Easiest D44 drum to disk conversion?

[RPM289]

I have read numerous posts on swaps but which one is the easiest to do? Find in junk yard? Available replacement parts?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Timmy390]

It's hard to beat an all in one kit. Everything you need being delivered to the door is nice. Nothing to remove rust off of, nothing to paint, etc.

I like the challenge of sourcing all the parts myself. I went 79 bronco knuckles out. All the "replacement" parts I can get at my local parts store. Reused the stock drum/drum MC, H block and locking hubs. Picked up a booster and bracket off eBay. Had to get a few odds and ends but all in all it was an easy swap.

Tim

 

[broncodriver99]

I went '78 Bronco. The Chevy kit is probably easier but I like the Ford brake setup better.

 

[k13evin]

Same here 79 bronco breaks with booster and bracket off eBay. Stops on a dime with 33s

 

[SteveL]

I prefer the Ford swap but the parts are getting tougher to find.

 

[Banjer Picker]

It's hard to beat an all in one kit. Everything you need being delivered to the door is nice. Nothing to remove rust off of, nothing to paint, etc.

I like the challenge of sourcing all the parts myself. I went 79 bronco knuckles out. All the "replacement" parts I can get at my local parts store. Reused the stock drum/drum MC, H block and locking hubs. Picked up a booster and bracket off eBay. Had to get a few odds and ends but all in all it was an easy swap.

Tim

Ditto

Did this exact same thing on mine 10 years ago (except I went with a hydroboost brake booster) and did one one a friends 3 weeks ago. You should consider using the '76 Thunderbird calipers if you go with the Ford set up.

 

[Wyflyer]

I did mine by salvaging a 300.00 79 Bronco axle. By the time I finished I had installed new discs, calipers, bearings, brake lines, and seals. All I was able to use was the knuckles and hubs.
If I was doing it again i'd order a kit.

 

[jmangi62]

I wanted to stay ford also, so all I did was buy a disc brake kit from Duffs, it was on sale so I got everything I needed, easy peasey. LOL. ;D

 

[Broncobowsher]

The Chevy version is easiest. You are not busting loose ball joints and tie rod ends. No alignment needed when done either. Just take off parts until you get to the spindles and start putting stuff back on.

I find the brake pad selection is better on the GM stuff.

Long term service parts, you can get what you need. And will for a long time. In either GM or Ford. But there are a lot more GM parts out there.


Now getting the parts...
The vintage of parts you need are getting into the classics. The square body chevy stuff is going up in value. The Ford stuff is getting rare simply becuase all the junk has been scrapped years ago and whats left is too good to scrap. So not much to be had. If you are good scrounging, have plenty of yards around to pick from and can get good prices the self shopping build your own kit can be a good way to go.
Anymore I would just buy a kit. All the parts are sourced. If something doesn't fit right you have a vender to go to for answers. You don't get stuck with buying the wrong set of spindles kind of thing.

 

[73azbronco]

Full size Bronco. 3 junk yards.

But if I did it again I would buy the kits which are complete. Trust me on this, a few hundred saved is not a savings when you spend hours/days scrounging for $5 dollar part.

 

[dave67fd]

Although I originally wanted to go all Ford here I went with the Chevy kit for ease of install and future parts availabilty. Getting too old for anything else;D

 

[DJs74]

Purchased the conversion kit from JBG for around $650 and it came with everything needed including a new proportioning valve, lockout hubs and loaded calipers. Wheel studs came packaged lose and had to be installed.

Overall, the entire kit installed perfectly with zero issues. Ground the knuckles as suggested to ensure the calipers moved freely with no binding. I installed my kit with the motor out which made the proportioning valve install simple. If the motor is in... the exhaust manifold or headers, steering shaft, and power steering pump seriously hinder access from the front and top due to the prop valve location.
Unfortunately and as many can probably relate, my prop valve started leaking soon after the installation so I ended up having to deal with it after the motor was in after all... PITA!

I also purchased and installed the power brake conversion kit at the same time... also a worthwhile investment IMO


DJs74

 

[onebadd73]

Here's the list I used to convert my dana 44 drums to chevy disc 10 years ago.. I got this from the So.Cal Bronco's website in their tech folder.Keep in mind this is a few year's old and prices may have changed. Super easy to install..

Here's all the prices and part #'s These parts are all purchased from Auto Zone.
ALL PARTS ARE LIFETIME WARRANTY

#024196 0524 performance friction pads comp set $27.99
#095745 C503 RH disc brake caliper $12.99 +$10.00 core=$22.99
#095752 C502 LH disc brake caliper $12.99 +$10.00 core=$22.99
#048859 5492 brake rotor/hub comp. $30.99x2=$61.98
#788737 set 37 wheel bearing,Timken $13.99x2=$27.98
#788422 set 45 wheel bearing,Timken $13.99x2=$27.98
#704049 H5002 brake guide bolts $6.99x2=$13.98
#001799 313938 banjo bolts 7/16"x20x1 1/16 $1.99x2=$3.98

Total$209.86 without tax.Minus core charge of $20.00 new total=$189.86

I bought spindles and backing plates on craigslist.

Write up I used..
http://www.emotoman.com/disc/discbrake1.htm

 

[RPM289]

The Chevy version is easiest. You are not busting loose ball joints and tie rod ends. No alignment needed when done either. Just take off parts until you get to the spindles and start putting stuff back on.

I find the brake pad selection is better on the GM stuff.

Long term service parts, you can get what you need. And will for a long time. In either GM or Ford. But there are a lot more GM parts out there.


Now getting the parts...
The vintage of parts you need are getting into the classics. The square body chevy stuff is going up in value. The Ford stuff is getting rare simply becuase all the junk has been scrapped years ago and whats left is too good to scrap. So not much to be had. If you are good scrounging, have plenty of yards around to pick from and can get good prices the self shopping build your own kit can be a good way to go.
Anymore I would just buy a kit. All the parts are sourced. If something doesn't fit right you have a vender to go to for answers. You don't get stuck with buying the wrong set of spindles kind of thing.

So I pretty much just pull everything from backing plate out from a mid 70's chevy and bolt them on my axle? I am a junk yarder so wandering in a great thing to me! but they are getting harder to find!!!

 

[RPM289]

Here's the list I used to convert my dana 44 drums to chevy disc 10 years ago.. I got this from the So.Cal Bronco's website in their tech folder.Keep in mind this is a few year's old and prices may have changed. Super easy to install..

Here's all the prices and part #'s These parts are all purchased from Auto Zone.
ALL PARTS ARE LIFETIME WARRANTY

#024196 0524 performance friction pads comp set $27.99
#095745 C503 RH disc brake caliper $12.99 +$10.00 core=$22.99
#095752 C502 LH disc brake caliper $12.99 +$10.00 core=$22.99
#048859 5492 brake rotor/hub comp. $30.99x2=$61.98
#788737 set 37 wheel bearing,Timken $13.99x2=$27.98
#788422 set 45 wheel bearing,Timken $13.99x2=$27.98
#704049 H5002 brake guide bolts $6.99x2=$13.98
#001799 313938 banjo bolts 7/16"x20x1 1/16 $1.99x2=$3.98

Total$209.86 without tax.Minus core charge of $20.00 new total=$189.86

I bought spindles and backing plates on craigslist.

Write up I used..
http://www.emotoman.com/disc/discbrake1.htm

I will have to check current prices of AZ website! Thanks for all the P/N's!!!!

 

[Broncobowsher]

So I pretty much just pull everything from backing plate out from a mid 70's chevy and bolt them on my axle? I am a junk yarder so wandering in a great thing to me! but they are getting harder to find!!!

I would go as far as taking the axles as well. The short side is a direct drop in for a Bronco D44 and gets you a larger U-joint. The long side would need a cut and shave to work, but makes a dandy upgrade.

What you are looking for is a square body chevy (73 and newer) half ton with a dana 44 front axle (not the corporate 10-bolt).

 

[Pa PITT]

.. OK I'm an old parts man from those years when those truck were new.
Sorry but I feel the Chevy is 10 time better.
.. Chevy calipers are much better than the old ford caliper.
.. I probably replaced 350 ford calipers defective, But I DON'T REMEMBER REPLACING 5 CHEVYS. So to my way of thinking Chevy is the very best.
.... So I DID THE CHEBY ON MINE.
.. YOU NEED 1973 & 1/2.. 74.. TO 74 1/2 ..... MAYBE SLIGHTLY A LITTLE BROADER ON the years.. BUT OFF THE 1/2 TON PICKUP & THE Blazer 1/2 ton.
... You should be able to buy the spindle. .. Spicier makes them . number was something like 7 digests . Number was something like . 70528x But there is a couple of numbers missing from my memory.
.... The Ford calipers piston turned side ways.
...Bearing was 4250S . & THOSE 5492 ROTORS NO LONGER cost 35.00 More like 140.00..
I caught Auto ZONE SELLING OUT & I GOT OR 3 SETS FOR 24.99 each . They fit the 1980 up to about 1986. I used a 1974 chevy caliper brake HOSE .
.. YES IF YOU FIND A FORD 4X4 THAT YOU STEALING THE HUB & ROTORS FROM GET THE 4X4 AXLES
YOU CAN USE THE OUTSIDE stub axles. . MY STOCK m/c WORKS GREAT .
... IF ANYONE CAN FIND THAT SPICER SPINDER NUMBER I'd sure like to have it.

 

[hillbilly1089]

A kit would be easier. I got a front axle from, I believe, a 77 F150 and used everything from the knuckles out. I put new ball joints in and did the power upgrade. Be sure to get an alignment done afterwards. Mine kept trying to put me in a ditch or oncoming traffic until it was aligned.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

 

[DirtDonk]

It's already been mentioned, but sort of under the radar regarding the Chevy install is the grinding of the knuckle to make clearance for the caliper.
So no, it's not just a matter of bolting it all on and you're done. There is at least this one custom modification to contend with.

I don't consider taking the ball-joints out that much trouble, but as said, it's one more layer of labor to work with. As is grinding the knuckle. But doing ball-joints is just regular maintenance stuff, not a custom mod like the grinding.
And if your front end is old enough you're probably going to be replacing the ball-joints and axle shaft u-joints as a matter of course anyway. Which does take the Ford route up a notch in the balance scale.

So if you take that into account, seems to me that the Duff kit is the easiest. The most expensive, but the only one that is just bolt-n-go.
The GM stuff is the most reasonably priced in "kit" form from us vendors typically. They allow you to keep your stock steering linkage, but it does require grinding of the knuckle.
The Ford factory parts are not available as a kit that I'm aware of, but you could probably still buy it all new if you were lucky enough to find the knuckles and spindles. Otherwise, like the GM stuff it's all getting harder and harder to find in the junkyards. But whether you find an EB disc or a full-size truck disc setup, you have to in one way or another alter your tie-rod. Either open up the tapered hole on the knuckles and get a longer tie-rod ('76/77 EB), or use some of the tapered sleeves to neck down the larger holes ('76-'79 F150 or full-size Bronco) to get the stock tie-rod to fit.
Here again though, even changing the steering might be already on the list of things to do if yours is worn out. So not really extra work or expense if you already have to change out the worn parts anyway.
The proper sized rod ends and tie-rod lengths are available from most of us vendors at the same cost as the other upgraded links. The stock links are less expensive, but in most cases upgrading the linkage to something stronger than stock is desirable and part of the master plan for most EB owners anyway.

Lots to think about still!

Paul

 

[Pa PITT]

.. I WAS LOOKING FOR something in my scrape Pile this morning. & FOUND MY CHEVY backing plates ..
.. If someone can tell me where to buy the NEW SPINDLES I'll have a setup for my 68 if it ever get around to it.
..................
...LATERED EDITED .. I was looking on the internet for this spindle numbers .. Found what I was looking for . The old Spicer number is 706528X.. Not sure whose phone number this is but it said ''THESE SPINDLES ARE ALSO USED TO DO THE CHEVY BRAKE CONVERSION ON THE EARLIER FORD BRONCO'S'' IT'S also says call me about the other parts for this conversion .800-464-1713...
I called it's someone truck parts.
... & I think that 99-2033-4 is a kit that has another brand of spindles & the SBK1 bearing kit with it.
.. If someone finds these bearing at a good price let me know. I don't want to give $100.00 each.
& ALSO IF YOU HAVE A BIG BEARING SPINDLE .. It can be turned down on a lathe because I have one in my 72 that my running buddy turned down for me.