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EVAP Routing

FoMoCoBronCo

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2023
Messages
69
Working on my carbureted ‘71 302. I followed a combination of posts on this forum to setup my EVAP system and get rid of the pesky gas smell in my garage. It’s helped a ton, but I’d like some confirmation / clarification that I have this routed properly.

I have 2 vent lines off my tanks running into a tee, then to a rollover valve, then onto the front nipple of my charcoal canister. (The other nipple is capped). I have one of my charcoal chambers capped with a mushroom cap, and the other is running to a bung on my edelbrock air cleaner via that aluminum accordion Gates hose.

I had a mechanic friend comment that he was concerned that by connecting the CC to the air cleaner in that configuration, I could introduce vacuum to the vent lines and pull fuel through them. Could anyone confirm or refute that? Also, is it appropriate to have one of the chambers capped with a mushroom cap like I do?

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904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,834
Loc.
San Martin, CA
Based on my experience and working on EB's for a number of years, this (your current set-up) is how Ford did it on the 76-77 models.
The only time there will be any kind of vacuum (negative area) is when you are on wide open Throttle. With an open air cleaner there is not much of an issue.
Most of the time it is just a passive air space where venting tank gases can be drawn into the motor and burned. I believe the mushroom cap prevents you putting a vacuum to the tank and pulling out fuel in the vent line. Doug.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,235
What Doug said.
There’s no hard vacuum in the air cleaner assembly, so it’s just enough to pull the fumes in, not enough to suck liquid gas from the tank into the charcoal canister.
And, as said, it’s exactly how Ford did it.
Well, other than a different cleaner assembly, of course.
And the mushroom cap is not literally capping it off. It’s simply a way of leaving it open, but blocking any debris from getting in.
 
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FoMoCoBronCo

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2023
Messages
69
[mention]DirtDonk [/mention] [mention]904Bronco [/mention] thanks for the validation guys! There are some other threads in here that I followed, and I was pretty sure it was right, but always good to check and make sure.


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Moon's74

Full Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2007
Messages
157
Loc.
Henderson, NV
I hope this is working for you FoMoCoBronCo! My apologies for the hijack here but I have the same, as everyone else, ongoing battle with how to hook up all the vents.
I have the WH 23gal EFI tank assembly. It has the 2 evap lines and the vent line from the fuel pump assembly.
I believe this solution may work for me by ulitilizing the 2 evap lines into the stock lines and through the plastic tank into the small tab on the charcoal canister. Then run the vent line from the fuel pump up to the larger tab on the charcoal canister.
Then use the same mushroom cap on the same charcoal chamber and the other charcoal chamber to my intake box on the fender well for my EFI intake. This would be all pre air filter. Should it be put in the air line post MAF?

Does that sound like it would do the job? Based on everything I've read in these forums, and I'm under no illusion that I've read it all, this should do the trick without using the purge valves and such electronically.

BTW, I have a 74, hence the name, with an explorer EFI setup and custom air box with the above fuel tank assembly. Please give whatever feedback may be necessary to fix me and my simple mind.
Thanks FoMoCoBronCo for the post.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,235
I have the WH 23gal EFI tank assembly.
Which tank? The M1A1, or the Sherman?
It has the 2 evap lines and the vent line from the fuel pump assembly.
Sounds like the Sherman? If so, are you sure that the top vent is actually a "vent" and not the fuel return line fitting?
Been awhile since I messed with a Sherman, but if you have pictures, that would be great. I've got some around here, but you might be able to post yours before I can find mine!
I believe this solution may work for me by ulitilizing the 2 evap lines into the stock lines and through the plastic tank into the small tab on the charcoal canister.
Probably correct. Sounds like you're retaining the condensing/recovery tank in the cab? Are you still using your stock metal charcoal canister, or updating to the higher mounted plastic one? If the latter, then you might as well remove the inside-the-cab tank. Unless you just don't want to.
It'll work either way.
Just make sure that you utilize the existing line that originally went to the canister from the plastic tank. There were two from the main tank, and one from the aux. tank (do you have two tanks?). But only one from the main tank was a "vent" where the other was a "liquid return" line.
If you still have the original line routing, just connect the two from the main tank to the new tank, the original one to the aux tank, and the remaining one that ran along the frame to the charcoal canister.
Then run the vent line from the fuel pump up to the larger tab on the charcoal canister.
Whoa there! Vent line on the fuel pump? Negatory there morning glory. Nothing on our vehicles ever goes from a fuel pump to the charcoal canister.
Do you have a specialized fuel pump? Or one from another application where there is a separate canister on the pump? Or maybe even one of the early vacuum pumps for vacuum wipers?
Got a pic of yours?
Then use the same mushroom cap on the same charcoal chamber and the other charcoal chamber to my intake box on the fender well for my EFI intake. This would be all pre air filter.
The mushroom cap is for the unused large port. Just slip it in and don't try to attach anything additional to it. That what you were saying?
The other large port will go to the air box. Great that you have one! Do you have pictures of it you can post up? An air box is the perfect location for the canister venting.
Should it be put in the air line post MAF?
Nope, do it just like you said before. In to, or ahead of the air filter element. I don't have an enclosure/box, so will put a fitting into the base of the air filter itself. With your enclosed box, you can easily fit it to the box and avoid most of the fumes that might not make it immediately into the engine. While the engine is running, it should all get sucked in. While the engine is off, an open element cleaner can still let some fumes out. Less than if you just vented your canister to the outside, but some might still escape.
But it's sounding like you've got the perfect setup for this.
Does that sound like it would do the job? Based on everything I've read in these forums, and I'm under no illusion that I've read it all, this should do the trick without using the purge valves and such electronically.
Correct. Should work perfectly.
BTW, I have a 74, hence the name, with an explorer EFI setup and custom air box with the above fuel tank assembly.
Sounds like you've got all that you need to retain your original system. If you have, or will in the future, change to the '76/'77 style of plastic canister like pictured above, you can completely eliminate the plastic tank inside the cabin and never have fumes inside again from a leaky tank.
You can also use just one vent line from your tank, and cap off the other one. After all, one was a vent originally, and the second was a simple return line for condensed vapors to return to the main tank as liquid.

Paul
 
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