dream garage

[dave67fd]

yeah thanks Dave...I already registered and have checked out a ton of stuff. It is very helpful and given me some great ideas. I do kinda wish you never showed me this. These forum sites are going to be the death of me. At least the death of my free time! Plus I end up doing things better which typically costs more money!

Yeah, I know but why should i be the only one who suffers.lol
It add's time and money but think about how proud youll be once it's done.

 

[jlylec]

When you look at garage doors Keep in mind size. I have heard many complain about doors to small but never to big. I would never go for myself one that is under 10 wide for a single or 18 for a double. Anything over 8 high is commercial. If you have room for a 10 go with that over a 9. The price should be about the same for the door and the same for the opener. good luck.

yeah very good point...my current doors are 7' and with the hard top on my EB on 7.5" of lift and 35" tires brushes on the rubber seal on the bottom of the door. I'm going with 8' H x 9-10' W doors for this garage.

 

[jlylec]

met with the builder this morning and got some more ideas and a plan for a plan. I'm struggling with the lift plan. I'd really like to have a lift one day. I'd like a 2 post for functionality working on my cars, but I'd like a 4-post for storage since I prefer to buy cars instead of sell cars! I wish the 4-posters would allow you to lift by the frame if you wanted...as opposed to having to drive on. the 2-posters aren't good for car storage and either have a bar across the top or the bottom which isn't ideal. no perfect lift i guess!

This decision is important to me because it will likely have an impact on how i future-proof the garage. I don't plan on installing a lift right away, but certainly in the next year or so.

 

[broncobilly72]

my garage is 30x40 with 10' ceilings. The roof is a 9/12 pitch so i have 800sq ft of storage above the garage. In the center are two 6x6 columns with a 6x24 glue lam to support any chain lifts. I really like the 30 deep for work benches and clearance. I also have room for my boat, air compressor, arc and gas welders and a large rolling tool chest. When wiring be sure to add a lot of switchable outlets in the ceiling for installing
4' shop lites...they are the cheapest way to go.

 

[patterdale]

Not gonna reread all the posts here. You want at least 10 ft doors. By the time you add big tires and lift anything less you won't get in or out. Would be quite funny to build it up inside and not be able to get it out. With conventional doors you need @ 2' higher sidewalls than the door height to clearance the hardware. I put cathedral trusses in ours to get a 12'H by 24' wide door on the end of a 40' wide building with 12' sidewalls. The best thing to do is talk to pole shed/garage builders in your area for ideas. If you want to "future proof" this baby you better plan exactly where you want the lift and put the footings in now. You won't just add it later on to the standard 4" reinfoirced concrete floor without a lot of cutting and digging. (pita) The difference in price for our 24 x 12 commercial door over 2 doors on the end was 350$. Small change up front for the piece of mind. And, When you get old you want to consider being able to get your RV inside. (joke)

 

[Case]

I'd like a 2 post for functionality working on my cars, but I'd like a 4-post for storage since I prefer to buy cars instead of sell cars! I wish the 4-posters would allow you to lift by the frame if you wanted...as opposed to having to drive on. the 2-posters aren't good for car storage and either have a bar across the top or the bottom which isn't ideal. no perfect lift i guess!

For 4 post lifts i thought they had the option to put a jack on a central track system so you could lift the vehicle up off its wheels? more food for thought ;D

 

[patterdale]

You have to make a decision on what your "REAL" plans are and then set a budget. For example, If you figure on a $20-30k dollar garage (depending on your location and other factors) add another 10k+
I would plaster the walls instead of sheet rock, it's alot stronger and less likely to put holes in it and you can patch it easier. A 10'+ ceiling is more than enough with no lift. When you get to 12'+ and above you have to consider special/specific lighting.

As far as the floor goes, use a two part epoxy. Welding "on" it isin't the best idea and nothing will probably hold up over time to it.

Mines 28 x 38 with 8 x 9 doors. (2000+ sq. ft.)

Visit garagegournal.com before you build and ask questions and learn.


the other situation.

See my complete build@
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102939

Still need to finish painting the dormers amoung a 100 other things.

Upper loft area

ceilings and one side is plaster with the other side and back is OSB.

At 28 x 38 you are only at 1064 sq ft that the Bronco can occupy except for loose parts in the loft. Remember carrying stuff up and down the steps- will suck ie. heavy parts-tools-machines etc. Ours is 40x60 and 2400 sq ft. on one level. (Big difference) X2 on the fixtures. There are high mount and low mount fixtures. Don't mix them up or you will not be satisfied with the quality of lighting.

 

[gnpenning]

a 9' wide door is a cut down 10'. As mentioned the 24 wide door is nice. Depends how your shop is laid out. Sometimes it is nicer to have 2 18 wides so you can get in without moving anything. Both ways will work depending on lay out. Extra doors mean extra openers. I have 3 on mine but it gives a more balanced look and at 10 wide I can back a trailer in. My next place will have some wider doors. If you do go with a lift be sure and thicken your pad or put in footings where the hoist will go. You will need more to hold your ramheads. The better 4 post have sliding lift options.

 

[broncosbybart]

Franko, I'd have killed you if you had come into our office asking us to design/build those trusses! BTW, he must be joking on the heli pad.

Been out of that business for a few years now. Build my garage to 900sf. That is as big as they'd let me here. I do have another 24x24 garage as well, but use the 900sf as my shop. Built it with attic trusses over 2 bays and vaulted (scissor) trusses over the 3rd so that I could run 10' walls and still have a section over 12' for a lift. Not the biggest thing out there, but very blessed to have it and it has helped me from collecting too much stuff. Have about 35k in it. 10 of that is in concrete/slab work, including the apron.

You guys on here have some nice stuff for sure!

 

[joshuar6447]

all these nice garages make me jealous. I'm working out of my 2 car attatched. Next house I think i'll get a 2 bedroom trailer house with a 5 car garage.

 

[jlylec]

Not gonna reread all the posts here. You want at least 10 ft doors. By the time you add big tires and lift anything less you won't get in or out. Would be quite funny to build it up inside and not be able to get it out. With conventional doors you need @ 2' higher sidewalls than the door height to clearance the hardware. I put cathedral trusses in ours to get a 12'H by 24' wide door on the end of a 40' wide building with 12' sidewalls. The best thing to do is talk to pole shed/garage builders in your area for ideas. If you want to "future proof" this baby you better plan exactly where you want the lift and put the footings in now. You won't just add it later on to the standard 4" reinfoirced concrete floor without a lot of cutting and digging. (pita) The difference in price for our 24 x 12 commercial door over 2 doors on the end was 350$. Small change up front for the piece of mind. And, When you get old you want to consider being able to get your RV inside. (joke)

Unfortunately for my HOA I need to somewhat match the doors on my current garage so I can't go with commercial sized doors. I am going to get 8' high doors though. Mine BARELY fits in the 7' doors now and I have no plans on lifting it more than another 12"!

I am pouring a 6" slab for the lift.

 

[jlylec]

For 4 post lifts i thought they had the option to put a jack on a central track system so you could lift the vehicle up off its wheels? more food for thought ;D

yeah I think this is the route I'm going to go...adds a little cost and I'm not sure the best type of jack to use for that, but it makes the most sense overall.

 

[jim3326]

I think you need more than 6", I would go 12"X 3' with lots of rebar. Concrete is only the glue that holds the steel together, by itself it sucks.

Jim W.

 

[bmc69]

I have a 36x60 its too small

Ours is 36 x 60 and ..yep..WAY too small, as its turned out. It looke so big when it was new..and empty... %)

Overhead beams with trolley hoists in both bays (12' ceiling height, 11' doors) are a must and we use them a lot..but I still want to install a 2-post lift and its already too darned tight in the shop.

AC is another big must around here; I bought a big industrial unit several years ago but we have not got it mounted up and connected yet.

 

[crozetcrew]

I rode through Old Trail last Thursday and I think I found your house. Saw a black Yota parked in the driveway. I was pushed for time as always so I didn't stop.%)

Chris

 

[dave67fd]

At 28 x 38 you are only at 1064 sq ft that the Bronco can occupy except for loose parts in the loft. Remember carrying stuff up and down the steps- will suck ie. heavy parte-tools-machines etc. Ours is 40x60 and 2400 sq ft. on one level. (Big difference) X2 on the fixtures. There are high mount and low mount fixtures. Don't mix them up or you will not be satisfied with the quality of lighting.

My 2000+ sq ft. included the upper loft area that will house my radio shack/man cave. There will be no parts storage, machines etc.. in the loft area. It will be finished pine board, carpet etc.. The stairway is much wider than the typical residential stairway. Trust me i have already done my share of moving things around hundreds of times.lol Untill the areas are complete i'll probably do another 100.

Currently In the garage area I have my Bronco a 67 Fairlane, another Bronco frame and all my other stuff and still room to comfortably work on all three.

 

[jlylec]

Ours is 36 x 60 and ..yep..WAY too small, as its turned out. It looke so big when it was new..and empty... %)

Overhead beams with trolley hoists in both bays (12' ceiling height, 11' doors) are a must and we use them a lot..but I still want to install a 2-post lift and its already too darned tight in the shop.

AC is another big must around here; I bought a big industrial unit several years ago but we have not got it mounted up and connected yet.

yeah I've been trying to figure out ways to do the beams for hoists. does anyone have any idea how much just normal floor joists for the second floor can hold if a hoist is hung from one?

I'm going to run a slim pack HVAC unit I think. I was planning on radiant floors but the cost is way high and not really necessary in VA. The slim packs just hang on the wall and at least you don't have to mess with ducts and stuff.

 

[jlylec]

I rode through Old Trail last Thursday and I think I found your house. Saw a black Yota parked in the driveway. I was pushed for time as always so I didn't stop.%)

Chris

yup that's me...that yota was my last project. I love that truck and will never sell it. that was not music to my wife's ears when I picked up the EB!

 

[jlylec]

here's a very simple sketch-up of my plan. man it does look small! but it's really the biggest I can go in this spot. Hopefully it'll be enough. It'll hold 3 cars with the lift. You can see the hole in the floor of the loft for the EB to raise up in to. I'm also going to rig a hoist directly above there for storing the hard top in the summer.

any glaring issues with this design? I just hired a CADD guy to draw up real plans since I'll need them for the county permit approval. He'll be able to help with floor system and foundation planning etc. Going with 6" exterior construction too.

 

[dave67fd]

yeah I've been trying to figure out ways to do the beams for hoists. does anyone have any idea how much just normal floor joists for the second floor can hold if a hoist is hung from one?

I'm going to run a slim pack HVAC unit I think. I was planning on radiant floors but the cost is way high and not really necessary in VA. The slim packs just hang on the wall and at least you don't have to mess with ducts and stuff.

It will depend on the floor span and if you go with I-joists or standard joists with lally-columns. I opted for the I-joists to rid the use of lally colums that would break/take up the space. Depending on the I-joist manuf. your builder goes with but ask him and he can tell you the load requirements and if extra support will be required. I think mine is 40lbs per sq/ft not including the live load but not sure.