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Explorer EFI Mass Buy Feeler.

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
Is there any way to use an OB2 on a fox body 5.0? Since they are very similar?

I think you will need the Explorer EFI parts for their sensors and controls.

Ford changed stuff a lot from OBD1 to OBD2.

The block, heads etc. should work.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,740
Unless that wire in your new harness has power when the key is in START, then you need both.
I'm sure Doug is more the expert, and has done his just recently, but in a "typical" EFI installation you use both wires.

The wire that's there now is from the chassis harness and tells the starter to spin when you turn the key (obviously) so unless that other new wire can do the same trick, it has to work in addition to the existing one.
The existing one, if the stock harness, should be a Red w/blue stripe wire. What color is the new one?

I suppose the easy way to find out if you don't get an answer from Garry right away, would be to simply disconnect the original wire and replace it with your new one.
If nothing happens when you turn the key to START, then you know you have to keep the old one.

Make sense?;D

Paul
 

doghows72

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 5, 2005
Messages
2,036
Ok just wanted to share, I heard back from Garry and the answer is to eliminate the stock wire and use the one he provided.
On some harnesses that wire will be under the dash depending on your wiring options that we set in our orders.
Thanks Garry you da EFI guy for sure!

Here's where I'm at so far!!
 
Last edited:

stupidboy

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Are the harnesses still on hold? I'm in need of one reworked for a toyota pickup, I have a 96 explorer donor.
 

Papa Turdly

New Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
16
96-97bulkhead_zpsbd54beff.jpg

So, I just grabbed this portion of harness from my '97 Mountaineer and I have a dumb question, but I don't want to screw it up. The wires that went to the headlights can be removed completely from the harnes, correct? I am swapping this motor into a 1988 Jeep Comanche and am will use the existing chassis harness. I hate electrical wiring, but am going to force myself to learn during this swap.

Thanks,

Ken
 
OP
OP
EFI Guy

EFI Guy

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Correct. You won't use any wiring forward of the cut line. Only the wiring necessary to run the engine and trans are saved.
 
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EFI Guy

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garberz

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Jun 24, 2007
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Conejo Valley, Ca.
I just thought I'd share a good deal I found with anyone who watches this thread. I was originally going to run a V6 Explorer radiator myself until I found this. I pulled the trigger on it because it doesn't have plastic side tanks like an Explorer radiator, and it costs about the same. This sale ends tonight...http://www.cjponyparts.com/radiator-aluminum-3-row-5-0l-engine-swap-bronco-1966-1977/p/RADA75/

Just be aware that the trans cooler is on the hot side of the radiator. If you were planning on using it with the trans.

Mark
 

sykanr0ng

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Aug 11, 2014
Messages
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A shame no one makes one with the inlet/outlet like that in copper/brass.

I don't consider an aluminum radiator a good choice for off-road.
 
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EFI Guy

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Just be aware that the trans cooler is on the hot side of the radiator. If you were planning on using it with the trans.

Mark

I did notice that after the fact. I expected to need an aftermarket cooler anyway. But, I might just try it as is first since I can monitor trans temp through OBD2.

A shame no one makes one with the inlet/outlet like that in copper/brass.

I don't consider an aluminum radiator a good choice for off-road.

Why do you not like aluminum for wheeling, flex? That's why I was trying to avoid plastic side tanks.
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
5,363
Why do you not like aluminum for wheeling, flex? That's why I was trying to avoid plastic side tanks.

Yes, flex is the problem.
The core support in a Bronco moves a lot when off-roading and aluminum has very little resistance to metal fatigue when compared to copper/brass.

Add to that copper/brass can be repaired with solder and a propane or butane torch on the trail should it get damaged.
 

chuzie

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Messages
2,701
My Ron Davis gagillion dollar radiator has a fracture going down the tank where the tubes meet. It is propagating vertically and I suspect, one day, it will blow. BarsLeaks is the only thing keeping it from leaking. I am confident it is the off road flex that did it and have since made my radiator mounts nice and sloppy, but it won't be enough. Got a Champion sitting in a box in the garage ready to go after the RD blows. Yes it is aluminum and I don't care because nothing cools like AL and I will destroy them one after another from playing on the rocks because I still get years of use out of them.
 

sykanr0ng

Bronco Guru
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Aug 11, 2014
Messages
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If you are going to use aluminum then do like Viperwolf1 said, consider them disposable and go for the cheap ones (the 4.0 V6 Explorer)

Buy those for about $100 and use until them they go bad then replace.

Aluminum doesn't cool better or worse, it's just cheaper for the OEM's.
 
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EFI Guy

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Hey EFI Guy have you ever did a explorer rework and setup the pcm for a supercharger.

I have not supercharged one....YET.
My Mustang which is running Explorer EFI will get a S/C soon. My bronco might get one as well (since I have a few laying around).

I wouldn't want to mail order a supercharged tune. But, I'll be releasing a new product fairly soon that will let me tune them via e-mail. ;D
 

Wyflyer

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Apr 1, 2008
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2,920
The guy in San Antonio who rebuilt my 5.0 was telling me about tuning race engines via the internet, while the customer was between races at the track in California.
 
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EFI Guy

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I do it all the time with the Mustang stuff. But it's crazy expensive to do with the Explorer stuff currently, and most people are just doing stockish swaps. This new product will save the tune to an SD card and flash the PCM for you. It will also save datalogs to the SD card that can be e-mailed to me to review for changes.
 
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