Jeff's Rear Poly EFI tank?

[Scott McKelvey]

Something like that may work. It doesn't sound like it would take much to clear and AFAIK only one person has reported the clearance issue with the lines. It could be that he sourced his own pump and the lines just don't have as tight of a radius. But it sounds like we are talking about 1/4" or so of interference.

It would be nice if we had a bone stock Bronco nearby to put on my lift so he could check the clearance issue. But, we're pretty far out in the sticks.

EFI Guy, i tried to message you (I might be a moron as far as using this forum, and screwing it up, but It wouldn't let me), but message me if it makes sense. I'm not against putting $ in Jeff's pocket, but I like to go directly to a supplier when possible.

Jeff's has no way to buy the skid plate after the fact, which I don't love. Plus I've seen no pictures of the skid plate on their site: only the tank kit and a drop down box whether or not to include the skid plate. So I have no idea what said $200 skid plate looks like. I'd like some more detail on the skid plate since it's 35% the cost of the complete tank via Jeff's.

I'm not really a regular Facebook guy so the guys referencing Facebook doesn't do a whole lot of good, at least not w/o a direct link.

 

[EFI Guy]

I am a big time EFI Guy fan and customer
Couldn't find you at the WH event last year
Would love to shake your hand regardless of free hat or not. But would love a hat!!
You are darn amazing at what you do!!

I'll have another batch made in late spring or early summer and save one for you.

 

[EFI Guy]

EFI Guy, i tried to message you (I might be a moron as far as using this forum, and screwing it up, but It wouldn't let me), but message me if it makes sense. I'm not against putting $ in Jeff's pocket, but I like to go directly to a supplier when possible.

Jeff's has no way to buy the skid plate after the fact, which I don't love. Plus I've seen no pictures of the skid plate on their site: only the tank kit and a drop down box whether or not to include the skid plate. So I have no idea what said $200 skid plate looks like. I'd like some more detail on the skid plate since it's 35% the cost of the complete tank via Jeff's.

I'm not really a regular Facebook guy so the guys referencing Facebook doesn't do a whole lot of good, at least not w/o a direct link.

I have my messages shut off on the forum, it's easier for me to keep track and respond faster through my gmail.

It was my understanding that all of the tank vendors were going to have the same price so you won't necessarily save more by going direct, I think it's going to be a matter of who has them closest to you. I know that he was in talks with a few places on the east coast about carrying the tank so there may be someone that carries it local to you. JBG may even offer the skids separately if you call them.

You can reach Jeff at BroncoAtank at gmail dot com. I'm sure he'd be happy to get you pictures, pricing options, and tell you the best place to get one from.

 

[Scott McKelvey]

I have my messages shut off on the forum, it's easier for me to keep track and respond faster through my gmail.

It was my understanding that all of the tank vendors were going to have the same price so you won't necessarily save more by going direct, I think it's going to be a matter of who has them closest to you. I know that he was in talks with a few places on the east coast about carrying the tank so there may be someone that carries it local to you. JBG may even offer the skids separately if you call them.

You can reach Jeff at BroncoAtank at gmail dot com. I'm sure he'd be happy to get you pictures, pricing options, and tell you the best place to get one from.

Ah my not internet savvy, had me confuse EFI Guy w/ Jeff (the tank guy). I spoke with Jeff (the tank guy) today. Super swell dude. I'm going to pull the trigger on the tank and SS skid plate via Jeff's.

EFI Guy, Jeff spoke highly of you and recommended your services, but I sort of have a free Holley Sniper, so I'm not sure our paths will cross on this project.

 

[Scott McKelvey]

So I pulled the trigger, and bought the tank w/ stainless skid plate from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. I hope I'm not blowing anyone's spot, but Jeff burton, broncoatank@gmail.com, is the genius behind the tank. EFIGuy, you're a close acquaintance?

After speaking with Jeff Burton, I bought the tank (JBG says free shipping).

1. Packed well, but w/ shredded cardboard and it would have been nice if they bagged the tank to keep all the debris out.
2. Love the tank, but 3 constructive criticisms:
   1. move the fuel pump mounting ring screws inboard so they fall inside of the fuel pump seal. I might be missing something, but I see no reason they can't be moved.
   2. I'm happy to pay a couple extra bucks for the 1/2" NPT-5/8" barb fitting to be included. I see very few people not needing that, so it saves time+ a trip to stores.
   3. Same goes for the 6mm-1 machine screws to mount the fuel pump (although in JBG's ad, there are 6 misc screws in the picture, so maybe they forgot).

Here's a quick video of what showed up.

One concern, which I'll know more about tomorrow, is that Bronco Graveyard's listing says it's a stock replacement, but Jeff Burton warned me ahead of time that w/o a 1" body lift (or more) the fuel line outlets on the pump can rub the body lift unless they are bent down. I have no body lift so if need be, I will look into lowering the tank mounts as alternative.

 

[Scott McKelvey]

OK, so the verdict is in on the body lift: you need a 1" (or more) body lift. I thought lowering the tank might be an option (like someone else said), but quickly realized the error in that, which is that the filler neck needs to pass over the frame rail (which already was a problem).

BEFORE PURCHASING:

1. Do I have a body lift of 1" or more? If not, it's doable, but be prepared to:
   1. Cut a raised trap door for the fuel pump
      1. 
   2. Cut 1/4" off the top plastic bars on the tank (I just used a sawzall), and you'll still have a really tight fit of the filler neck and the frame rail, but it'll work
      1. 
      2. 
2. Think about your tailpipes, and whether you're wedded to them, in the area above rear axle, since this tank hangs lower and has the extension on the frame cross member. I had just enough clearance b/t the Tank corners and my exhaust to feel comfortable. But this shouldn't be any different that any of the other aftermarket tanks.
   1. 
3. Is your rear axle located rearward from stock (probably not the case, but worth considering). But this shouldn't be any different that any of the other aftermarket tanks.

It took me all weekend, granted most of that time of cleaning up frame, wiring, rust, paint, etc. while I had stuff apart. Then alot of the rest was figuring out how to make it fit w/o a body lift. Here's my synopsis.

1. Remove old tank, brackets, lines, etc. Results may vary. I had one bracket bolt that broke off, for example.
2. Now's the time to clean up and deal w/ anything you want: this is the big time variable/time suck. You could spend 0 minutes or 2 weeks.
   1. Maybe there's wiring that you will no longer be able to reach
   2. Maybe there's a hole you want to drill, or a bung you want to weld in (I welded the nuts for my seat captive b/c otherwise I'd have to drop the tank to get to them)
   3. 
3. Install new stainless rear brackets, although I'm not sure exactly what purpose they are meant to serve. They're great for positioning the tank fore to aft, but too light duty for up/down rigidity when tightening the tank strap.
   1. You'll probably want to cover the sharp edges w/ an old inner tube or radiator hose or something.
   2. 
4. Thread in the 1/2" NPT to 5/8 barb Vent fitting in tank (I used both teflon tape and plumbers putty, just to be safe).
5. OPTIONAL - If you plan to use the drain, drill+tap now (1/4"NPT). There's not alot room b/t the tank and the Diff, so hard to drill+tap after the fact. And just plan on installing a plug.I had planned to run a ball valve, but it stuck out too far. And the port in the tank is recessed in the moulding, so you can't screw it in anyways. (I used both teflon tape and plumbers putty, just to be safe).
6. OPTIONAL (but I recommend)- before installing the pump in the tank, I'd recommend testing the OHM adjustment module while the pump is out of the tank. It's both testing (I had some problems figuring out how to get it to work), and at least a baseline (I recognize b/c of the shape of the tank, 1/2 full doesn't equate to the float being halfway up. But you can fine tune later if you want).
   1. It goes w/o saying but the module will get wired in inside the cab (not underneath exposed to the elements.
   2. **Instructions are vague, but work, EXCEPT the counterclockwise vs. clockwise is OPPOSITE for our early broncos.**
   3. 
7. OPTIONAL (unless for some reason you're using the stock 2000's Ford wiring) - cut the wire plug, and add your own connectors.
   1. one connector for the pump (red)
   2. one connector sending unit (blue)
   3. combine the black and Black/White to single ground.
8. Install fuel pump in tank (6mm-1 bolts may or may not be included).
9. Install vent and filler hoses to tank. And you probably need to install the fuel lines too b/c they'd be hard to access after the fact (since I did a trap door, I'm installing them after the fact).
   1. If you're running lines for the first time, the feed on the pump is 3/8", and the return is 5/16. I'd already run 3/8" lines for both (b/c that's what the Holley Sniper calls for), so I had to add step down fitting before the pump.
10. Set Tank in frame (it's light and easy), and force the vent and filler hoses over the necks on the body (tighten clamps if your ready, or wait until everything is hunky dory.
11. Test fit tank strap and J-bolts to frame. ***I had to re-bend my strap. Perhaps mainly b/c of my exhaust, but something to keep in mind. This didn't involve anything more than clamping in the vice***
    1. 
    2. 
12. The J-bolts from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard are plenty long (i'll probably cut mine in fact b/c it's far easier if I could have gotten a ratchet+socket on that, instead of doing micro-turns w/ a wrench between the exhaust and tank). but that this point you are in the clear as far as the tank is concerned.

It looks real slick under there. As advertised it doesn't hang down too far. In fact I can't even really see it, unless I look for it. I love the fact that it's Poly and stainless, so should be low/no maintenance. I love the fact that it's a $30 off the shelf fuel pump and should be stone reliable. As as much as I hated cutting trap door, it makes the fuel lines and wiring WAY easier, and I love that i have easy access to that stuff as well as replacing a pump in the future.

 

[Scott McKelvey]

By the way, if anyone would care to donate a 15x8 scrap of the back bed (i'll pay for shipping) so I can make cover for the trap door, I'd be very grateful. See pic for up/down ribs that I'd like. This will allow me use screws in the two east/west low ribs, so I don't have anything sticking up any higher than it already is. Message me if so.

you can see in the pic where the cuts are, and 9x11, basically gives me an extra 1" all the way around.

 

[ntsqd]

Maybe the waffle pattern is the same?
https://solomotorsports.com/shop/parts/ford-parts/interior/ford-bronco-gas-tank-access-cover/

 

[toddz69]

Sent you a DM, Scott.

Todd Z.

 

[DirtDonk]

What's wrong with using your old cut-out as a cover? You could add a lip all the way around yourself I would think. Or something to that effect.

Also, your comment about a "stone reliable" pump is not necessarily going to hold true every time. In fact, if you see how many people have trouble with all types of pumps, you'd swear that a stone reliable pump does not exist anymore! All brands and models are subject to cheap parts and failing components. Especially when the vehicle sits more than it's driven.
Hmm, speaking of which... I'd better get out there and drive my '68 again! Been sitting too long and I'm the one always telling people to try not to do that!

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

And a comment/question about your body mounts.
Are they original? Or have they been replaced?
Hard to tell from the pics so far, but yours look to be a little crushed down. In one pic, it looks almost new, but does look bulged out a bit.
When original mounts deteriorate, even a stock tank filler tube will hit the frame rail.

Anyway, might be worth checking. A stock height mount should be 3/4" tall between the frame/bracket and body.

Paul

 

[EFI Guy]

So I pulled the trigger, and bought the tank w/ stainless skid plate from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. I hope I'm not blowing anyone's spot, but Jeff burton, broncoatank@gmail.com, is the genius behind the tank. EFIGuy, you're a close acquaintance?

Correct, Jeff is a buddy of mine. I'm not involved with the tank business other than kicking in a few ideas and doing my Youtube video to give him some free advertising.

Man that looks really tight with no lift! I'm curious as to how new your body mounts are as well. I think the pads that you cut off were designed to give plenty of rub material if you wanted to mount the tank directly to the body. I didn't realize they would have to be cut to keep the filler off of the frame. The 2' body lift I have made the install a breeze and looked like there was plenty of room for no lift.

The amount of ground clearance you have looks great!

I would make sure that the thread sealant you are using is safe for gasoline. I think gas will eat up the regular stuff. I'm one of the few that won't be using that large vent fitting. I'm sure the reason it's not included for everyone is to keep costs down, but I'm pretty sure you were at least supposed to get mounting screws for your pump.
Your ball valve idea is great, but it would make me nervous. With my luck, it would hit a rock and tear out or open just enough to lose fuel over the course of a few minutes. Or, just fail in the garage and leak over night.

I'll be curious to hear your reports on the conversion module. I haven't played with it yet. But, the gauge I'm using sloshes around as fast as my sender. I'm hopeful that the module will have some sort of anti-slosh circuitry to slow mine down.

 

[ntsqd]

Somewhere I missed the ball valve mention. What is the intent?

When gasoline is involved and I need a thread sealant I use Hylomar.

 

[DirtDonk]

He was talking about adding a ball valve, or other type of valve, to the drain plug location. Sounds like it comes plugged, but you can use it as a drain if you want.
Pretty sure that’s what they were talking about.

 

[ntsqd]

I thought that might be the case. I could be talked into something like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/4921K44/ if I felt it warranted and it could be put in a protected area. I'm in the middle of designing a metal tank for the Wagon project and I have not included a drain for it. Were I going to drive it into third world countries I'd be inclined to include one, but since the closest it's likely to get to a place like that is Trona I don't feel the need.

 

[Scott McKelvey]

Man that looks really tight with no lift! I'm curious as to how new your body mounts are as well. I think the pads that you cut off were designed to give plenty of rub material if you wanted to mount the tank directly to the body.

Since more than 1 person asked, if stock body mounts are .75", I'm fairly certain that yes mine are original to the truck, and yes I'm sure they've shrunk, but they're still at least .68". So everyone can break out their digital calipers, but .070" ain't alot. But I'm sure there's alot of broncos still wearing their stock body mounts............. Regardless, .070" of shrink/compression is not enough to make up for the pump or 4 tank bars. Look, "I don't make the news, I just report it", so I'm just passing along first hand info for the next guy.

 

[Scott McKelvey]

Update. Now that the tank was in, I wrapped up my Holley Sniper install and got my first 2 rounds of driving in. I was a little skeptical about the seal between the hard-ish rubber gasket on the fuel pump vs. the slippery poly surface, as well as the 3 siliconed screws holding the mounting plate. I'm definitely getting fuel weeping from the surface of the fuel pump when the tank has a decent amount of fuel in it. I thought about spraying it w/ some copper gasket sealer (Wish i had), but i just did another round of tightening (THANK YOU trap door!). So I'll report back.

 

[DirtDonk]

My original factory tank had its filler tube and hose crunching down on the top of the frame rail, when my original body mounts were deteriorating.

 

[ntsqd]

As late as my '96 still passes the filler tube over the top of the frame rail, making getting to that hose clamp at the tank a real PITA. There has to be a better way.

 

[EFI Guy]

My original body mounts were all between 1/4 and 3/8 thick total, which I could see causing problems. But, 70 thou is nothing. I would expect them to compress that much under normal driving conditions.