hyghlndr

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Messages
5,076
Loc.
Hockessin, Delaware
My suggestion is to go as big and tall as possible. I would plan for enough first floor height for a lift if possible. Things like extra windows, interior, electric, etc can always be done later.

I ended up doing plywood vs drywall. It holds up much better, can easily support things like signs and fixtures. I insulated with the rolled stuff first.
 
Last edited:

gnpenning

Bronco Slave
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
2,267
Loc.
I have more questions than answers.
Check your building codes they may require sheetrock. I love radiat heat doing it in 2 of my own places and others. Be sure to insulate under the pad. Yes, it works fine. Do not let your pad go out under your doors. Use thermo breaks around all edges or you will be heating the great outdoors. You can use a highlift or follow the roof line tracks on your grarage doors. The high lift wiil require a jackshaft opener. Duro rock or anything like it will work great in the welding areas along the walls. I'm a big fan of ICF walls and live in a home with them. My next place I will use them again. The are giant legos and you can do it yourself. Heating and cooling is much easier. I use a attic fan (thermostaticly controlled) moving air from the east to the west side taking advantage of the afternoon shade to pull in cooler air thru the attic. Lots of outlets and bench space with air as others have mentioned. Do a 50amp and a 30amp 220v outlets. Build to grow into not grow out of. good luck. Btw as mentioned it will always cost more than expected.
 

matt w

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 12, 2007
Messages
2,799
I just moved into for me my dream garage!

It is an extra wide 2 car garage that I can fit my truck in and my wifes big astro van with my 1800 VTX parked also! ...THEN It has a raised 4.5 foot section all around the perimiter. It came with a nice large sturdy huge workbench! Also one side has 3 levals of shelving for all my wifes christmas gear and my camping gear and all the other stuff a family gathers after 25 years!...ALSO there are rafters with nice floors for storing more gear!,,,,I now have more space than I ever dreamed I would have AND I have a huge 2 car shed out back that is empty!....All on 5 acres in Agua Dulce! I love it!;D
 
OP
OP
J

jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
Lyle,
It's probably the best premere site for turning your garage into your dream place or just keeping it simple, DIY and doing it correctly. (sometimes i wished i never found it, lol) but seriously it's loaded with info no matter how small you wind up with.
Good luck.
Here's the quick link to the forum. I'm sure you will love the gallery.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

yeah thanks Dave...I already registered and have checked out a ton of stuff. It is very helpful and given me some great ideas. I do kinda wish you never showed me this. These forum sites are going to be the death of me. At least the death of my free time! Plus I end up doing things better which typically costs more money!
 
OP
OP
J

jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
Check your building codes they may require sheetrock. I love radiat heat doing it in 2 of my own places and others. Be sure to insulate under the pad. Yes, it works fine. Do not let your pad go out under your doors. Use thermo breaks around all edges or you will be heating the great outdoors. You can use a highlift or follow the roof line tracks on your grarage doors. The high lift wiil require a jackshaft opener. Duro rock or anything like it will work great in the welding areas along the walls. I'm a big fan of ICF walls and live in a home with them. My next place I will use them again. The are giant legos and you can do it yourself. Heating and cooling is much easier. I use a attic fan (thermostaticly controlled) moving air from the east to the west side taking advantage of the afternoon shade to pull in cooler air thru the attic. Lots of outlets and bench space with air as others have mentioned. Do a 50amp and a 30amp 220v outlets. Build to grow into not grow out of. good luck. Btw as mentioned it will always cost more than expected.

yeah I've got the builder who built my house coming tomorrow so I'll have lots of questions about code, etc to ask him. I like the idea of an attic fan.
 

gnpenning

Bronco Slave
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
2,267
Loc.
I have more questions than answers.
When you look at garage doors Keep in mind size. I have heard many complain about doors to small but never to big. I would never go for myself one that is under 10 wide for a single or 18 for a double. Anything over 8 high is commercial. If you have room for a 10 go with that over a 9. The price should be about the same for the door and the same for the opener. good luck.
 
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