Having trouble getting 3 on tree in 1st or R

[clinem03]

I’m having a hard time getting the shifter to “pull back” in neutral to get it in 1st or R. The column was rebuilt a year ago and I had no issues, it shifted really well. I just got the truck back from the detail shop that did the ceramic coat and I’m wondering if they were too hard on it and something broke. I checked the linkage and everything seems to be in the same spot it was in before with no blockages. It’s like it’s stuck in the 2nd / 3rd column in the H pattern and getting it to pull back to get it in 1st or R is really difficult. Any ideas?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Very likly they didn't know a column shift that well. I would start off with checking the adjustment of the linkage. Put the alignment pin in the shift arms, adjust the linkage so the neutrals line up.

The other one could be clutch adjustment. If the clutch is dragging a little bit getting into gear is very difficult. If it is easy to shift into gear with the engine off but difficult while running, clutch drag.

 

[clinem03]

Very likly they didn't know a column shift that well. I would start off with checking the adjustment of the linkage. Put the alignment pin in the shift arms, adjust the linkage so the neutrals line up.

The other one could be clutch adjustment. If the clutch is dragging a little bit getting into gear is very difficult. If it is easy to shift into gear with the engine off but difficult while running, clutch drag.

Thanks for the tips! It shifts like crap with the engine on or off so maybe it is the alignment. When you say check the adjustment of the linkage and an alignment pin…what are you referring too? Am I checking the linkage just below the column or at the transmission? What’s the alignment pin?

Thanks in advance!

 

[ngsd]

There is a(valley)place on the column that you can slip a drill bit or nail into that lines up with holes on the shifter arms. when they are all aligned an in neutral you can adjust your rods evenly for the right amount of play.

 

[DirtDonk]

The adjustments are at the transmission, but the aligning sleeve and pin will be at the top of the column inside the engine compartment right at the shift arms.
1. First make sure the brake is set AND a wheel is chocked just in case.
2. First step is an inspection to make sure the bushings are intact and the rods are tight in the arms still.
3. Then get under and disconnect the rods from the transmission arms. Does not matter at this point if you're in neutral or not, because you'll be able to manually do it after.
4. Maneuver both shift arms to their center positions so the trans is in neutral.
5. Back up top, put the shift lever in the cab into it's neutral position too. This just gets you close enough to do the next step.
6. As ngsd mentioned, there is a sleeve welded to the top of the column that, when the two shift arms are in neutral, will line up with two holes in the arms.
7. With the holes aligned with the sleeve, insert an appropriate size drill bit. What, 3/32" maybe? I forget, but there is a "correct" size. Probably some leeway though.
8. With all three bits aligned, go back down under and re-insert the shift rod adjuster pins into their appropriate holes in the shift arms on the transmission. Adjust if necessary.
Do not move the arms here. Instead, if they don't go in easy and naturally, thread the adjusters in or out to line up with the hole.
9. Clip them back on, go up and remove the drill bit, then row the shift lever on the column through it's paces to see if things have improved.

Usually they do, so hopefully no further steps are needed!

Paul

 

[ngsd]

Paul always does a better job at explaining things!

 

[DirtDonk]

Haha! And I wear out keyboards more than I should.

I forgot to address the initial concern too. Like ‘bowsher said they probably didn’t know how to work a column shift and could have been a little frustrated. Might have gotten a bit rough.
This could have messed up your shift tube inside of the column. But we won’t go there yet because there are certainly other things that can happen.

When was the last time the transmission was serviced? Have you ever changed the gear oil in it? Have you checked the fluid level lately? Is it full?
If you disconnect the shift rods from the transmission and seem to have difficulty getting the levers/arms back-and-forth between neutral and the different gears, you may have an internal transmission issue.

Even if they shift like velvet still, now might be a good time to consider changing the gear lube anyway. Unless it’s been done since you’ve owned it?

 

[okie4570]

Paul always does a better job at explaining things!

Obi-wan has 41,362 posts worth of explanations, practice makes perfect lol

 

[DirtDonk]

And I should’ve learned 20 years ago to save the good ones so I could just copy and paste!

 

[Broncobowsher]

Obi-wan has 41,362 posts worth of explanations, practice makes perfect lol

I only have 32,000ish posts. But I bet my word count is really up there.

 

[clinem03]

It just needed to be adjusted, thanks everyone!

Paul - that’s an insane number of posts!!

 

[clinem03]

Alright, now I’ve got a new issue. I took her out for a test drive today, she shifts smooth from gear to gear with a big BUT…it won’t go in 3rd. It will shift to 3rd and sometimes it will catch but other times it won’t and I’ll still be in some form or neutral as it won’t accelerate when I hit the gas. It caught 3rd maybe 20% of the time during my test drive. I also hear a slight grinding noise in the column by the shifter which has me worried that it could be the column. Before I adjusted the linkage I did have occasional problems with it popping out of 3rd but it was rare. Do you think I just need to adjust the linkage some more…or do I have a column problem. The column was recently rebuilt about 1000 miles ago.

 

[DirtDonk]

Well first of all verify that there is no excess play in the linkage. But a grinding noise in the column is probably just being transmitted up from the transmission itself. I can’t think of anything that would actually grind or make a noise in the column.

You might disconnect the second/third rod again and see if the motion in the transmission is linear. Just move the lever itself and see how it feels.

Did we ask when was the last time the transmission oil was changed? And what type are you using?

 

[clinem03]

Good stuff to check, Paul! I’ll get to it this afternoon. I’m hopeful it’s just slightly off where it’s not fully engaging 3rd at the transmission lever. I’ll unbolt it and slide it up a bit to see if there’s any change.

I had the transmission out a few months back at my buddies transmission shop. He changed the oils while it was out when they were installing a new clutch and flywheel. Sadly, I don’t know what kind of oil they used…

 

[clinem03]

A one millimeter adjustment on the 2/3rd shift lever did the trick! Thanks Paul!

 

[DirtDonk]

Great!

 

[clinem03]

Hey Paul - I also tackled the horn today as it was still not “going beep”. You may not remember but you helped me in this thread (https://classicbroncos.com/forums/t...teering-wheel-what-parts-am-i-missing.304027/) a long while back finding a 74-741/2 OE wheel to fit my 76 as I prefer the earlier style. All I was missing was the ground over the rag joint once I got a new relay harness in (old one was roached). So glad I’ll be able to use the horn now. Thanks for all the help along the way on my build!

 

[DirtDonk]

Happy to be part of the process! Glad you got it working.
Man, a honky horn and a shifty transmission. What's next!

Paul

 

[clinem03]

Going to drive the s*it out of it for a while! Today was the “smalls” day wrapping up a few loose ends before spring

 

[lewain]

Way back in my younger years I kept a screwdriver in my truck just for that adjustment!