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Front Axle U-Joint?

Ark Bigfoot

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2020
Messages
114
I replaced my U joints in both the front and back drive shafts. In 72 Bronco. Has not been in 4 wheel drive in 15 years. Before I connected the rear shaft I thought I would test the front-wheel drive. While it was still on the stands I put it in 4 wheel drive and ”ran” it with no noise. After I took it off the stands you can hear the noise from the right wheel The noise started and was louder and a clunking noise at first then quited down. The movie was after driving it about 300 feet.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/51663576961/in/dateposted-public/
 
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Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,056
Assuming it ran before with no noise, then it could be a front axle u-joint or broken axle, or something in the differential or front driveshaft. I would put the front up on jack stands while the rear shaft is out and spin the front tires by hand while inspecting the axle yokes and u-joints for wear, noise, etc. You can cycle the steering at the same time to get a better view and maybe pinpoint the issue quicker. There may also be more than one issue, so tearing into the front end isn't a terrible idea if it hasn't been in 4-wheel drive for 15 years IMO...in the least, those axle U-joints should probably be replaced.
 

B RON CO

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Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
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Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, as mentioned, I would jack up the front and you can see the front u joints. I would also lock and unlock the hubs and spin the wheel to make sure the 4 WD is fully engaging. Of course if it hasn't been apart in a long time you should inspect the brakes, wheel cylinders, and pack the bearings. Good luck
 

Jdgephar

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,343
There are also bearings in the spindles that the outer axles ride on. Don't forget to check them.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
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Ark Bigfoot

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2020
Messages
114
When I had it on the stands, I could take the wheel and it would move in and out about 3/8 inch. This may be standard "slop" in the axle movement. I will have to look about the bearings in the spindles. I don't recall seeing any. They were splines on both shafts which I lined up.. I don't think it's a broke axle since both turned when I had it up on the stands. As Ron mentioned, since I have to remove the axle, I will inspect the brakes, cylinders bearings and hoses. My thoughts are axle U Joints but don't know how to inspect the differential. Any suggestions on inspection of the differnential? Anything I need to be careful when taking out the axle or other seals ect which i should replace while I am in there?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,945
When I had it on the stands, I could take the wheel and it would move in and out about 3/8 inch. This may be standard "slop" in the axle movement.

As m_m said, that's not right. There is no slop in a wheel. Well, there is but it's in the range of .001" to .010" which is in the thousandths of an inch bearing free-play.
If you meant the axle shaft could move in and out that much, then yes that's normal float.

I will have to look about the bearings in the spindles. I don't recall seeing any.

The spindle bearings are caged roller bearings pressed into the back-side of the spindle. Looks like the #8843 on this page: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/s?keyword=spindle+bearing
They rarely wear out as they're only really used in 4wd or when the hubs are locked. But they can get dry and rust out, so are always in need of checking any time you have the spindles off. If you did not remove the spindles then you would not have seen them.

They were splines on both shafts which I lined up. I don't think it's a broke axle since both turned when I had it up on the stands. As Ron mentioned, since I have to remove the axle, I will inspect the brakes, cylinders bearings and hoses.

If you have not seen or read the bearing adjusting procedure, check it out in the manual or ask us here and we can run down the list. It's not like doing car or 2wd bearings.
The expected results are the same, but the method of adjustment is different and counter-intuitive.

My thoughts are axle U Joints but don't know how to inspect the differential.

If it's the u-joints making that kind of noise then they were not good to begin with or something you did after installing them broke a joint or an axle yoke. It sounds like the axle shaft is flopping around inside the housing and making that noise. Were you running around extensively in 4wd while on pavement perhaps? That's usually not enough to actually break things, but if something is old and already compromised, it could put it over the edge.
Inspecting could be as simple as listening to where the sound is coming from. Things definitely change with load, but it would be surprising that whatever is making that noise did not show up just spinning the tire in the air. When you spun things were the hubs locked? Both of them?
Are they now? What lockout mechanism are you running? Stock, or aftermarket? Maybe the hubs are not fully locked?

Speaking of the noise though, along with all that play you felt, you will be looking closely at the wheel bearings. Unless the spindle is broken, it's the bearings that keep things tight.
Is this disc or drum? And check your hubcaps too. I've heard hubcaps make that kind of noise.

Any suggestions on inspection of the differnential? Anything I need to be careful when taking out the axle or other seals ect which i should replace while I am in there?

Before removing all the outer stuff, just pull the front diff cover off and see what's going on inside. Rotate things (with the wheels if you can't turn the ring gear by hand) and see if anything is broken, missing a tooth, or loose to the touch.
That would be my first step with the diff, so you know where you stand in that regard. And it's a good thing if you've never changed the gear lube. Because now you will!
But don't put any back in just yet. You might be draining it again to do other stuff. The axle seals are all the way inside the tubes down at the differential. Yes you need to be slightly gentle when removing the axle shafts and maybe even rotate them slightly so that the splines don't drag across a seal. If they're worn, there may be sharp edges.
Same for putting them back in...

Were you leaving it in four-wheel drive for all this? Is the transfer case in 4wd too, or just the hubs locked? Maybe the hubs unlocked but t-case in 4wd?
Maybe it's just not quite shifted into gear, or the hubs not quite locked.
Be great if it's that simple, or just a flexing hubcap. No matter how unlikely, it would still be a nice lucky break.

Hey, it's cold out and the hubs have not been locked in a long time. Maybe they're gummed up and not locking. Would not be the first time.
So like so many other things, if you've never lubed/re-packed/adjusted the wheel bearings or cleaned the grease out of the hubs, it's far past time.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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Ark Bigfoot

Jr. Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2020
Messages
114
I jacked it up and I was wrong. There is no movement in and out of the axle only when turning/rotating the tire. The locking hugs are working as they should. I can free wheel and turn the tire with ease. When it is in free wheel there is no sound or wobble on either wheel.(the hubs are original) I had all the oils pumped out and refilled for I had driven across many Ozark creeks in it's life and naturally after 50 years needed it. lol New wheel bearings. On the video (red Jack) pass side, after about 3-4 seconds into the video it will have 3-4 real quick rachet of low noise . You will have to listen close. I noticed yesterday when backing up it would at times have a bucking sensation for a few seconds.PASS Side https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/51667427127/in/dateposted-public/ Drivers SIDE https://www.flickr.com/photos/77159845@N07/51668911344/in/dateposted-public/ The jack went down on the pass side. so I could not make a complete turn of the drivers side tire. I turned the steering wheel and all works smoothly with any noise. All this is done with it in LOW-4WD with the back shaft removed. Shifting into LOW-4WD is a little difficult but almost the same as when new. I can push with the heel of my hand and it will go in. Everything seems to be working except for the pinging and sometimes a clunk like when the rear u joint goes out and you put it in reverse. I respect your advice Paul and will remove the differential cover and look for anything unusual. Looks as though I need a new seal anyway.
 
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