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Front suspension

DirtDonk

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What is the are the benefits of TRO or do you have to go TRO if using a riser?
As far as Broncos were concerned, in the early days it was, as mentioned, to raise the tie rod up to be more out of harms way.
With Little or no thought to trackbar and drag link angles matching, it was just to let you drive into the rocks a little more securely, less likely to bend your tie rod.
At least bend it from an impact.
Doing so exposed the differential cover more, of course, but that was often compensated for with skid plates, rock guards, and later, heavier duty covers.
Bronco tie-rods were actually pretty beefy for their day. But didn’t stand up well to rock hammering and twerking under torque in four-wheel-drive under the influence of big tires.
What is the hour glass method?
It’s simply tapering a new hole in the steering arm from the top. Right over the existing hole.
No added material means you end up with basically an hourglass shaped opening (two opposing tapered holes) in the steering arm. Due to one tapered hole coming from the bottom and the other tapered hole coming from the top.
It’s been questioned whether this weakens the arms because it leaves less material in the hole for the tapered rod end to mate to. But as we’ve discussed before, there haven’t been many, if any, reports of failures due to this simpler method of going TRO.
At least not that I remember.
 

DirtDonk

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The main thing I want is for my bronco to drive well not have death wobble or bump steer. I don't know if all this part are necessary or not.
It can may be made to drive well in many different ways. And Death Wobble doesn’t come from linkage design or orientation.
Bumpsteer? Now hat’s a whole ‘ other animal! :)
Ok so long arms and offset C-bushings wouldn't be enough to fix caster
Yes, they both “fix” caster. Both together can net you up to an 11° increase in positive caster.
To the detriment of pinion angle.
or would you set up the front and see what the pinion angle is ?
It’s all part of the process…
Or is the cut and turn the only way really get everything prefect?
It is quite literally the only way to get everything perfect.
You can’t adjust one with the usual methods without negatively impacting the other.
The only way to set proper caster without pooching the pinion angle after a suspension lift is to cut the welds at the steering yokes and rotate them independently of the rest of the axle assembly.
 
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Chris99

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It can may be made to drive well in many different ways. And Death Wobble doesn’t come from linkage design or orientation.
Bumpsteer? Now hat’s a whole ‘ other animal! :)

Yes, they both “fix” caster. Both together can net you up to an 11° increase in positive caster.
To the detriment of pinion angle.

It’s all part of the process…

It is quite literally the only way to get everything perfect.
You can’t adjust one with the usual methods without negatively impacting the other.
The only way to set proper caster without pooching the pinion angle after a suspension lift is to cut the welds at the steering yokes and rotate them independently of the rest of the axle assembly.
Ok what would be the cause of death wobble and what would be the cause of bumps steer?

So if its main thing is going to be on street driving and little off roading . Would the TRO and riser be over kill?

If I had a smaller lift like a 2.5 would it not affect the pinion angle as much or is it always necessary to cut and turn the axle with a lift?

Also what are the positive and negative of drop radius arm vs long arm?
Sorry for the million questions just trying to figure all this stuff out 😅 .
 

Johnnyb

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Death wobble and bump steer are primarily on-road issues. I would say that for primarily on road, going TRO would probably be overkill.
What fixed death wobble for me way back in the day were all new bushings in the front end. Especially in the track bar.
Bump steer is caused by bad front and geometry, as others have told me here on the forums if your track bar and you're drag link aren't parallel to one another, there will be some bump steer no matter what. In that light, I had good geometry with my wild horses 3-way adjustable tie rod: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/66-75-ford-bronco-3-way-adjustable-steering-linkage
Except that I damaged it on the rocks.
I then switched to James Duff: https://dufftuff.com/product/early-bronco-dual-sport-bump-steer-eliminator-kit/#choose-year TRO, and have been generally pleased except with the track bar riser which I purchased from them separately and now needs modification because at the moment my geometry is not perfect although the bump steer is not noticeable.

-JB
 

DirtDonk

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Ok what would be the cause of death wobble and what would be the cause of bumps steer?
Bumpster is caused by a couple of things. Maybe more.
One is a misalignment of the linkage as was described.
Another is too acute of an angle on the linkage. Such as after a suspension lift, but not compensating for the changed angle with things like Pitman arms and brackets to correct for the steeper angle.
The steeper angle, the more shift occurs during suspension cycling.
There may be specific definitions for Bumpster that don’t include some of the things mentioned, but the end result is the same. A vehicle that moves side to side on the road without input from the driver and is less than perfectly stable while driving.

Death Wobble is caused by tires.… There are things that can allow it to happen when it wouldn’t otherwise be occurring, but it always starts at the tires.
There are lots of discussions about it, and lots of arguments about what the actual causes are. But I’m firmly encamped in the “Always starts with a tire” camp.
So if its main thing is going to be on street driving and little off roading . Would the TRO and riser be over kill?
Generally, yes.
If I had a smaller lift like a 2.5 would it not affect the pinion angle as much or is it always necessary to cut and turn the axle with a lift?
It does not affect it as much. But it might still be necessary.
As we say around here, every Bronco is different…
But because of production tolerances, and old school thinking, your bronco might not have had enough caster right from the factory.
That’s why we usually recommend having it checked before starting work on suspension and steering. In fact, now is the time to suggest it.
If you’re Bronco is still together and driving, go get the alignment checked and get an actual real world caster number to work with.

Back when Broncos were strictly manual steering and had bias ply tires, the front axle caster numbers were set up much less than was called for on paper.
This made it easier to steer, and didn’t cause too many problems for old-school truck savvy, Bronco owners back in the day.
Now that we have radial tires, cushier suspensions, better shocks, and are much more used to good handling vehicles, it’s a big annoyance to not have proper caster.
Also what are the positive and negative of drop radius arm vs long arm?
Positives as they are cheaper and easy to gain caster reasonably while keeping the spring cups aligned.
Negatives are, there are ugly, they hang down too low for offloading, they impart more leverage into the frame, and still don’t correct the real correct way.
Which is to cut and turn…

But here again, getting the caster checked ahead of time wiill let you know what you have to work with. And what you have to compensate for.
Since it’s not going off road, and likely won’t ever see four-wheel-drive high on the street, you may never experience a drive line vibration from a bad pinion angle.
Most of us have not done a cut and turn, so you may not have to either.
 

DirtDonk

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Oh, and don’t worry about the 50 questions. We’re all learning together!
Besides, as we also like to say, the only stupid question is the one you didn’t ask.
So by all means, if you don’t know something and want to, or if you don’t understand something and need to, fire the old question canon and see what runs up the flagpole.
 
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Chris99

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Bumpster is caused by a couple of things. Maybe more.
One is a misalignment of the linkage as was described.
Another is too acute of an angle on the linkage. Such as after a suspension lift, but not compensating for the changed angle with things like Pitman arms and brackets to correct for the steeper angle.
The steeper angle, the more shift occurs during suspension cycling.
There may be specific definitions for Bumpster that don’t include some of the things mentioned, but the end result is the same. A vehicle that moves side to side on the road without input from the driver and is less than perfectly stable while driving.

Death Wobble is caused by tires.… There are things that can allow it to happen when it wouldn’t otherwise be occurring, but it always starts at the tires.
There are lots of discussions about it, and lots of arguments about what the actual causes are. But I’m firmly encamped in the “Always starts with a tire” camp.

Generally, yes.

It does not affect it as much. But it might still be necessary.
As we say around here, every Bronco is different…
But because of production tolerances, and old school thinking, your bronco might not have had enough caster right from the factory.
That’s why we usually recommend having it checked before starting work on suspension and steering. In fact, now is the time to suggest it.
If you’re Bronco is still together and driving, go get the alignment checked and get an actual real world caster number to work with.

Back when Broncos were strictly manual steering and had bias ply tires, the front axle caster numbers were set up much less than was called for on paper.
This made it easier to steer, and didn’t cause too many problems for old-school truck savvy, Bronco owners back in the day.
Now that we have radial tires, cushier suspensions, better shocks, and are much more used to good handling vehicles, it’s a big annoyance to not have proper caster.

Positives as they are cheaper and easy to gain caster reasonably while keeping the spring cups aligned.
Negatives are, there are ugly, they hang down too low for offloading, they impart more leverage into the frame, and still don’t correct the real correct way.
Which is to cut and turn…

But here again, getting the caster checked ahead of time wiill let you know what you have to work with. And what you have to compensate for.
Since it’s not going off road, and likely won’t ever see four-wheel-drive high on the street, you may never experience a drive line vibration from a bad pinion angle.
Most of us have not done a cut and turn, so you may not have to either.
Bumpster is caused by a couple of things. Maybe more.
One is a misalignment of the linkage as was described.
Another is too acute of an angle on the linkage. Such as after a suspension lift, but not compensating for the changed angle with things like Pitman arms and brackets to correct for the steeper angle.
The steeper angle, the more shift occurs during suspension cycling.
There may be specific definitions for Bumpster that don’t include some of the things mentioned, but the end result is the same. A vehicle that moves side to side on the road without input from the driver and is less than perfectly stable while driving.

Death Wobble is caused by tires.… There are things that can allow it to happen when it wouldn’t otherwise be occurring, but it always starts at the tires.
There are lots of discussions about it, and lots of arguments about what the actual causes are. But I’m firmly encamped in the “Always starts with a tire” camp.

Generally, yes.

It does not affect it as much. But it might still be necessary.
As we say around here, every Bronco is different…
But because of production tolerances, and old school thinking, your bronco might not have had enough caster right from the factory.
That’s why we usually recommend having it checked before starting work on suspension and steering. In fact, now is the time to suggest it.
If you’re Bronco is still together and driving, go get the alignment checked and get an actual real world caster number to work with.

Back when Broncos were strictly manual steering and had bias ply tires, the front axle caster numbers were set up much less than was called for on paper.
This made it easier to steer, and didn’t cause too many problems for old-school truck savvy, Bronco owners back in the day.
Now that we have radial tires, cushier suspensions, better shocks, and are much more used to good handling vehicles, it’s a big annoyance to not have proper caster.

Positives as they are cheaper and easy to gain caster reasonably while keeping the spring cups aligned.
Negatives are, there are ugly, they hang down too low for offloading, they impart more leverage into the frame, and still don’t correct the real correct way.
Which is to cut and turn…

But here again, getting the caster checked ahead of time wiill let you know what you have to work with. And what you have to compensate for.
Since it’s not going off road, and likely won’t ever see four-wheel-drive high on the street, you may never experience a drive line vibration from a bad pinion angle.
Most of us have not done a cut and turn, so you may not have to either.
So if you do have a riser or a drop bracket the main thing to stop bump steer is to get yor drag link and trac bar parallel .I thought a drop bracket causes alot of stress to the frame.

My bronco is all taken apart so I cant get an alignment. With a 3.5 lift would it be a benefit to running long arms ? Something about cutting the axle tube just seems stressful 😬.
 

DirtDonk

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It’s definitely stressful. Mostly to the pocketbook though, since most of us aren’t going to be cutting and welding that large of an item in our garages. But it’s literally the only way to have your cake and eat it too.
It’s the only way you can change caster angle without negatively affecting the pinion angle.

Almost any lifted bronco can benefit from long arms. Both from the standpoint of increased caster, but also increased tire clearance for retaining the great bronco turning radius with larger tires. Because most long arms have a “kink “in the middle, so larger tires don’t rub as readily.

A longer bracket cannot avoid adding leveraeg/stress. But is it enough to cause trouble? Not for most users.
There are probably a hundred drop brackets for every riser running around out there. And 95% or more without any trouble.
A riser is arguably better in almost every way. And it being stronger is not subject to argument at all. Just more expensive, more work, and a little more effort to try to get the two bars parallel to each other sometimes. And sometimes going TRO is necessary.
Sometimes not…

Yes, keeping the two bars as close to parallel as possible, as close to the same length as possible, and as at as low an angle as possible are all desirable.
I’m still not a fan of parallelograms, so when I think of a riser, I think of TRO and other things to get the track bar and drag link as close to pivoting in the same plane as possible as well.
But I’m not saying that from any geometrical whisperer status, and I believe others have argued that it makes no difference. I just don’t like seeing them that way. I like seeing them pivot in as close to the same plane as possible.
 
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Chris99

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Ok so I order a stock style track bar bracket and it fits not the best so I thought I'd try and make one. I'm still not sure if I'm got to do a riser or a drop bracket but I figured I have to fix the track bar bracket that's on there. My question is does the hole on the bracket have to be super accurate on the trac bar bracket or is there so play there?
 

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Chris99

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Also on the back side of the bracket it wasn't welding and its to close to the spring tower any idea on how to weld this area?
 

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DirtDonk

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On the size of the hole question, I'd say that, yes it has to be as close as possible.
It's true that the clamping force applied is enough to keep things from moving around in the beginning. But for the long term, I'd want the bolt hole size to match the bolt as tightly as possible.

In your picture #6 (#6641) is the angle of the camera, or do the bushings not fit in-between the sides?
And in the next pic, is the bracket spreading out from the bar being fitted into it? Or here again, is it just the angle of the camera?

Paul
 
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Chris99

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[/QUOTE]
On the size of the hole question, I'd say that, yes it has to be as close as possible.
It's true that the clamping force applied is enough to keep things from moving around in the beginning. But for the long term, I'd want the bolt hole size to match the bolt as tightly as possible.

In your picture #6 (#6641) is the angle of the camera, or do the bushings not fit in-between the sides?
And in the next pic, is the bracket spreading out from the bar being fitted into it? Or here again, is it just the angle of the camera?

Paul
Ok I I kinda know the bolt holes should fix as close as possible. I guess my question is the location of the hole matter? Or is it not a big deal with the adjustable trac bar?

Pic #6 is the one I bought and yes the bushings for the new adjustable trac bar doesn't fit.

The next pic is the bracket that I made and the bushings fit pretty tight but I think that good.

Another question i have is the angle of the bracket on the frame does this matter? I clamp it on the frame and tried to level it but then I have a pretty big gap in the back of the bracket.
 

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Yeller

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Ok I have to brush up on my stick welding haven't done it in awhile
You can also bend the rod to get a better angle if needed. Causes you to use more rod, once you get to the point the flux breaks off from the bend it is trash, but if the weld is better it is worth it.
 

ssray

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Farm welding 101...and probably a lot of other places. 😆😆😆

You can also bend the rod to get a better angle if needed. Causes you to use more rod, once you get to the point the flux breaks off from the bend it is trash, but if the weld is better it is worth it.
 
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Chris99

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You can also bend the rod to get a better angle if needed. Causes you to use more rod, once you get to the point the flux breaks off from the bend it is trash, but if the weld is better it is worth it.
Does the bracket have to be at any specific angle or as long as its close should be fine?
 

Yeller

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Needs to be fairly close, otherwise it won’t align with the bushing on the track bar. The better aligned it is the longer the bushings last too.
 

DirtDonk

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At ride height! Don't weld on a new bracket lined up with a suspension that is compressed or drooped out from where it will sit at it's natural ride height.
At least that's the start. It's not like it's never going to see those other positions of course, but it might as well be installed where the bar/bushings will spend most of their time cycling back and forth through.
That's my feeling on the subject anyway.

Paul
 
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Chris99

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At ride height! Don't weld on a new bracket lined up with a suspension that is compressed or drooped out from where it will sit at it's natural ride height.
At least that's the start. It's not like it's never going to see those other positions of course, but it might as well be installed where the bar/bushings will spend most of their time cycling back and forth through.
That's my feeling on the subject

Ok got it get everything at ride height first. So you said previously that I have to set up everything to make sure it all works together. I definitely want to put long radius arms would you want to install them first,or just tack weld all the frame bracket in place?

If I do go with a track bar riser how do you riser up the drag link by flipping the tie rod?

If I go with the drop bracket would you want to reinforce the frame in any way?
 
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