Extra cooling

[Bronkster]

I've got the 5.8 EFI installed and running (waiting to get in to local tune shop to get it dialed) but it's going to need all the help I can give it to keep it cool in the sand turning paddles. I've got an edelbrock water pump, a 160 tstat and a high efficiency 4 core from Jeff's. My question is.... before I buy an aluminum radiator from 1 of the vendors, is there something that guys have found that can be made to fit with more surface? Is an aluminum radiator from 1 of the Bronco supply houses going to make that much difference? I also have the highest cfm electric puller fan from Summit that I could fit in there. I have already cut a fair amount of the core support to fit this set up, so I will further modify if someone has the perfect solution. Thanks for any help.

 

[broncnaz]

Go back to a mechanical fan. Some people like the rigid type, I like the flex type. Put in a 195 degree t stat. that 160 is a big part of your problem as once it opens it doesnt close and the water will not cool off the 195 will give the water more time to cool in the radiator and the hatter water will transfer more heat. Most electric fans dont work well in broncos.

 

[rtreads]

I would say try a taurus fan. I too have a 5.8 with EFI and found that to be the biggest, and I do mean BIGGEST, thing I have ever done to keep it cool. And I dont have any fancy radiator or water pump. I have a 180 deg stat and that fan. On high, at ANY speed driving/parked, I never see a temp over 187. And they are CHEAP! But do your self a favor and DO NOT run the power to the relay, and you MUST run a relay for the high speed, off your typical in line buss fuse holder. Make sure you use large gauge wire, 12+! I had a fuse holder from NAPA and it melted due to the 30+ amp draw from the fan on high! It sucked when that happened 200 miles into a 300 mile trip from Denver to Ouray. Oh, and cary extra fuses. I bought a small car stereo amp fuse holder with a 40 amp fuse to fix the problem.

 

[Socal Tom]

What Naz says, Mechanical fan like the race fans sold by derale and flexalite, they pull lots of air, don't bend and are fairly slim. 195 stat, the greater the difference between the hot water and the cool air the faster the cooling. With a 160 stat your engine needs a 60 degree day to cool as well as mine does on a 95 degree day.
Also make sure that the heater valve is closed, so you aren't bypassing the thermostat. The other thing to do is make sure that the water pump pulley is no bigger than the crank pulley.
Tom

 

[Bronkster]

I'll start with the 195 tstat. I don't think I could fit a mechanical fan in there. I took the heater bypass valve out, but have the hoses going through the heater core. The water pump pulley is a little larger than the crank pulley. Is that part of the problem?

 

[77bronco_ed]

According to Chuck @ BCB he mentioned that you can get a little better results (30% more efficient) going with a pulley slightly smaller that the Crank pulley. ie 5 3/8 over the 6" pulley. He also mentioned he would rather not go with Aluminum rad on Broncos. (rigid)

You will need a good electric fan, Tarus requires mods for installation. How much distance do you have from pump to rad?



-Ed

 

[Bronkster]

30% is a big improvement, so I'll measure the difference between the 2 pulleys tomorrow. Where would I get the smaller pulley?

 

[av bronco]

the smaller wp pulley helps, not 30% but a little.

 

[Socal Tom]

You should put a valve in the heater line and close it.
Tom

 

[Bronkster]

I thought by taking the heater valve out, coolant would always flow through the heater core helping the situation. No?

 

[Socal Tom]

Maybe, but probably not

When the heater fan is running fan and water is going through the heater core it does help take some heat out of the system, but with the fan off and the vent closed, then its not going to do much. I'kk be surprised if you want heat going full blast all the time.

If the fan is off, then what you are doing is bypassing the thermostat. So its kind of like you have no thermostat. Also, if its cold enough, the heater core can make the engine too cold and it won't make the horsepower it should. I would actually suggest if you want to keep the heater core in the loop, close the valve until the engine warms up, then open it. And if the temp drops below 180 or 195 then close it back down, other wise your thermostat is doing noting.
Tom