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Issues with C4 and new Blueprint 306

OP
OP
deltabronco

deltabronco

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Dec 27, 2005
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1,100
Camshaft: Hydraulic Roller Cam - .533 Intake / .544 Exhaust Lift and 215 Intake / 220 Exhaust Duration @ .050 - 114° LSA
 

badandy73

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Jul 18, 2007
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What are you running for a TC, is it correct for the 306?

I ran the same setup with a stock converter and it worked fine, but could've gotten away with a little higher stall to better match the specs on the 306.
 

blade

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May 13, 2020
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Loc.
Santa Fe
Silly question but are you running the correct firing order for your camshaft?
 
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deltabronco

deltabronco

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What are you running for a TC, is it correct for the 306?

I ran the same setup with a stock converter and it worked fine, but could've gotten away with a little higher stall to better match the specs on the 306.
The transmission mechanic replaced the TC. I gave hime the specs to the cam and the recommended stall speed given by BP. He said he put the correct one in.
 

bronco italiano

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Do you have a wide-band on your exhaust?

Lots of trooubleshooting.

This is gonna sound crazy, but could your brakes be dragging?
Hard to think a new trans/engine would run so sluggish.
 
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deltabronco

deltabronco

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Unsure about the wide band on the exhaust. Don’t think there is a brake issue as it rolls freely in neutral. I’m going to check the timing today. It idles well but real runs sluggish when in gear. Almost as if the choke is engaged. Unfortunately it seems that since I put the new engine in, nothing wants to work right
 

Soylent

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Interesting. I have the same 306 with a touch more lift and duration. Struggle to keep from dying at idle on startup. Have to keep babying the throttle for 2-3 minutes. Smells rich. Once warmed up idles great. Planning to visualize the choke during cold start today. I’m running Qjet though. Did you check that you are at 32 degrees at 3500?
 
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deltabronco

deltabronco

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What carb did you install??? I swear by carbs but never had one run right out of the box. Some would hardly run at all. Usually a pretty easy fix. Just takes some time and trial and error.
So, it was running very lean. I adjusted the carb and ran new gas’s through it. I also had the rearmed gears changed from 3.50 to 4.10. I think all this together just made it respond differently. Definitely better after new gas and carb adjustment. I’m running a Edelbrock 1405 carb.
 

m_m70

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Jun 14, 2001
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Pacifica, CA
No just adjusted, didn’t change the rods or springs.
yeah those screws just adjust idle mixture and won't really affect how it runs outside idling.
you'll need the calibration kit with the different rods and springs.

here's a video if you haven't changed these out before.

 

73azbronco

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you gave us the cam specs, but what cam is it for, RV, tow, street strip?
 
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deltabronco

deltabronco

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Dec 27, 2005
Messages
1,100
you gave us the cam specs, but what cam is it for, RV, tow, street strip?
My initial thought were that it’s a street cam. Blueprint doesn’t give alot of info on it. Feels like it’s geared more for tow but then again the engine and drivetrains only have about 10 miles on it. I’m hoping it drives better as it breaks in.
 

73azbronco

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hold blueprints feet to fire, demand to know if its a street or strip or rv/tow.
 

lars

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NorCal flatlands
The OP hasn't shared many engine specs, but based on the numbers in post #21, the cam was almost certainly selected to take advantage of their aluminum heads. That's way more lift than most iron heads can use. I had an Explorer 5.0 for years with gt-40p heads and a cam with similar specs. It made good power but not until about 2500 rpm. Then it made plenty. A street cam, but not an RV cam, though with the (likely) aluminum heads, even if it isn't a stump puller it should go like crazy in the mid range.

And I agree m_m70's carb comments. It might be right, but probably not. And what about the distributor? What kind? What's the initial timing set at, and how much total advance are you getting?
 
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