Drum Brake Self Adjuster Parts

[jamesroney]

aWhite lube otw. Thanks again.

OK, don't be mad at me if I act like a "know it all" BUT...

I can see that you swapped the shoes. So I can also see that you did not catch B RON CO's advice. Take a close look at your pictures in post 19. Look at the metal part of the shoe that is just touching the lining at the 1 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 5 o'clock position on the rear shoe, and the 7:00, 9:00 and 11:00 position on the front shoe. Can you see where there is a formed section that bends away from the lining? Those are the specific areas of the shoe that contact the backplate on the BACK side of the shoe. There are several places that need grease. See B RON CO post 12. The star adjuster, (threads, thimble, and star) and "Where the brake shoe contacts the backplate." Since I can't see any grease on the front of the shoes in post 19, I can surmise that there wasn't any on the back of the shoes in post 10. You need grease on the backplate at those contact points. JUST A TINY BIT! But a finger swipe of white lube on the 6 pads is enough to prevent the shoes from sticking, and from gouging the backplates.

Paul. Here are some pics of the parts I dug out this morning. The assembled backplate is the original from my 67 GT500. (hard to find a small bearing 9 inch backplate that's 10x2.5 with a 5x4.5 small lug pattern...) You can see the wavy washer is the correct diameter for the shoulder on the riveted pivot pin. The wavy washer in the Raybestos kit is larger. It happens to be the exact same ID as the adjuster thimble post. So I can see where someone might put it there, since it fits much better there than in the place where it belongs. I have always used the oversized wavy washer between the lever and shoe. But it is clear from the documentation and the shoulder on the pivot pin...that the wavy washer is intended to be between the horseshoe clip and shoe. (As Steve83's reference picture shows.) I have no idea what the wavy washer from the OP in post 2 is for, but it's different than what I'm used to.

In the grand scheme of things, it probably doesn't matter which side the washer is installed, especially if you are using the wrong washer ID. But I justify my improper installation by noting that I can put the wavy washer between the lever and shoe, and then install the horseshoe very quickly. Putting the washer under the horseshoe is harder, and never made sense to me. So there are at least a couple hundred improper installations out there (from me!)

...after further review...It is clear that the design intent is to have a properly sized wavy washer under the horseshoe clip. Otherwise, the spring will push the lever pin away from the shoe, on to the smaller diameter of the journal. With the spring on the horseshoe side, it forces the big part of the pin in the shoe, and reduce bending stress on the pin.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, svnty svn does say white lube otw!
I think he just reassembled the brakes and will apply the grease when he gets some.
Good luck

 

[SVTY SVN]

Hi, that looks better. More tips are is to wind out the star adjuster a little, so the brake drum still slides on easily. That will mean less winding with the brake spoon for the final adjustment. You do have a brake spoon, don't you? Also I would bend down the open end of the purple spring with a plier so it is parallel to the long part. Good luck

Thanks. Do not have brake spoon..planning to reverse and brake to allow drums to dial in their self adjust. I will research but is this not kocher?

Hi, svnty svn does say white lube otw!
I think he just reassembled the brakes and will apply the grease when he gets some.
Good luck

Precisely. Already greased.

 

[B RON CO]

OHHH NOOO!!!! You need a $10 brake spoon and you need to wind up the brakes. I doubt you will get a good adjustment by relying on the backup method. Besides, you will have excess pedal travel until the shoes are close to the drums.
This is not the Ford book method, but I works great for me, and I don't like to tighten the brakes until the drums lock up.
First, wind out the star adjusters but not so much that you cannot install the drums.
Next install the wheels.
Remove the rubber plug and wind the star adjuster. It will only turn one way because the adjusting lever keeps the star from unwinding.
Take the brake spoon and tighten the star as you spin the tire.
Soon you will hear the shoes scraping on the brake drum.
Slowly tighten and spin until you feel resistance on the wheel.
Repeat on the other wheels.
Now you are ready to bleed the brakes if needed, or step on the brake pedal a few times and recheck the adjustment.
Good luck

 

[jamesroney]

Two more details. When I install a set of shoes, and during the adjustment process...I ALWAYS grab the adjuster cable with my thumb, and give it a slight deflection. Just enough to wind the star wheel one click. Then I do it again a couple times. You will quickly get a feel for it...and you can ratchet the adjuster out a couple of clicks to ensure that:
1. everything is in place, and all of the little metal parts are not bent or binding.
2. You didn't put the wrong adjuster on the wrong side.
Once you see the adjuster working...then go back and do everything B RON CO says.

I own at least 5 various brake spoons. For a Bronco, I have found that a regular flat blade screwdriver works just fine. If you don't own a brake spoon...go ahead and remove the rubber plug as described...and use your short handled flat blade screwdriver to wind the star adjuster. Do this before you install the drum...and you can see what you are doing...then go back and do everything B RON CO says.

 

[Steve83]

If you read that link I posted and the NEXT several pages, it'll go together pretty easily, and work right.

(click this text)


Brake grease (NOT white lithium) needs to be applied DURING assembly - not after. You can't grease the adjuster threads or the park lever pivot or the shoe pads or the spreader bar or anything else properly after assembly.

(click this text)


And the LAST part to go on is the cable - its ring helps keep the springs hooked on the peg. After assembly, the adjuster should be adjusted so that the drum will barely fit on & turn freely. There's a tool shown at that link to assist, but it's not necessary.

(click this text)


I don't normally use any other brake tool unless the drums are grooved so badly that the shoes must be retracted for DISassembly. The only other tool needed is to open & close the C-clip on the lever pivot. Everything else is easy to do by hand, if you follow those instructions. The shoe hold-down springs are getting painful to do by hand, so I'm using the blue-handled tool more than I used to.

(click this text)

 

[SVTY SVN]

Thank you, Gents. She’s off the road for a few days but brakes are all done except for final adjustment. Definitely appreciate all the help.