Headlight harness

[daddycreswell]

What is need to put a headlight harness together? Was thinking I might be able to get my hands on the stuff for a little of nothing if I knew what for sure I needed and how to combine it. Those of you who have done it please let me know. Thanks

 

[Airmapper]

Basically, you need 2 relays, and some 12 or 14 gauge wire. Getting 2 different colors would be good. Get enough to go all the way round the engine bay in each color. Assorted connectors will be needed as well. Soldering connections is better, if you don't already know how, it's not that hard to learn and will come in handy for any wiring project.

If not crimp connectors will work, but you will probably be fixing it again at a later date. I'd also recommend some shrink wrap, hit up Harbor Freight, for like $7 you can get an assortment pack. Standard electrical tape works, but isn't nearly as handy as shrink wrap and doesn't last as long.

For attaching to the headlights, you can use standard blade connectors, or there are some nice pigtails available.

Making it even nicer wouldn't be that hard, if you have a good junkyard down there, they probably wouldn't charge you much for a small relay box.

I grabbed this stuff from some Explorers, the little boxes anyway:

Mount something like the small relay box up to your fender wall, and it would be tucked away, all the wires would be neat, and it would work well. If you don't want to get that complex, it's not necessary.

Good luck, and if you need more specific details on anything I'll elaborate.

 

[daddycreswell]

Thanks Airmapper, I'll start getting the stuff together

 

[daddycreswell]

So I would run a black and red wire to each headlight and then to the battery correct?

 

[Airmapper]

So I would run a black and red wire to each headlight and then to the battery correct?

Not exactly sure what you mean, but I think you are sorta on the right track.

Color isn't important, just something to keep your beams separate.

You will have a wire from the battery going into the relays. One wire could feed both relays if it's good size and spliced into 2.

From 1 relay (lets say HI beam) you will have one wire going out the opposing end of that switch, split it into 2 and run each end to a headlight.

Do the same for LOW beam. That takes care of the power supply to the headlights.

 

[daddycreswell]

I know I am asking alot, would it be possible for you to draw me a diagram showing what it where and where it's going? Maybe a parts list, I will hang onto it and pass it along to the next EB brother who has not clue like me. email is joshcreswell@gmail.com Thanks a ton. I am trying this first to brighten up the headlights.

 

[Airmapper]

No problem, I felt exactly the same when I started re-wiring my '70.

I can whip you up a drawing tomorrow, actually I made one for myself on my fuse panel project, I just have to delete the parts that don't pertain to your setup.

See if this helps in the short term.
Ignore the color labels, and on/off switch on this diagram.

These numbers should be either printed or etched on a relay.

30 is the post that the wire to the battery goes to.

87 goes to the headlights, for one beam. So it will splice into 2 and go their separate ways.

86 is where you connect your existing headlight wire, which can be intercepted anywhere around the engine bay harness. Hi beam wire, goes to high beam relay.

85 is just grounded somewhere, like a bolt to the inner fender panel, any good ground.

 

[daddycreswell]

Sweet I'll study this....thanks a ton.

 

[Airmapper]

Give this a try, it's not perfect as I whipped it up off the top of my head borrowing work from my fuse panel drawing, but it's good enough to visualize where the wires go and what features to add.

I'm not too happy with the export software, but I got it to give me something at least. It's a first draft, if I get motivated I'll make a nicer version, and with some feedback from the pros can make it better.

I almost forgot but added fuses to the list. Fuses are good on anything electrical and will save you from going up in a puff of smoke if something should happen.

I fused each "beam" in the diagram, but now I'm thinking I put them in the wrong place. A single 20amp fuse on the wire from the battery would protect you, and be easier to assemble.

If someone would double check me that would be good, I'm not positive on the amp ratings and fuse positions.

 

[daddycreswell]

From what I can tell it looks good to me, my engine looks just like that, but you didn't put enough oil dripping from it (LOL). I like the single fuse idea, thank you for taking the time to do this for me, it will be a great help. I will keep this handy for the next person who needs help. Merry Christmas to you and yours.

 

[first timer]

check out vertex's diagram in the second post

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131679&highlight=headlight+harness+diagram

 

[Viperwolf1]

Give this a try, it's not perfect as I whipped it up off the top of my head borrowing work from my fuse panel drawing, but it's good enough to visualize where the wires go and what features to add.

I'm not too happy with the export software, but I got it to give me something at least. It's a first draft, if I get motivated I'll make a nicer version, and with some feedback from the pros can make it better.

I almost forgot but added fuses to the list. Fuses are good on anything electrical and will save you from going up in a puff of smoke if something should happen.

I fused each "beam" in the diagram, but now I'm thinking I put them in the wrong place. A single 20amp fuse on the wire from the battery would protect you, and be easier to assemble.

If someone would double check me that would be good, I'm not positive on the amp ratings and fuse positions.

That diagram is fine but I would suggest just using one fuse in the red wire, between the battery and relays.

 

[blubberfet]

Probably overkill but I ran separate fused power wires from the battery to the relays. I figured that it one fuse goes out I will still have the other one to switch to. So if the highs go out lows will still work.