Drum Brake rebuild

[74 Bronco Billy]

1. Do I really need these seals installed for the rear axle to not leak?
2. Do I have to take the 3rd member out of the axle to remove axles?

It's been four years since I did the rebuild, and I have to take apart the drum brakes to regrease them per instructions (thanks Steve83). Will High temp wheel bearing grease work for this?

So, how big a job do I have here...%)

 

[DirtDonk]

1. Do I really need these seals installed for the rear axle to not leak?

No

2. Do I have to take the 3rd member out of the axle to remove axles?

No.

It's been four years since I did the rebuild, and I have to take apart the drum brakes to regrease them per instructions (thanks Steve83). Will High temp wheel bearing grease work for this?

Yes.
But check with Steve on that anyway, since they may have specific brake grease stuff for that now. I'm thinking that caliper slider grease might be a good product.
Otherwise known as "brake grease" I think.

So, how big a job do I have here...%)

Not big.

Paul

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, just to be sure, you do not have to pull the axles to work on the brake shoes.
For years we used a white grease that comes in a small tub or tube called Lubriplate. We used the same white grease on moving engine parts like bearings and rocker arms during major repairs. I still use it the old way.
Now I see many people using never seize. It probably works just fine.
Good luck

 

[74 Bronco Billy]

Thanks Paul and B RON CO, I thinking I'll call up the old dude at the Napa parts counter and see what he suggests. Glad I don't need to take it apart. Just grease up and reinstall

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[EPB72]

Caliper slide grease,,white lithium grease,,anti sieze they all work fine I use anti sieze been fine on thousands of brake jobs over the years,,,,,

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, if everything looks good you could just pry the shoes away from the backing plates and get the grease on the three flat pads for each shoe, then adjust the brakes until you hear the shoes just gently scraping on the drum when you spin the tire. Good luck

 

[gr8scott]

Hi, just to be sure, you do not have to pull the axles to work on the brake shoes.

True, but it makes it sooo much easier to get to everything...

 

[Broncobowsher]

Only have to pull the axles if doing a full floating axle like a Dana 60. You don't have one.
Brake jobs are super common. The axle stays in place. Generally only comes out for a brake job in the backing plate is damaged (rusted out) and needs replacing.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Tech Tip...
Only disassemble one brake at a time. That way you'll have the other side for reference.

 

[Rustytruck]

remove the shoes and weld up the support pads the shoes sit against if they are grooved from the shoes. Grind them flat. take apart the self adjusters clean and wire wheel them and grease them on reassembly. with brakes its the little things that count and make them work properly for a very long time.

 

[74 Bronco Billy]

True, but it makes it sooo much easier to get to everything...

Is that a Bronco drum? The bar between the shoes looks different

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[diggs00]

remove the shoes and weld up the support pads the shoes sit against if they are grooved from the shoes. Grind them flat. take apart the self adjusters clean and wire wheel them and grease them on reassembly. with brakes its the little things that count and make them work properly for a very long time.

^^ what he said, I installed my new drum brakes 3 times before I figured out the support pad issue. At least now I can do my drum brakes with my eyes closed.

 

[74 Bronco Billy]

E brake cables

I've attached a picture from Steve83's database. Does anyone know where I can buy the fittings that go over the brake tiping that covers the spring and cable of the e brake cable? and these neat dust covers? And the spring clamps? They are very cool to finish of the E brake cables. They are labeled A B and C

Thanks,

Forrest

 

[73azbronco]

I think thats just the end of the emer brake cable assembly, not a separate part.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, as mentioned, that looks like the end of the outer cable sheething, it ends with a metal ferrule so it can be held in place with the horseshoe clip. Good luck

 

[DirtDonk]

Here's something to add about taking the axles out or not. This is an advantage for testing the wheel bearings!
You can find some faults with worn out bearings while the axles are still installed of course, but it's easier once they're out.
When you did the rebuild a few years ago, did you change the wheel bearings at that time? Or did you personally ever do it? If you don't know the history of these bearings, now's the time to find out.

Generally speaking though, if they are original or you don't know their history and the vehicle has 100k or more miles on it, don't guess or over-think it. Just take them out and have them replaced.
On that theme, if you don't know their history, they may only have 22 miles on them and be perfectly good. But the grease is still 46 years old and that makes an argument for new bearings as well.
Hopefully they're all just a few years old and you don't have anything to worry about.

Bottom line is that, when in doubt. change them out. It's just cheap insurance.

Paul

 

[74 Bronco Billy]

Well, the custom ones from Duff have nothing on the ends. So I'm looking for something I can use

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[74 Bronco Billy]

Here's something to add about taking the axles out or not. This is an advantage for testing the wheel bearings!
You can find some faults with worn out bearings while the axles are still installed of course, but it's easier once they're out.
When you did the rebuild a few years ago, did you change the wheel bearings at that time? Or did you personally ever do it? If you don't know the history of these bearings, now's the time to find out.

Generally speaking though, if they are original or you don't know their history and the vehicle has 100k or more miles on it, don't guess or over-think it. Just take them out and have them replaced.
On that theme, if you don't know their history, they may only have 22 miles on them and be perfectly good. But the grease is still 46 years old and that makes an argument for new bearings as well.
Hopefully they're all just a few years old and you don't have anything to worry about.

Bottom line is that, when in doubt. change them out. It's just cheap insurance.

Paul

Ya Paul, completely rebuilt with new bearings, just left out the seals.

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[DirtDonk]

1. Do I really need these seals installed for the rear axle to not leak?

I had originally intended to add a few details, but got sidetracked. As usual...
While they are not needed to keep the oil from leaking out of the housing, they are still useful.
The are supplemental to the inner seals, to keep outside stuff outside, and I believe to also attempt to re-direct gear lube that does leak, outside of the drum instead of directly inside where it can contaminate the shoes.
I'd like to hear from someone that actually knows for sure, but that's my take on those gaskets/seals.

And the bottom line for me is that, since you actually have them, why not use them where they were intended?

Paul

 

[74 Bronco Billy]

Well, Paul, it was 4 yes ago, and I don't really want to take them apart, and the deal pics are pics, not sure where the seals are, etc, etc. But you know it will just keep bothering ya unless it's is put back right? So, now I have to figure out if I have enough clearance from the side of the Bronco to pull out the axles...just how long are they?

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