Duraspart II Conversion

[dnash]

I am getting what i need together for the Duraspark II conversion but I have a few questions. Their are several links in the threads to what is supposed to be a good write-up, but the link does not work. I have a 289 that currently has a Hays? electronic ignition system on it that seems to be going out. I decided to just put new parts on so I have been asking at the parts stores for parts for a 78 ranchero with the 302. I have the cap, adapter, rotor, and module. I still need the distributor and wiring. I am using the coil and wires that I have since they are pretty new. 2 questions.

1. Can I get the wiring, or will I need to make something? If I can, where and what do I ask for?

2. What do I tell them when they ask about vacuum advance on the dizzy? I think my options are single and dual. I don't know what this does.


Thanks

 

[jabranovich]

wiring Duraspark

See if this will come up for you,it's the best one I've ever seen,even in color, htp://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ignition-control-module-wiring-937 ,it's long ,when you click on it just scoll down and it will come up.

 

[dnash]

That link doesn't seem to work either. I tried a search on the hot rodders site but to no avail.

 

[broncnaz]

Try this link. http://www.sierrabronco.com/duraspark.htm

Your best bet is to hit up a junkyard for the wiring and grab as much as you can usually the bigger cars ie lincolns T birds ect will have nice long wires. Get the single vaccum advance for the DIzzy its better than the duals the duals are for timing retard and are junk.
Also the modules with the Blue plastic strip are the best ones to get other colors are not as good and have uneeded wires.

 

[dnash]

Thanks for the info broncnaz and thanks for your service to your country as well.

 

[fordguy]

this is also a good color pic and a good site (mustangsteve.com) http://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html

 

[OX1]

Try this link. http://www.sierrabronco.com/duraspark.htm

Your best bet is to hit up a junkyard for the wiring and grab as much as you can usually the bigger cars ie lincolns T birds ect will have nice long wires. Get the single vaccum advance for the DIzzy its better than the duals the duals are for timing retard and are junk.
Also the modules with the Blue plastic strip are the best ones to get other colors are not as good and have uneeded wires.

Which year 302 distr would be best to get, I thought I remembered my 77 had dual vac advance??

 

[ponch0v]

Single vacuum advance from 76' EB, f150 truck (302 ci), etc.

This may help too: http://bcbroncos.com/Duraspark.pdf

 

[OX1]

SWEET!!, a 76 is the donor for my 70. Anyone know where that resistor wire might be in the harness of a 76??

 

[70_Steve]

1. Can I get the wiring, or will I need to make something? If I can, where and what do I ask for?

If you can get the wiring, it might make things a little easier. When I got my distributor and module, they had no connectors on them. So, I just bought WeatherPak connectors from Del City and made my own harness using the Duraspark diagrams in the links already posted. I actually have two modules mounted under the hood, just in case...

 

[broncnaz]

SWEET!!, a 76 is the donor for my 70. Anyone know where that resistor wire might be in the harness of a 76??

Its in the wire that runs to the coil.I believe its close to the ignition switch. But the 70 has the same resistor so you really dont need to pull the one off the 76. Unless your 70 is blowing up coils. You only need the wiring that connects the module and dist together.
I usually asked for a 76 granada setup most of the time the parts guy will ask if its single or dual diaphram. So you can have your pick.

 

[dnash]

OK. So I have the parts together. I pulled out the old dizzy put in the new one. The old one will not turn freely, which may be where my original problem lies.


I had some trouble getting the new one in. I lined up the rotor by taking pictures before and after but I could never get it to match exactly. Does this look like it should be close enough or is there something else I could do.

I am also curious as to what the rod sticking out of the distributor in the third picture does. I think it was giving me trouble getting the new one in and as you can see in the picture, it came out on one of the attempts.


Next up will be the wiring.

 

[ponch0v]

OOPS....oil pump drive rod.

Youll need to fish it back down and locate into the oil pump. They are held into the block from inside by a tinnermans clip. DONT DROP IT IN THE BLOCK or you will be looking at dropping the pan to get it out.

 

[dnash]

I was afraid it was something like that. I put it back in with it stuck into the distributor and it seemed to stay in place. Do I need the clip or will the distributor hold it in place? When I start it, I guess I need to look for oil pressure and if it doesn't come right up, shut it down?

 

[1sicbronconut]

painless wiring makes a very nice wiring kit for this swap. It's very nice having all new wiring/plugs!!http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+400012+115&Nao=170

 

[SpareParts]

Kit is nice but they are proud of it. $109...ouch. Find a 70's or early 80's car or truck to get the wiring off of.

The oil pump shaft will be fine if you did not hear it bounce off the oil pan. The dist. will hold it down.

David

 

[dnash]

Whew. I was a little worried. So, back to my previous question, does it look like it is lined up close enough that I won't have any issues? This is my first dizzy replacement.

Also, thanks for the link for the wiring but I picked up 2 sets from the boneyard last week for $5. One from a 78 Lincoln and one from a 79 F-150. The lincoln one seems a lot beefier but was also a lot harder to remove.

 

[t.lay]

I pulled the dist. harness from an 80 f150 junker along with plug wires and a bunch of misc wiring stuff from an old lincoln- paid $1.

 

[dnash]

I got it all back together, charged the battery and tried to start it. The first few times, nothing. Then, it tried to crank. It would fire 2-3 times and then shut off. I was encouraged that it fired at all and seemed to do the same thing every time I tried to crank it. Now, what adjustments do I need to make to keep it running. I am pretty sure I still need to ground the module, but I am thinking that I need to do some adjusting on the dizzy. There also seemed to be a funny smell that I couldn't place, but I don't think it was gasoline.

I also found that 2 of the diagrams from the earlier posts were slightly different. I am not sure if the 2-wire plug to the module is connected properly. From what I read on other threads, it seems that the only issue this would cause is that it will not shut off, but I am not sure if that makes sense.

 

[OX1]

My donor has a busted connector. If I go for a rebuild (76 302 bronc distr), should I get a steel or cast iron drive gear?? (both are avail and about the same money).