Fender flares

[Jakedog]

I need some advice on installing gorilla war flares. They don't have pre drilled holes, and I don't have a template. They were included when I bought the bronco.
Whats the Best way to make sure the screws are evenly spaced?

 

[idus25]

I used a fabric tape measure and a grease pencil. 3-4 inches spaced. Grease pencil wipes off. Blue tape it where you want, stand back look at grease, if you like... get out the drill.

 

[Scoop]

I need some advice on installing gorilla war flares. They don't have pre drilled holes, and I don't have a template. They were included when I bought the bronco.
Whats the Best way to make sure the screws are evenly spaced?

Mark then with a ruler on the flare and pre-drill before you mount. (I think I used a 3 inch spacing.) Find the top center first and make sure the top center hole is in the same place on both sides. There is no "standard mounting position" for the Gorilla flare - they stretch and bend to fit as needed for however big an opening you want. I mount mine with button head zip screws (I think they come with the Gorilla flares). You can go back later and install SS hex head bolts and nuts one at a time if you want a better installation. Only tricky part is cutting out for the gas cap if you mount them high and what to do at the rear bottom body line.

 

[Jakedog]

Do they normally come with the rubber backing like the fiberglass flares do?

 

[ren71]

Normally yes (Bushwacker or Toms at least) but some are more plasticky (TBP) than rubbery. I had to do pie cuts on my plasticky welting to make them conform to the radius of the flares.

Do they normally come with the rubber backing like the fiberglass flares do?

 

[Scoop]

Do they normally come with the rubber backing like the fiberglass flares do?

Yes, Gorilla flares do come with welting. A lot of people (most?) don't use it.

 

[Rustytruck]

I taped the gorilla flair where the screws go. I used a compass set to 3". I started with the screw holes at the rear body line at the lower wheel well set in the low spot and spaced every 3 inches out from there. I did not and would not use the supplied fender welting. The fit of the flair to the body is extremely well done. I low mounted them as designed. It is much more important to get the top of the flairs with even spacing with the body line and not mounted crooked. Crooked flairs stick out like a sore thumb if they are not painted the same body color. Remember to step back and look at the whole picture before you start drilling a gazillion holes. I used a leather hole punch to punch the hole in the polyurethane flair and used that to guide my drill for the sheet metal.
I wanted the flairs to look good without any drilling mishaps.

http://www.harborfreight.com/leather-punch-tool-97715.html

 

[AZ73]

I marked the holes on the flair with a 3 inch compass as Rusty did, but drilled them in the flairs first. Then I used "C" clamp type vice grips to clamp and adjust on the fenders to my liking, making sure they were parallel with fender seams and the same distance from them at the top. Then I made sure the DS and PS matched the distance from the ends of the fenders and quarter panels on both sides. Once I was happy, I drilled through one of the holes in the flair and into the metal, put a 10-32 button head screw in, then started working my way through all the holes.

 

[Jakedog]

Thanks for the ideas!

 

[WILDHORSES]

Nothing uglier than an bad install on flares. doesn't matter the brand. Make them level. The installer is in charge of the outcome. I prefer a 3" rivot or screw spacing but with the Warflares you get to decide what you like. If you want welting and screws here's a link to ours. Call today before noon and you should have it tomorrow.
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Flare_welting_screws

Jim