Help with OBD 1 codes

[ared77]

My '66 has a 5.0EFI and 5 speed trans. I've noticed a quick "pop" a couple of times lately as I take off. I ran the diagnostic test (without engine running) and came up with these codes - 85, then 10, and finally 11. So, am I correct that -

85 is my real problem ? And that is ....?

10 says it's a cyl 1 problem...but that's with the test with engine running and I turned ign to "run" only. Why would 10 come up?

11 just means "test complete"?

 

[Timmy390]

Isn't 10 the "code reader system passed" I'm almost positive I always get code 10

Tim

 

[Jebus]

Say's here in Fords code reader manual that an 85, during KOEO and KOER, is canister purge solenoid. If it was continuous (C), it's adaptive fuel limit reached, lean.
If Auto and KOEO, 85 could be shift solenoid.

10 would be cylinder one after cylinder balance test...

11 is end marker. I think I remember if you dont tap the gas during the window for cylinder balance test you get a 10...

 

[Steve83]

Scanners are notoriously UNreliable on EEC-IVs (which is not "OBD-1").

First: what year & model is the computer from? Is EVERYTHING from the donor vehicle still connected to the computer properly? Pics would help.

Very few EEC-IVs can do a cylinder balance test, so that's most likely a spurious code.

 

[Jebus]

Anything SEFI will do a cylinder balance test...

 

[Steve83]

Maybe. But most EEC-IV is bank-fired MPEFI.

 

[Timmy390]

From page 27 of the code reader owners manual

Approximately 6 to 9 seconds after the reader receives the last KOEO self test fault code a separate code 10 is sent to the reader. Code 10 is not a fault code. Code 10 is used to separation code used to separate the first group of codes from the continuous memory codes.

It goes on to say, code 10 is used as an indicator to the user the vehicles computer has completed the first part of the KOEO test

Tim

 

[ared77]

Thanks Tim. And someone said pictures would help so here they are.

 

[ared77]

OK, so I got mine up and running again and my "Code 85" was caused by something simple! I found that one of the vac. caps was split and I believe causing a lean condition which maybe triggered the code 85? I replaced the three caps shown in the pictures as all were cracked/splitting or about to. Test drove it for a couple of miles and seems to be fine, no "popping" etc. Thanks guys!
Norm

 

[ared77]

"85" had more than one symptom listed and I believe a vac leak can cause the 2nd symptom "Adaptive fuel limit reached - lean" .

 

[DirtDonk]

I think the 85 code was a common "ignore list) item in the early days because nobody used the CAN-P (canister purge) solenoid valve. Does yours have one, or is the charcoal canister just connected directly to the air filter/intake tube area?

And regarding the vacuum caps, you would do well to keep some handy. The new stuff has a very short life expectancy. As little as 3 months to as much as 2 years. Mostly about a year and they're done. Not like the old days.
If yours last longer, report back and let us know what brand and where you got them!

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Where'd you mount your BAP/MAP sensor?
Presumably BAP though, since it's an HO engine(?) and is MAF and sequential?

Paul

 

[ared77]

"the charcoal canister just connected directly to the air filter/intake tube area" yes it is. I you look at the first pics I posted of the engine compartment you can see the charcoal canister mounted to the firewall, just past brake master cylinder. And that 3rd pic is my hand holding the hose running from it over to the air filter area.

Good advice on the rubber caps!

As for your next questions I'm not sure. This is the one built by xcntrk on here a few years ago (Anthony Ramos) and I was lucky enough to buy it from him after selling my '69 Boss Mustang. All I know is he did a heck of a job building it and I love driving it!

 

[DirtDonk]

Ah yes, I knew I recognized the truck, if only from the fairly unique mounting location for the charcoal canister. Had not seen it in quite awhile, but it looked familiar.

The two fittings at the throttle body facing opposite each other (pics #1 & #2 in your post #9) are probably not vacuum fittings. I believe they are the coolant flow path in the stock setup. But while no vacuum to leak, hey, might as well change the caps if they're cracked.
If nothing else you can use them as "trail spares" when away from home sometime if one of the other small vacuum ports decides to leak, or go walkabout again.%)

Glad it's running better with such a simple (and inexpensive) fix.

Paul

 

[ared77]

Thanks Paul.

Tony used a lot of Wild Horses parts in the build. Matter of fact it's pictured in your catalog from 2016, page 31, before he built the hidden winch that goes through the front bumper.

 

[Steve83]

"85" had more than one symptom listed and I believe a vac leak can cause the 2nd symptom "Adaptive fuel limit reached - lean" .

Actually, it would be the opposite. A LARGE vacuum leak would cause the EEC to try to adapt RICHER - potentially up to its rich limit. A small vacuum leak (like a crack in a cap) wouldn't have much effect, other than possibly at low idle.

The lean adaptive limit would be due to the engine running rich, as if the FPR was leaking.

Instead of using perishable vulcanized rubber vacuum caps, buy silicone hose, cut a short section, and then silicone-seal it shut. That should last forever.

 

[ared77]

Thanks Steve83.