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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,102
Was wondering about your wheel backspace and if you're running a spacer. And if your tires rubs.

He would not likely have any of the normal '76/'77 rubbing issues with the tie-rod ends because of the 17" wheel diameter. The tire rubbing the radius arms is a different story though. That's likely to happen on most larger tires on most wheel combos.

Paul
 
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jlawyer

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2015
Messages
114
You work fast. It would have taken me a few years to do all that. I'm a slacker.
Once you get it all worked out all your hard work will be worth it. Hopefully you will be able to make it to your first MEB club event on September 19th. INFO

Between work, work, work, and family I don't either... I have to solicit local classic car shops. Dan Nolan at Mustang Barn has been helping me with the wrench time lately.

Wonder if that vibration you've got in the engine is a case of mis-matched damper/crankshaft/flexplate gremlins? You're probably familiar with the 28oz vs 50oz imbalance change that Ford made to the 5.0 only. Would definitely make an otherwise smooth engine vibrate like the dickens.
Paul

Yep, we had to try every perturbation. I was told by the seller that the crank in the block was definitely 28oz balance; turns out it wasn't.

Never-the-less, we have success! 50oz conversion damper and flex plate solved the engine shake. All that's left to do is to install a new fuel sending unit and fuel pump and it'll be ready to take the road.

This is my first bronco; driven, owned, or otherwise.... It's a bit more of a dog than I expected. At around 3500lbs and 205hp (stock), I expected about 0.058hp/lb... which is more than what I get from the mustang with a 260 Windsor. The performance difference is startling less.
 
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jlawyer

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Joined
Mar 28, 2015
Messages
114
The lack of power and acceleration I was complaining about appears to be the result of a freshly installed vacuum modulator on the rebuilt C4. The transmission was skipping first gear altogether and because of the engine vibration, I never drove it hard enough to notice I wasn't hitting all three gears.
 

DirtDonk

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Messages
48,102
Well that'll sure do it.
Even more so if your gearing and tire size are not quite optimal.

That's one more thing figured out and off the list!

Paul
 
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jlawyer

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Mar 28, 2015
Messages
114
According to the letter I got from Ford, the truck was originally built with a limited slip ratio of 3.50 and G73x15D tires.

If I'm right, those are equivalent to P225/70R15 and gives them a diameter of around 27.4". The new tires are 32.7" ... so does that mean the new ratio should be (32.7/27.4)(3.50) = 4.17 ?

I'll have to double check and make sure the PO didn't change it from stock but assuming it is; is it worth changing the ring and pinon to correct the ratio? Is the benefit predominately in gas mileage?
 

DirtDonk

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Hah! Ok, so while that's a pretty accurate assessment, it's not the whole story.

The original ratio and tire size was not necessarily arrived at for fuel economy. The new ratio might not be either then.
A lower ratio (higher number) will certainly give you more power, but only actual use by the current owner (you) will tell the tale of fuel economy.

If an automatic, I say keep the 3.50's until you've driven it.
If a manual, pretty sure you'll appreciate the 4.11's, but I'd still drive it first.

Whether the change is worth it to you, depends on how you would otherwise have spent the $600 to $2000 dollars on your EB.
Yep, you could source cheap or even good used gears, new bearings and seals and such, for between $130 to $400 or so. Then shop the labor around and if you have a buddy that does it you're gold. But if you pay a shop for it expect to spend at least another $500 to $600 or so.
But THEN(!), then it's all about whether you choose to add lockers/limited-slips or other enhancements under there. Some good gears, name brand parts, and ARB's will easily set you back $2000 or more.

As for "worth it" in fuel, how long would it take you to get all that back at maybe a 1 mpg improvement?
As for grin factor and performance, well, that's a whole nuther story. More power is rarely a bad thing.

Paul
 
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jlawyer

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Mar 28, 2015
Messages
114
I don't have many concerns about fuel economy; it has to be fun to drive or what's the point.

So, continuing this line of thought, (3.50)/(4.20)=.83 Does that really mean I have a 16% loss in torque?
 

DirtDonk

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Messages
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Maybe, but it's rarely a linear thing. You have to factor in the larger heavier tire, with potentially more/less rolling resistance of different types and sizes of tire. Along with (in the real world anyway) the changed aerodynamics of the higher vehicle.
That last is minimal of course, and only really takes effect as speeds increase, but it's an actual thing.

But yes, from a strictly numbers standpoint, you can use your calculations to figure things out and plan future mods. But like anything, there are so many variables simple multiplication/division is not usually a truly accurate method.

At least I don't think so. Not a mathematician OR an engineer. Just thinking that's how it works.
Just think of your numbers as a change in "simple leverage" rather than torque to the wheels, and that might be more accurate?

Paul
 
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jlawyer

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2015
Messages
114
Drivers Side Air Vent & Rain

We got a pretty substantial rain storm last night and I opened the drivers side door to find a floor pan full of water.

After some poking around, I found out there is an air vent up behind the brake pedal. I wish I had known this when it was 95+ outside. Anyway, it seemed like the water was trickling down from the door.

It's still raining and I cannot get the truck in my garage. So two questions: Should this kit http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Air_Vent_Inlet_Duct_Kit help prevent the water from coming in the cab? Is there a drain in it that should allow water to flow out of it that I should try to clean?

Third question: I installed gas struts on the lift-gate, they hold it open extremely well. I was driving around with it open but I got concerned about the rear window glass. Is it affixed well enough or do I risk having it fall out?
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,102
Should not be a problem with the glass, as long as the rubber seal is not so dried and shrunken that the glass is loose to the feel.
Drove around with mine open many times for many miles.

Sorry you hadn't poked your head up under the dash while it was warm. But then again, you might have opened it up while driving and gotten a face full of leaves, pine needles and rat poop!!!!
Yes, definitely clean yours out if you can. You should be able to feel the drain hole poking out the front, and visibly see the rubber duct (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Firewall_Air_Duct_Tube) that aims the drain water downward to the ground. Stuck there between the wheel well and firewall, it'll be visible as a 90 degree soft rubber thingy with a flat tip, or just a round nipple fitting sticking straight out (if the rubber has long since exited the building). Clean that and you should only get splash water when driving with it open.

FYI there are two available vents for warm weather days. One is this driver's side one that you open with the flap/door. The other is the passenger side heater inlet.
If you "Pull For Heat" but leave the TEMP Control knob pushed all the way in for cold, air flows gently through the heater ducting and out on to the floor.
This one is usually best for coolish/warmish days, because often as not there is enough residual heat in the system to keep the air from ever getting truly cool. But if your temp control valve under the hood seals well, and your square shaped seals between the hood and duct are functioning properly, you can actually get some decent temp air flowing through the system.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,102
Now don't be deleting your junk Doug. I'm just on a roll. Pumped up and looking forward to going in to work tomorrow.:cool:

Paul
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,102
Besides... Yours probably included pictures with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back, describing the carnage.

Paul
 

Prizefighter

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Joined
Feb 24, 2010
Messages
1,192
jlawyer, who did you buy this Bronco from? Did it come from Arkansas? This looks exactly like a Bronco I've seen in person.
 
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jlawyer

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Joined
Mar 28, 2015
Messages
114
jlawyer, who did you buy this Bronco from? Did it come from Arkansas? This looks exactly like a Bronco I've seen in person.

I did some checking on this recently, the vehicle was previously titled in Virginia based on the title I received. Another VIN check I did previously mentioned it was titled in AL, but maybe I am misremembering, and it was AR. Dunno

I haven't mentioned where I purchased from out of sheer embarrassment. I bought the Bronco from World Wide Vintage Auto... They provided photos and videos as I requested additional details. Finally I had an ASE Master tech visit and inspect the vehicle. My main concern was body rust and frame integrity. I was told plenty of things needed attention, but I figured any mechanical issues could be solved with some wrench time. The ASE tech did not do a compression test, and had they done that, I would have passed on the vehicle.

After I started running into trouble, I did some more thorough research on WWVA, and I realized I had made a mistake.

In the end, I was sold a vehicle which was ambiguously represented. Nothing was out-right misstated but the process of tuning the vehicle exposed one problem after the other because of the downstream effects. There is no way they were completely unaware.

Live and learn I suppose.
 

Prizefighter

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Joined
Feb 24, 2010
Messages
1,192
You have a great mentality and glad to hear that you are working through the issues. I haven't heard of WWVA and was only curious thinking it may have come from an individual who deals with Broncos in AR, sometimes fabricating the quality of the trucks and their internal condition.

It is a beautiful Bronco from the pictures you've shared and I hope you enjoy driving it. They really are a blast and all the time and money spent seems worth it when you're making memories in them.
 
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jlawyer

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2015
Messages
114
Starter Troubles...

I drove the truck all week. I returned home from work last night... I was home for maybe 15 minutes; we hopped back in to go to dinner and after turning over for a split second, the starter stopped spinning. I could hear the bendix move when turning the key, but nothing else.

So this morning I checked all the voltages from the starter solenoid and battery. Finally I decided to pull the starter and found some odd bits in it when I did.

2015-09-12%2015.03.21.jpg


2015-09-12%2015.04.11.jpg


I checked the starter using the battery but didn't get it to work; took it to AutoZone and had them test it... worked fine. Reinstalled and it rotates normally, but it's not engaging the flex-plate.
 
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