engine advice

[msmith]

First off let me make the disclaimer that I am NOT a mechanic or motor head. I rely heavily on people and the internet. I don't have a problem, and prefer to wrench on my own stuff.

So I have the engine out of my 77 build and was contemplating what to do with it. It ran pretty good in spite of having 3 different kinds of plugs in it and it has good compression (150 on the back 6 and 135 & 140 on the front 2 checked cold). With this in mind, I'm thinking clean, paint, dress it up and go with it but it would be nice to have a smidgen more umph. With it being a 77 smog motor and the fact I don't have much of a clue, I decided to make sure of what I actually got.

It appears to be a 74 out of a Maverick, but it has the egr. No other smog equipment.

I'm also considering the fact that it looks like it was pulled out of the weeds from behind the barn.

Here are the routes I am considering but what would you recommend?
1) Leave it alone except for clean, paint, & dress it up. Maybe a mild cam. How do I get rid of the egr?

2) Do a refresh, clean, paint, & maybe cam

3) Crate motor and be done


Best I can tell the code is D4DE. It's easier to see in person

 

[bronco italiano]

leakdown

 

[m_m70]

Where you at?? just asking cause n some states like CA you'll need to smog that rig to get it registered so I save the smog stuff. Even if not for yourself, it may be worth something to someone else.

 

[msmith]

Where you at?? just asking cause n some states like CA you'll need to smog that rig to get it registered so I save the smog stuff. Even if not for yourself, it may be worth something to someone else.

WV. It didn’t have any smog equipment when I got it

 

[bigmuddy]

If you can afford it, either rebuild a used explorer 5.0 or buy a crate motor.

 

[Timmy390]

I wouldn't put a dime into a 1970's random smog 302. Low HP and compression. JMO....I took my old 302 to the scrap yard and haven't looked back.

That said, if it's running good I would bot crack it open or do anything other than give it a rattle can rebuild and drive it till it starts to have issues while saving a few bucks towards the motor swap later on.

What size tires? I ask because gears are 100hp upgrade in some rigs. When I changed gears it sure felt like 101hp gain

Tim

 

[jamesroney]

...disclaimer... I am NOT a... motor head.

It appears to be a 74 out of a Maverick. D4DE... It's easier to see in person

This statement is incorrect.

The D4DE-6015-AA was the engine block used in various applications that needed a 302 from 1974 to 1979.

It could be the correct "numbers matching" block for your 1977 Bronco.

It still has its Thermactor ports in the head, and the thermactor bracket holding the alternator. Along with the EGR. It looks to me like I see a "7" in the date code, but you cut off the picture.

If that date code is a "7", then for certain is that it didn't come out of a 74 Maverick.

I'm going to guess that it was the original engine from the 77 Bronco. But need the casting date, and the assembly stamp, and the last 5 of the VIN to know for sure.

People will tell you that there are no "numbers matching" for a Bronco. Those people are idiots and drive Chevrolets.

There are numbers on a Ford engine. It is possible for those numbers to be incorrect to the vehicle. So it is possible that the numbers do NOT match. If you can have numbers that don't match...then you most certainly have numbers that do match. Every Bronco has a numbers matching engine. Unfortunately, there's about a one month supply of matching engines.

 

[msmith]

I wouldn't put a dime into a 1970's random smog 302. Low HP and compression. JMO....I took my old 302 to the scrap yard and haven't looked back.

That said, if it's running good I would bot crack it open or do anything other than give it a rattle can rebuild and drive it till it starts to have issues while saving a few bucks towards the motor swap later on.

What size tires? I ask because gears are 100hp upgrade in some rigs. When I changed gears it sure felt like 101hp gain

Tim

Going to probably run 33s. Already swapped the front 3.50 gears for 4.10. Going to get a 4.11 with Track loc third member.

 

[m_m70]

Going to get a 4.11 with Track loc third member.

You'll like that!

 

[Broncobowsher]

I wouldn't put a dime into a 1970's random smog 302. Low HP and compression. JMO....I took my old 302 to the scrap yard and haven't looked back.

That said, if it's running good I would bot crack it open or do anything other than give it a rattle can rebuild and drive it till it starts to have issues while saving a few bucks towards the motor swap later on.

What size tires? I ask because gears are 100hp upgrade in some rigs. When I changed gears it sure felt like 101hp gain

Tim

I would put a little into that engine. Oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, front and rear seals. Inspect the bearings while the pan is off and guess at how shot they are. At one time you could get a cheap rebuild kit with gaskets, bearings, and rings. Don't dig as far as the rings, that is too much work for that engine. But a set of stock sized bearings (don't check clearances, you won't like what you see) if you find a cheap set. If feeling frisky, a high volume oil pump.
Something that will wake that stock engine up a little bit, put a fresh generic timing chain on. One thing it will get rid of the factory retarded cam timing since they intentionally cut the keyway to run the cam late (retarded, and that is the correct name for it). And the stretched chain makes it run even more retarded. Fresh straight up timing chain will bring the cam timing back to normal pre-emissions tune. Ignore that the cam bearings are probably bad. Don't think about pulling the heads. The fresh gaskets are mainly to keep the leaks on the driveway from annoying you.

 

[Timmy390]

33's and 4.11's is what I run. Ran it with stock 3 speed and really liked it. I run a M5ODR2 now and still really like it

Tim

 

[msmith]

33's and 4.11's is what I run. Ran it with stock 3 speed and really liked it. I run a M5ODR2 now and still really like it

Tim

I'm rebuilding the RAT and Dana 20 for now. I've been keeping my eyes peeled for a 150 with the M5ODR2 or something with a ZF.

I found an Explorer with a 5.0 that "runs good" 200k on it for $800. I might make an offer if it has usable serpentine parts just for options. I have a friend that is a mechanic. He has a partial colon and a hernia. At about 62 years old he finally gave up and shut his business down to take disability retirement. He still does some side jobs so I might enlist him for a rebuild to give him some extra spending cash.

Timmy, I just noticed you're in Conway. I've been making 2-4 trips a year to Searcy & Little Rock. Was just in LR, Benton, & Arkadelphia a couple of weeks ago.

 

[pcf_mark]

I'm a huge fan of used Explorer 5.0 engines. With 150k the cylinders still look great. You get roller valvetrain, p style heads and 225 HP.

 

[cldonley]

That 77 302 put out about 135 horsepower when new. The Exploder 5.0 would give you a really nice boost, and you can't beat the serpentine, big alternator and all the other goodies. I would agree with Bowsher, but you could do the same thing with the 5.0 and be miles ahead too, depending on your budget.

 

[Timmy390]

I'm rebuilding the RAT and Dana 20 for now. I've been keeping my eyes peeled for a 150 with the M5ODR2 or something with a ZF.

I found an Explorer with a 5.0 that "runs good" 200k on it for $800. I might make an offer if it has usable serpentine parts just for options. I have a friend that is a mechanic. He has a partial colon and a hernia. At about 62 years old he finally gave up and shut his business down to take disability retirement. He still does some side jobs so I might enlist him for a rebuild to give him some extra spending cash.

Timmy, I just noticed you're in Conway. I've been making 2-4 trips a year to Searcy & Little Rock. Was just in LR, Benton, & Arkadelphia a couple of weeks ago.

$800 for a running V8 Explorer is a good deal IMO. That's abut what I paid for my 1996 E350 van I used as my 351W donor. With the explorer you get SO many options for later as in EFI.

I'm up and down I-40 and I-30 all the time. My deer camp is south of Benton in Malvern.

Tim

 

[cldonley]

$800 for a running V8 Explorer is a good deal IMO. That's abut what I paid for my 1996 E350 van I used as my 351W donor. With the explorer you get SO many options for later as in EFI.

I'm up and down I-40 and I-30 all the time. My deer camp is south of Benton in Malvern.

Tim

Did my practical for my Private Pilot license in Malvern a long, long time ago! I was working on jets at the Hot Springs airport.

 

[Timmy390]

Did my practical for my Private Pilot license in Malvern a long, long time ago! I was working on jets at the Hot Springs airport.

Small world.......

Tim

 

[msmith]

$800 for a running V8 Explorer is a good deal IMO. That's abut what I paid for my 1996 E350 van I used as my 351W donor. With the explorer you get SO many options for later as in EFI.

I'm up and down I-40 and I-30 all the time. My deer camp is south of Benton in Malvern.

Tim

I may go this route as I am finding more explorers with 5.0 close by than I had anticipated. Are there any concerns going the Explorer 302 route other than exhaust manifolds for the gt40p heads. Would I be able to recycle my current flywheel for the 3 speed? I'm thinking I could recoup most of the initial investment by parting out the tranny, wheels, tires, and efi and have a roller block and serpentine system for very little $$.

 

[.94 OR]

Flywheel weight is different between the two. Explorer will be automatic, sounds like you run a manual anyway.

 

[Timmy390]

Flywheel weight is different between the two. Explorer will be automatic, sounds like you run a manual anyway.

Yup.......

I think this one will work but verify verify verify.
https://tomsoffroad.com/parts/66-77-ford-bronco-v8-50-oz-clutch-flywheel

Tim