Ford caliper bolt broken off in caliper holder

[WDGS]

Yup, I broke off a bolt in my caliper holder (ford) - its pretty flush.

Any advice to getting it out?

 

[addicted]

You can try an easy out but I would just drill it out and tap the hole for a larger bolt. Its pretty common for those bolts to break and since its so small, I wouldnt want to risk breaking an easy out just to get it out.

 

[WDGS]

If i drill it out, I assume that I need the same style bolt? Any good place to buy them?

 

[addicted]

Nope. All it does is keep that little notched plate from sliding out. Regular ol bolt works fine. Ive had old Fords my whole life and probably half of them had a non OEM bolt in that spot. Like I said, its fairly common for it to break because the shank is such a small diameter. Just make sure you use anti sieze on the new bolt.

 

[addicted]

Also, if IRC, that little plate has two notches. So you could always just grind your broken bolt flush and then drill and tap in the center of the other notch.

 

[Mountain Ram]

Also, if IRC, that little plate has two notches. So you could always just grind your broken bolt flush and then drill and tap in the center of the other notch.

This seems to work best...

 

[Broncobowsher]

EZ out will not work on a rusted in place bolt that snapped off. Do NOT try that route, you will regret it.

Drill and tap is probably the best option. If you have some left had drill bits handy I would try those after you get the pilot hole started.

 

[Timmy390]

EZ out will not work on a rusted in place bolt that snapped off. Do NOT try that route, you will regret it.

Drill and tap is probably the best option. If you have some left had drill bits handy I would try those after you get the pilot hole started.

DITTO....I'll never use an "easy out" again. I have several broken off in my rig.....

Tim

 

[El Kabong]

I agree with the EZ-Out avoidance advice above. I was taught that an EZ-Out was only for removing a bolt that broke while tightening. Never for stuck bolts that broke while being removed. I ignored that teaching only to learn that broken bolts with broken EZ-Outs in them are much much harder to remove than the bolt alone.

Before breaking flush = Patience, heat, & penetrant with time to soak. Work the bolt back & forth with gentle force, more penetrant, & more time to soak. Vise Grips if there's a broken nub to grab.

After breaking flush = Punch, drill, & tap.

I have heard of guys welding a nut onto the broken bolt in that situation, but haven't tried it myself.

 

[suckerpunched]

Weld it out. It works almost every time. Get a nut that is one size bigger than the bolt that broke off. hold nut over the broken off bolt with pliers. weld it through the nut with wire feed. fill the nut completely with weld. The nut will be bright red when your done. wait until the red is almost gone and try to back it out. if it moves a little bit, work it back and forth, it will loosen up. If it doesnt work you can still drill it. I cant remember the last time I had to drill one though.

 

[addicted]

Im betting anything that it broke right where it necks. Which means the nub is flush with, or just below the outside edge of the keeper plate. Not much to weld to or to grab with vise grips. And you cant slide the plate off until the bolt is removed or ground down. Might get lucky though.

 

[garberz]

Just get another caliper, they're less than $20 for a rebuilt one. a pair of calipers cost less than a set of pads. How much time are you willing to spend for $20? That's how I look at it.

 

[WDGS]

Just to clarify - the nut broke off in the caliper holder, so flush to the metal that i can actually slide the key off over it.

Nothing to weld to (without most likely welding to the caliper holder itself). No way to grab onto it.

I decided to grind it flush and then drill/tap it. That metal is a moose to drill into - going to have to borrow a more powerful drill to get it done!

Thanks for all the help yall!

 

[DirtDonk]

yep, drill-n-tap should be the best.
To answer one of the earlier questions, the stock type bolt (two different designs) are readily available at most well-equipped auto parts stores. As are the sliders and springs.
But like was said, a standard bolt will work just fine. I would think there would be an advantage to sizing it to fit the notch better, but I can't say that from any experience or engineering knowledge. It just seems right.

Have fun.

Paul

 

[addicted]

Just get another caliper, they're less than $20 for a rebuilt one. a pair of calipers cost less than a set of pads. How much time are you willing to spend for $20? That's how I look at it.

He's not talking about the caliper. He's talking about the caliper bracket.

 

[garberz]

He's not talking about the caliper. He's talking about the caliper bracket.

Thanks for pointing that out, what the hell was I thinking. Carry on.

 

[addicted]

Like Paul siad, there may be some sort of advantage to having the OD of the bolt fitting snuggly in the ID of the notch. Just from the standpoint of keeping the key from sliding back and forth. Shouldnt be an issue if you snug the bolt down tight and use loc tite. The other thing you can do is use a washer that will fit in the notch. Might have to touch it with a grinder but a couple minutes of your time would ensure a snug fit.