Fixing what I can fix and driving it

[daddycreswell]

I've had my 73 for 12 years August of this year, I have put 2k miles on it during that time. 2 reason, I never felt super safe driving it any futher that around town and using the excuse of cleaning out around it to drive it. I drove it today to work, last driven on Thanksgiving. 12 pumps of the pedal and it fired right up, warmed up and took off, ran like a top. So I decided I am going to fix what I can fix, drive it and fix the rest when the funds are there. I have disc conversion I have had since 2013, going to install next week, installing new PS pump and putting new tires on it. Like most Broncos it wonders while driving it. So when I got home I took some video of the front end. The steering wheel moves easy while no running, so from what you can see on the attached video where do I need to start. I figure bushing and not sure what else I need Let me know if you can't see the video or need to see more. Thanks.

Front end.

 

[Ol'Blue]

Your tie rod and drag link are definitely rotating without tire movement contributing to the steering wheel play. You might be able to loosen the tie rod ends at the knuckles, rotate the drag link end up more, pointing approximately to bottom of the radiator then lock down the tie rod ends. This might help with the steering wheel play but I don't think it will help with the wondering much. Dirtdonk taught me this and will be able to provide better instructions.

If you can you take another video with someone turning the steering wheel more aggressively to the left and right to the point it turns the tires some? Take video of each of the tie rod ends, each of the drag link end and knuckles.

This might help pinpoint any loose parts but the key is to have good caster numbers. Do you have any alignment info?

 

[daddycreswell]

Your tie rod and drag link are definitely rotating without tire movement contributing to the steering wheel play. You might be able to loosen the tie rod ends at the knuckles, rotate the drag link end up more, pointing approximately to bottom of the radiator then lock down the tie rod ends. This might help with the steering wheel play but I don't think it will help with the wondering much. Dirtdonk taught me this and will be able to provide better instructions.

If you can you take another video with someone turning the steering wheel more aggressively to the left and right to the point it turns the tires some? Take video of each of the tie rod ends, each of the drag link end and knuckles.

This might help pinpoint any loose parts but the key is to have good caster numbers. Do you have any alignment info?

Thanks, no I have no alignment info. I will get another video and post it.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

 

[distended]

Maybe it's just the video but the tie rod looked bent to me.

 

[daddycreswell]

Maybe it's just the video but the tie rod looked bent to me.

I'll try to get a better video, and some pictures.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

 

[distended]

I'll try to get a better video, and some pictures.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

I'd believe you if you said it wasn't bent. At least yours runs and drives so you're two up on me.

 

[daddycreswell]

I'd believe you if you said it wasn't bent. At least yours runs and drives so you're two up on me.

Well TBH I'm not sure if it is or not. More eyes the better.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

 

[gr8scott]

Maybe it's just the video but the tie rod looked bent to me.

It does look bent. And his trackbar/draglink aren't parallel to each other.

 

[gr8scott]

This would fix the angle of your drag link with your 3.5" suspension lift.

66-75 Drop Pitman Arm

66-75 Drop Pitman Arm. WILD HORSES can't leave well enough alone. After years of custom steering work and filing more pitman arm key ways than you can shake a stick at, we decided to develop our own fully indexed pitman arms. Most pitman arms can only be installed in one spot on the steering...

www.wildhorses4x4.com

 

[Yeller]

I’d convert that to TRO and drive it. It does look bent.

Vehicles that get driven don’t get lost in the day to day shuffle. Even if not “perfect” they maintain that mystery of fun and excitement. Fix what it absolutely necessary to be safe and drive it. brakes, steering, and enough that it starts and runs decent and put miles on it and make memories and smiles.

PS: I’m guilty of not driving mine as much as I would like too

 

[daddycreswell]

This doesn't look good either. I think all new bushings and maybe a new tie rod install is needed.

 

[Yeller]

Yes, those are replaceable and not really helping the situation.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Fyi, the steering box will have play with the engine off. The spool valve that directs hydraulic flow needs that little play. There is a torsion spring that keeps things centered.

 

[daddycreswell]

Fyi, the steering box will have play with the engine off. The spool valve that directs hydraulic flow needs that little play. There is a torsion spring that keeps things centered.

As much play as you see? I just want to make sure everything is up to snuff under there.

 

[DirtDonk]

You definitely need to fix the angle between the draglink and the trackbar. No matter how you do it, they both need to be at least a little more parallel, and the draglink definitely needs to be at a lower angle.
The steep angle due to the lifted suspension and still using a stock pitman arm is heavily contributing to the tie-rod ends rotating before moving the wheels/tires. The steep angle causes the draglink to pull up and push down, rather than impart a more sideways movement.
Rotating the tie-rod like 'Ol Blue mentioned is not an option in your case, because your stock steering setup has only one adjusting sleeve at one end. So no ability to change that aspect.
The rod ends are also probably older and worn. Not necessarily worn out, but certainly looser than when new. So this awkward movement will happen even more with looser rod ends.

Definitely lower the draglink angle. Either by swapping in a dropped pitman arm (easier and less expensive), or doing the Tie-Rod Over conversion as suggested.
The problem with TRO is that it's a set amount and might not be just right do match things to your situation. Necessitating still other modifications. It's a legit and beneficial mod, but it's not just a flip-it-and-go proposition.

Take a measurement of your trackbar drop bracket's hole locations to see how much drop it added to your upper mount. If you know what brand it is, it might be best to get the dropped arm from the same company. Not 100% necessary, but might match closer even though most of us use similar concepts.
But these are things that you really should be sure of, so you get the best results possible.
Tape measure is your friend...

Paul

 

[daddycreswell]

You definitely need to fix the angle between the draglink and the trackbar. No matter how you do it, they both need to be at least a little more parallel, and the draglink definitely needs to be at a lower angle.
The steep angle due to the lifted suspension and still using a stock pitman arm is heavily contributing to the tie-rod ends rotating before moving the wheels/tires. The steep angle causes the draglink to pull up and push down, rather than impart a more sideways movement.
Rotating the tie-rod like 'Ol Blue mentioned is not an option in your case, because your stock steering setup has only one adjusting sleeve at one end. So no ability to change that aspect.
The rod ends are also probably older and worn. Not necessarily worn out, but certainly looser than when new. So this awkward movement will happen even more with looser rod ends.

Definitely lower the draglink angle. Either by swapping in a dropped pitman arm (easier and less expensive), or doing the Tie-Rod Over conversion as suggested.
The problem with TRO is that it's a set amount and might not be just right do match things to your situation. Necessitating still other modifications. It's a legit and beneficial mod, but it's not just a flip-it-and-go proposition.

Take a measurement of your trackbar drop bracket's hole locations to see how much drop it added to your upper mount. If you know what brand it is, it might be best to get the dropped arm from the same company. Not 100% necessary, but might match closer even though most of us use similar concepts.
But these are things that you really should be sure of, so you get the best results possible.
Tape measure is your friend...

Paul

Thanks Paul, I have no clue what lift is on it, the PO did give me another drop pitman arm. Here is a picture of the one installed and the one that I have had. I don't know anything about it, but even I can tell that the one I was given as extra would probably work better.

 

[DirtDonk]

The Pitman Arm, that’s installed is stock (or stock-ish). Not a dropped arm.
The other one is.
The proper angle is roughly parallel to the track bar. But also the lower the angle of each, the better.

You can check the amount of lift by measuring between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame.
Stock is approximately 7 inches, so anything over that is the amount of lift.

 

[Yeller]

Dropped pitman arm is the option to TRO, and will help it drive better.

 

[daddycreswell]

The Pitman Arm, that’s installed is stock. Not a dropped arm.
The other one is.
The proper angle is roughly parallel to the track bar. But also the lower the angle of each, the better.

You can check the amount of lift by measuring between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame.
Stock is approximately 7 inches, so anything over that is the amount of lift.

I just measured and it's a 3.5 inch lift. So do you think the drop pitman arm I have will "help" the issue, then go from there? I would like the to the best and cheapest fix.

 

[gr8scott]

The drop pitman arm will definitely help, it's what I use with my 3.5" lift.