Getting started & need sanity check

[Chappy's EB]

Part of the Christmas present from the Mrs. was the green light to start seriously tearing into my bronco rebuild.

Right now, first priority is getting the brakes working as I am not playing the crazy games I played of "chocking" the wheels on the fly on & off the trailer :-X...that was a fun/scary experience I don't want to repeat.

Here's where I am today: 1970 w/302 (rebuilt once already), 3 spd hurst shifter, Scout power steering, stock everything else. Last ran in 2009, then only dead from sitting for so long (rotted/eaten lines everywhere). Has rust spots but don't think anything terminal at this point.

Here's the goal: Daily driver with EFI 302, auto tranny (4R70W), column shifter if possible with tilt, power steering (maybe upgrade to F-150 system), disc front brakes (haven't committed to which yet), power brakes, and the rest will be determined as I get closer (interior style, axles, etc.)

I know taking it to the frame then building all up from that point would be ideal but I don't have the shop space, skills, or time for that luxury.

?:?Sanity check part: I don't have the skills or tools for the needed body/frame work (rust removal, welding, sanding & painting) so looking to drop off at a shop for that piece. While I know they could do all of the work, my intent is not to buy a nice bronco but be a part as much as possible of the process. Am I correct in thinking the frame/body work should be the first major step (i.e. get a rolling chassis) before I focus on drivetrain or interior or suspension? If so, how far down should I tear it to still be able to safely load it on/off a trailer?

I'm thinking that once I get it back looking nice & not rusting anymore, I could disassemble anything I needed for drivetrain, brakes or suspension install & the neighbors would be less likely to complain about the lawn art...

Let me know your thoughts & what I should be thinking about that I'm not...

 

[chuckyb]

I have also contemplated your approach but the more I have learned from the gurus here I have come to accept that the body must be separated from the frame in order to truly deal with the rust once and for all. If you do not want to take the body off then my thought would be deal with all of your mechanicals first in order to not damage the body work and paint with all the disassembly later. Just my thoughts after learning from the experts here.

 

[Skiddy]

I would first get it running and do all the mechanicals first. whether its a new engine or whatever, tranny and then brakes. with the 70 more than likely it's a d30 so that will limit your brake options. sounds like fun project

 

[DirtDonk]

A lot depends on how extensive the rust work will be. Doesn't sound too dire at this point, but got some pics or more details for us to chew on?

If you're going to be fixing it up first, before driving it any length, you can do things backwards from what we normally recommend.
Yep, I typically say get the brakes and tires and suspension done, but in this case you're doing that yourself and paying someone to do the body work. I would see how much it's going to cost and more importantly, see if there is anything worse than you are expecting that could effect the overall budget.

I'm just thinking it'd be kind of a pain to do all the cool stuff only to find out that your body guy needs $10,ooo up front because he has to rebuild swiss cheese!

In reality a Bronco can be built either way. But I would certainly dig into it and give us some more info if you can, to see if there is any reason to go one direction over another.

Good luck!

Paul

 

[AZ73]

If you take it to the frame, you won't be driving it for 5 years. You should decide if you want to drive it while you're building it. That will dictate a lot of your pathway. And if you take it to the frame, then you start making things really nice, and then when it's done, you don't want to drive it for fear of ruining it. Make a plan for your END goal. Stick with it. And if you can't do most of the work yourself, it's going to get very expensive, ESPECIALLY the body work. I did all my own body work (replacing rusted panels, lining up the gaps etc) and once it was done, the paint shop STILL did $6500 worth of work to make all the aftermarket parts fit correctly, and re-adjust what I did because the door weatherstripping wouldn't allow the door to close correctly. Granted I paid to make it perfect, but you get the idea. I don't want to discourage you, but you should be completely aware of what you're getting into. Best of luck and we're all here to help!

 

[Chappy's EB]

Thanks for the great advice right off the start, here is "the rest of the story" & some pics that will hopefully help. Paul, my biggest fear is what you outline, getting all nice guts to only find out I've got to start over with a new frame & tub, would be a really hard sell to the wife at that point.

Additionally, I'm still on active duty & working this around my moves. Right now, I'm near Austin where my parents live & have agreed to hold onto it for now. If I stay in the states for the next move, they probably won't but then it will be in my garage for me to work on, if overseas, well then it will be lawn art for 3 years...This also means I'm close to the BC guys for the frame/body work. I've already talked to them & showed some pics to get rough idea of what I'm in for but know it could be much worse once they see it hands on.

I'm not worried about driving it through the rebuild process. Personally, I'd rather save the "pretty work" until I'm done dropping engines, cutting new holes to fit upgrades/changes, etc. but I'm worried this thing is going to be a pile of dust if I don't stop the rust now.

First time posting photos so I'll edit this post if they don't come out right...I've got more to include some full holes on the hood & tailgate, but the frame & floors concern me the most.

This is the drivers side to simply show the current paint job is cracking & pealing off (yes, the top is in really bad shape)

Next is a pic of the front passenger body mount

Then the underside of the passenger floor board, in front of the rear tire (the PO dropped a new floor pan in the passenger side & welded it on top of the rusted floor...

Finally a shot from behind the front wheel down the drivers side of the axle.

 

[chuckyb]

Thank you for your service! Since you want a driver, I think you should focus on the mechanicals due to the logistics of it possibly being outdoors and money / time constraints. You’ve got some rust issues and they will get worse as you dig deeper into it. No need to spend money on straightening out fenders and spraying paint when you will eventually need to tackle bigger issues.