Explorer 5.0L new fuel line parts - wrong approach?

[skrit]

Specs:
Return-less fuel system - single connection on fuel rail
Explorer OEM in-tank fuel pump and regulator
Stock 5.0L build
I'm assuming the OEM fuel line diameter is 5/16 (will check when I get home - I have a few pieces)

Not wanting braided, no wanting AN fittings, don't see a need for hard lines - just super simple. Here are items in my Summit cart. Let me know if this is the wrong approach.

 

[toddz69]

Yes, 5/16" is what you want.

For the fuel line adapter, I'd use an AN adapter at the rail and then one of the Earl's Vapor Guard hose adapters instead of the Dorman adapter but that's just me. I think I'd also go with the common GM fuel filter with AN adapters for the same reason. A little cleaner and easier for disassembly if needed.

And not sure how much Vapor Guard hose you're using but I have a nice roll at home (brand new) that I'm not going to be using if interested. And some of the aforementioned fittings as well.

Todd Z.

 

[Broncobowsher]

That fuel filter won't work correctly without adapters. The vapor guard hose (barrier hose) doesn't like the sharp barbs, the rounded barbs are a better match. Doesn't pierce the inner barrier liner of the hose.

 

[skrit]

Yes, 5/16" is what you want.

For the fuel line adapter, I'd use an AN adapter at the rail and then one of the Earl's Vapor Guard hose adapters instead of the Dorman adapter but that's just me. I think I'd also go with the common GM fuel filter with AN adapters for the same reason. A little cleaner and easier for disassembly if needed.

And not sure how much Vapor Guard hose you're using but I have a nice roll at home (brand new) that I'm not going to be using if interested. And some of the aforementioned fittings as well.

Todd Z.

That's a nice offer @toddz69 . The length I have in the cart is 10' which I think should be all I need. Probably not worth your hassle to ship it. Noted on the fuel filter and fuel rail adapter to use AN style. Here's the revised cart (hose clamps not shown): The Earl's 5/16-6AN quick connect is for the hardline coming off the OEM in-tank fuel pump. The Russell is for the OEM 5.0L fuel rail.

 

[skrit]

That fuel filter won't work correctly without adapters. The vapor guard hose (barrier hose) doesn't like the sharp barbs, the rounded barbs are a better match. Doesn't pierce the inner barrier liner of the hose.

Got it - thanks for the heads up.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I would change the filter to a Wix 33481 with the correct adapters. Serviceable at any parts store. If you clog that Summit filter in a few years you are parked until you get another. The Wix is a super common GM filter from 80s and 90s on any of the EFI stuff. Good filter and high flow.

 

[skrit]

Whelp... I've been known to get things wrong on occasion. I DO have a return in my fuel system. Too many irons in the fire i guess and I'm jumping from one thing to the next.

As you can see, the old fuel pump clearly has 2 lines as well as the fuel rail. Why did I order the wrong one? And I found the oem engine bay fuel lines in the trash can!

...jeez, I need to lay off the beer when I'm in the garage.

 

[toddz69]

That's a nice offer @toddz69 . The length I have in the cart is 10' which I think should be all I need. Probably not worth your hassle to ship it. Noted on the fuel filter and fuel rail adapter to use AN style. Here's the revised cart (hose clamps not shown): The Earl's 5/16-6AN quick connect is for the hardline coming off the OEM in-tank fuel pump. The Russell is for the OEM 5.0L fuel rail.
View attachment 935286

Now you're talking.....and get the fuel filter I mentioned (and @Broncobowsher provided the PN for) and you should be good. Although now you'll need another adapter for the fuel rail since you have two!

Todd Z.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The GM filter uses an O-ring seal. I know it is metric, but forget the size. It is also the same fitting as some power steering lines.

 

[toddz69]

They use the 16mm x 1.5 o-ring adapters like, as you said, are often used in power steering and hydroboost conversions.

A complete kit looks like this:

https://hotrodfuelhose.com/products/factory-style-inline-fuel-filter-w-an6-fittings

Todd Z.

 

[skrit]

They use the 16mm x 1.5 o-ring adapters like, as you said, are often used in power steering and hydroboost conversions.

A complete kit looks like this:

https://hotrodfuelhose.com/products/factory-style-inline-fuel-filter-w-an6-fittings

Todd Z.

Excellent resource @toddz69. Just curious though. If I have a barb style filter like the motorcraft/AC Delco/Carquest connected with 2 hose clamps, wouldn't it be easier to find a replacement off the shelf and quicker to replace than with AN adapters which would require putting some sort of swivel in to keep the lines from twisting when wrenching?

 

[toddz69]

Finding the filters on the shelf at the local auto parts store is probably a wash. They're likely to be equally available at most stores these days. If you slide the lines onto the filter and use a couple of hose clamps, which will work, I can guarantee when you want to replace the filter years later, the line will likely be almost fused on there and you'll have to tug a lot and maybe use a pick or a screwdriver to get it off the filter fitting. With the Vapor Guard fittings/AN adapters, you'll be able to get it loose quickly (11/16" wrench) and whatever you need to keep the adapter in place in the filter while you break the hose fitting loose. The "swivel" in the connection is the nut on the end of the fitting attached to the hose. There are fittings that don't swivel, but you wouldn't use them here.


This is what you'd use:

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose_ends/vapor_guard/parts/750156ERL

You have them in your basket above.

Todd Z.

 

[skrit]

Finding the filters on the shelf at the local auto parts store is probably a wash. They're likely to be equally available at most stores these days. If you slide the lines onto the filter and use a couple of hose clamps, which will work, I can guarantee when you want to replace the filter years later, the line will likely be almost fused on there and you'll have to tug a lot and maybe use a pick or a screwdriver to get it off the filter fitting. With the Vapor Guard fittings/AN adapters, you'll be able to get it loose quickly (11/16" wrench) and whatever you need to keep the adapter in place in the filter while you break the hose fitting loose. The "swivel" in the connection is the nut on the end of the fitting attached to the hose. There are fittings that don't swivel, but you wouldn't use them here.


This is what you'd use:

https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/hose_ends/vapor_guard/parts/750156ERL

You have them in your basket above.

Todd Z.

Sweet. Thanks Todd! I'll post pics, a diagram and a list of parts used once I order and install it all.

 

[ntsqd]

I've been using the GM EFI filter for almost a decade (?) now. Filters I buy locally, fittings mostly from Summit or Orme Bros. I buy fuel fittings in anodized aluminum and not in plated steel. Too likely to rust from the water in the fuel that the corn alcohol has picked up.

I have also started buying all of the hose ends and various fittings in two different colors. One color is only used on the supply, and the other is only used on the return.

I'm guessing that those suggested hose ends require a hose clamp. Since they do not have to come loose to disconnect anything I'll suggest that you consider going with Oetiker clamps there. They're cleaner and lower profile than a worm drive or a pinch-bolt hose clamp. And they can be used on way to many other things. I bought a selection of clamps and the install tool off of amazon.

Filter replacement is break each hose end loose from the adapters, no need to remove them. Then unscrew the adapters from the filter. Reverse to install the new filter.

 

[skrit]

Maybe I upgrade to a twist on canister fuel water filter seperater and be done with it?

 

[skrit]

Maybe I upgrade to a twist on canister fuel water filter seperater and be done with it?

Nevermind...seems to not be common for automotive applications. I have one on my boat so that's why I thought of it.

 

[ntsqd]

Like this? (The capped-off black fitting is the future return line.)

That is what the Bronc-up has had since I replaced the temporary, all rubber hose fuel system that it came to me with. I've put one of those on several project vehicles and one employer had one on their ancient forklift. I've never felt the need to replace any of those filters. Short of a slug of water getting into the system I've no idea what the service interval might be, but it's a LOT of miles.

I looked into these filters quite a bit some time ago. You can buy a version that is 4 micron, so OK to use with EFI. They don't draw from the bottom of the filter or anywhere near it, so you can't assume that the volume of fuel in the filter is any sort of "accumulator" should the pick-up in the tank come uncovered for whatever reason. While you could modify the filter pad with a "draw-straw" to try to use this volume as a small accumulator, it can't go more than a little short of halfway down the height of the filter because of the way that the filter is constructed.

 

[skrit]

Like this? (The capped-off black fitting is the future return line.)

That is what the Bronc-up has had since I replaced the temporary, all rubber hose fuel system that it came to me with. I've put one of those on several project vehicles and one employer had one on their ancient forklift. I've never felt the need to replace any of those filters. Short of a slug of water getting into the system I've no idea what the service interval might be, but it's a LOT of miles.

I looked into these filters quite a bit some time ago. You can buy a version that is 4 micron, so OK to use with EFI. They don't draw from the bottom of the filter or anywhere near it, so you can't assume that the volume of fuel in the filter is any sort of "accumulator" should the pick-up in the tank come uncovered for whatever reason. While you could modify the filter pad with a "draw-straw" to try to use this volume as a small accumulator, it can't go more than a little short of halfway down the height of the filter because of the way that the filter is constructed.

That is what I had in mind but decided just to go with the GM style inline with the adapters and AN fittings. Ordered everything last night and was much more expensive then I thought it would be. Now I have buyers remorse thinking I should have gone with BC's hard line kit or made my own Nicop lines. Oh well.

 

[ntsqd]

That truck is plumbed using 3/8" nylon tubing into "Poke-n-Hope" type Wash-Down fittings for the longer runs. Plumbing well done costs more than doing a mediocre job by a large amount. The good news is that you shouldn't ever need to get into the system unless you're changing the design.