Horn button stopped working and now it shocks me!

[Millercorey]

Quick question - because the copper is so thin on the adapter, should I just glue the new copper sheet down instead of soldering?

 

[gr8scott]

Quick question - because the copper is so thin on the adapter, should I just glue the new copper sheet down instead of soldering?

It would need to be conductive. Maybe JB Weld?

 

[Millercorey]

But aren’t the two wires soldered onto the copper plate? Just make sure those wires are soldered down and the plate itself could be stuck with whatever works right?

 

[gr8scott]

But aren’t the two wires soldered onto the copper plate? Just make sure those wires are soldered down

Yes. One is soldered to the outer copper trace and the other to the inner copper trace. They need to stay where they are.
You need to be careful not to connect the two copper traces. The green-ish ring on your adapter is the separation
between the two traces. I've outlined it in red, see pic.

and the plate itself could be stuck with whatever works right?

As long as what you use is able to conduct electricity, which is why I soldered mine. I would think JB Weld is conductive, since it's a "liquid steel".

Unless you solder the wire(s) to the copper plates that you attach, then you can glue it down with whatever you want.

 

[Millercorey]

It’s fixed!!! It was a little tedious trying to cut 2 separate copper rings, but they’re in and working. Got some liquid solder in a syringe and used a soldering iron. Easy peezy!

I just drove it on some errands and I will say that copper plate does seem substantially smoother than what comes on the adapter new. We’ll see how it holds up.

 

[gr8scott]

Nice! I'm sure you took a picture of it, right?

 

[Millercorey]

You would have thought right!? Well turns out I had to pull my wheel to get it a little more centered so I snapped a pic. I was really worried I screwed it up because cutting a fairly accurate circular pattern in copper of that thickness wasn't as easy as I thought it would be. It works though!

 

[Oldtimer]

Lecarra Hub Adapter Refurbishment.

This is on a 68 Bronco that has two horn contact rings.

The new adapter, and mine after a couple thousand miles. The horn contact pins had worn thru copper foil on hub adapter.
FIG 1

Contact pins had also worn down on turn signal switch.
FIG 2

The contact rings are made from printed circuit board stock, glass reinforced epoxy sheet with a thin layer of copper (.001/.002 inches) laminated to it. Not wanting to purchase a new hub for $66.00, I contacted Lokar.com (who manufactures Lecarra steering wheels & adapters) to ask about buying a replacement contact ring assembly. They offered one free as a warranty replacement.

Since it did not take long to rub thru the copper foil, and the outer contact pin that rides near the OD of the outer contact ring had obliterated the soldered wire contact,
FIG 3

I decided to add thicker copper contacts rings to the original.

I ordered some .040” thick copper rings and a plastic spacer from sendcutsend.com (thanks to post by ntsqd). The plastic spacer is to keep the inner copper ring concentric to hub, when bonding it.
See attached PDF for dimensions.
FIG 4

I filed a notch in spacer to clear pin that cancels turn signal switch. (Single pin works better than original two pins.) Also filed clearance on bottom side to clear wire soldered to original contact.

Use epoxy to attach inner copper ring.

After inner ring cured, I used a tie-wrap to locate outer ring concentric to inner ring while epoxy cured.
FIG 5

Remove the spacers and solder wires to edge of new rings, then file solder flat/flush to rings.
FIG 6

INSTALLATION NOTES

I increased distance between horn contact rings and turn signal switch (by adjusting bearing clamp on shaft) so that contacts were not jammed against contact rings. When this steering wheel was installed (along with power steering and column rebuild) no attention was given to this distance. The goal was to minimize end-play in steering shaft by fully compressing spring under hub at top of column.
I would blame the PO for this oversight, but that would be me.
FIG 7

The threads on turn signal arm protruded thru the new switch, so I trimmed it down.
FIG 8