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Instrument gauges

3T

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May 24, 2006
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167
A couple of weeks ago, my voltage regulator went out on my instrument cluster. I replaced it. They have been working until recently - they work intermittently. They all either work or they don't. Any suggestions?
 

DirtDonk

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With your recent work, you might have disrupted the already weak ground link supporting the dashboard in general and the instrument cluster in particular.
You might try running a temporary jumper wire from a known good ground (some bolt on the body maybe?) to one of the screws holding your instrument cluster in the dash. At least that way you can rule out a lousy ground as your issue.

Paul
 
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3T

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I'm getting a good ground otherwise my turn signal lights wouldn't work, right? Are the gauges grounded? I see two posts on the back of each one. One goes to the sending unit/oil pressure sender, etc. and the other one goes to the IVR on the back of the cluster. Any other suggestions?
 

Socal Tom

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The IVR needs to have a good ground to the guage cluster in order to work. sand down the area under the IVR. The guage cluster needs to have a good ground to the battery ( usually through the contact with the dash/body etc.
Tom
 

Viperwolf1

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I'm getting a good ground otherwise my turn signal lights wouldn't work, right? Are the gauges grounded? I see two posts on the back of each one. One goes to the sending unit/oil pressure sender, etc. and the other one goes to the IVR on the back of the cluster. Any other suggestions?

The gauges themselves don't need to be grounded. The ground is established through the senders. The IVR does need a good ground though.
 

DirtDonk

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I'm getting a good ground otherwise my turn signal lights wouldn't work, right?

The way I understand it, it has nothing to do with it. Unless your gauge cluster is hooked directly to the steering column, that is. Which it isn't. And the turn signals and lights have their own grounds out at each corner. They're not grounded through the switch, so to speak.
The turn-signal switch is just a pathway and doesn't require a ground to work.
I don't think? Anyone care to clear that up if I'm wrong?


Are the gauges grounded? I see two posts on the back of each one. One goes to the sending unit/oil pressure sender, etc. and the other one goes to the IVR on the back of the cluster.

Same sort of thing. As Viperwolf said, the gauges aren't grounded (they're just another pathway for the signal), but the whole cluster needs to be part of the grounding system that is the dashboard or things won't always work properly because of the IVR. And I guess, in theory, if it wasn't properly grounded any errant RF signals bouncing around in the general area could disrupt the flow of energy through the magnetic coils of the gauge-works and cause funny readings. Probably over stating things by a country mile there, but hey, theory is good for lots of garage talk about ill effects.

Paul
 

Viperwolf1

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The way I understand it, it has nothing to do with it. Unless your gauge cluster is hooked directly to the steering column, that is. Which it isn't. And the turn signals and lights have their own grounds out at each corner. They're not grounded through the switch, so to speak.
The turn-signal switch is just a pathway and doesn't require a ground to work.
I don't think? Anyone care to clear that up if I'm wrong?

Correct with the exception of the turn signal indicators. They need a good ground.
 
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3T

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I tested the IVR with a voltmeter and I was getting pulse of current every 10-12 seconds with it attached to the instrument cluster. I took it out and ran hooked it up straight to the battery. The same thing. The ground seems to be fine. I talked to the vendor where I got it and I sent it in for a new one. The new one pulses every 2 seconds, which makes the fuel sending unit in particular go up and down every 2 seconds. The others didn't get all the way up to where they should be. Any other thoughts other than another bad IVR?
 

DirtDonk

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Correct with the exception of the turn signal indicators. They need a good ground.

You know, I just re-read his question, and I'm wondering if he didn't actually mean the indicator lights? That's what it actually sounds like now that I read it with a semi-clear head, but I was thinking "turn-signals" the first time.
So yeah, if your indicator lights work, you've got ground. It's the signals themselves that would not need a dash ground.
Sorry for any misunderstanding on my part 3T

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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I tested the IVR with a voltmeter and I was getting pulse of current every 10-12 seconds with it attached to the instrument cluster. I took it out and ran hooked it up straight to the battery. The same thing. The ground seems to be fine.

Sounds right. Ground seems to be working.


I talked to the vendor where I got it and I sent it in for a new one. The new one pulses every 2 seconds, which makes the fuel sending unit in particular go up and down every 2 seconds.

The fuel "sending unit"? Or the gauge itself? The gauge should not pulse, since the reaction is slowed down through dampening. If you're reading the pulse back at the sending unit at the tank, then ok, that sounds correct.
Can you tell just how much voltage you're seeing at each pulse's peak?
Two seconds sounds about right, but just curious as to what it's peaking at.


The others didn't get all the way up to where they should be. Any other thoughts other than another bad IVR?

You mean the gauges didn't read where you would expect? Or that the voltage readings at the back of the gauge didn't seem to match the output of the IVR?
Not much wire to get a voltage drop in, so if it is dropping, you've got a bad connection somewhere.
If the gauges aren't reading where you expect, perhaps the total output of the IVR is low? Do you have a digital or analog voltmeter?

Sorry that your question brings more questions, but "is a puzzlement", as they say.

Paul
 
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3T

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I'm using an analog voltmeter. I get a votalge pulse of about 10V every 2 seconds. My understanding (after reading alot about these IVRs) is that they should pulse about 10V every half second to provide an average of 5V to the guages. I think I am going to try making one from Radio Shack (build up plans I've seen on this site) to get a constant 5V and see what that does.
 
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3T

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I just got through making my own and it works great. All 3 guages work fine!
 
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