TheDrifter
Newbie
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Is it ok, to just keep the Hubs locked even if I have no intention of putting it into 4WD in the immediate future?
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Keeping Hubs Locked?
- Thread starter TheDrifter
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TheDrifter
Newbie
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2019
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Thanks. Appreciate it.
Hi, I would not keep either the hubs locked or the transfer case in 4wd full time.
You do not need the wear and tear on the drive line.
Good luck hi
You do not need the wear and tear on the drive line.
Good luck hi
gnpenning
Bronco Slave
Not into putting wear on parts unnecessarily. But it has been done.
203 tcases are full time and used slugs instead of hubs for years from the factory
203 tcases are full time and used slugs instead of hubs for years from the factory
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
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- 47,946
If you have a limited-slip or locking differential, don't do it. Yes, you can lock them in and drive a bit as the "maintenance" mentioned already, but with the traction aiding device you are either wearing out the clutches prematurely, or making the steering not happy if you have a locker.
If it's an open diff then it's no different than a stock Bronco. After all, the lockouts were an option from the factory at least in the beginning. Once gas prices started to rise and fuel economy was "a thing" to be noted, they probably became standard equipment at some point.
As said, you do put more wear and tear on things, but not more than you would have originally without the locking mechanism. The parts I would not want to wear out prematurely though, include the spindle bearings and the axle shaft u-joints. The gears can probably handle it no problem (they're not really under any load so to speak) but the bearings are going to need more maintenance or they're going to fail.
If you're diligent about it, and re-pack your wheel bearings and spindle bearings every 15k to 25k miles, or every year or three if you don't drive it regularly, then they'll be fine.
But I'd hate to add replacing them to my normal maintenance schedule if I didn't have to!
You need to run them locked so you don't have to get out in the snow? Or just want to run them locked because you want to run them locked?
If a snow kind of thing, just do it in the winter months. If you just want to do it because, don't.
Paul
If it's an open diff then it's no different than a stock Bronco. After all, the lockouts were an option from the factory at least in the beginning. Once gas prices started to rise and fuel economy was "a thing" to be noted, they probably became standard equipment at some point.
As said, you do put more wear and tear on things, but not more than you would have originally without the locking mechanism. The parts I would not want to wear out prematurely though, include the spindle bearings and the axle shaft u-joints. The gears can probably handle it no problem (they're not really under any load so to speak) but the bearings are going to need more maintenance or they're going to fail.
If you're diligent about it, and re-pack your wheel bearings and spindle bearings every 15k to 25k miles, or every year or three if you don't drive it regularly, then they'll be fine.
But I'd hate to add replacing them to my normal maintenance schedule if I didn't have to!
You need to run them locked so you don't have to get out in the snow? Or just want to run them locked because you want to run them locked?
If a snow kind of thing, just do it in the winter months. If you just want to do it because, don't.
Paul
Broncobowsher
Total hack
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For the longest time it was common to lock the hubs in the fall and not unlock them until spring. That way 4wd was just a lever away. Might unlock them if the weather was nice and you had a long drive, fuel economy. But you curse when you forget to lock them again before the next big snow.
Locking hubs were an extra cost option originally.
As long as there isn't a pre-existing problem, leaving them locked won't hurt anything. Except some fuel economy. Not really wearing anything either, nothing is loaded, only freewheeling.
Locking hubs were an extra cost option originally.
As long as there isn't a pre-existing problem, leaving them locked won't hurt anything. Except some fuel economy. Not really wearing anything either, nothing is loaded, only freewheeling.
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2001
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- 9,002
I disagree that because there isn't a load on the parts (freewheeling) that they aren't wearing.
So if you "just spun" a driveline lets say for 50,000 miles w/o a load there wouldn't be any wear?
So if you "just spun" the bearings in the diff for 50,000 miles w/o a load there wouldn't be any wear?
Show me some pics of something rotating for the equivalent of 50,000 miles like spindle seals, axle seals, needle brgs in the ujoints, bearings in the transfer case or any other part that won't have any wear after 50K miles (or whatever number of miles).
If the guy drives his rig 50 miles/mo then there's nothing to worry about but we have no idea how many miles the OP puts on his rig... there's still quite a few of us that use our Broncos and put a thousand miles or more on a month. 50K miles is just over 4 years at 12K miles a year...
Like Paul said, why do extra maintenance on parts especially if you have the option of not putting wear on the parts...? Just doesn't make any sense to me...
Nobody that I wheel with leaves their hubs in all winter...we get out and unlock/lock them in for every trip. Same when wheeling in the rocks or wherever- even us selectable locker guys...less wear.
So if you "just spun" a driveline lets say for 50,000 miles w/o a load there wouldn't be any wear?
So if you "just spun" the bearings in the diff for 50,000 miles w/o a load there wouldn't be any wear?
Show me some pics of something rotating for the equivalent of 50,000 miles like spindle seals, axle seals, needle brgs in the ujoints, bearings in the transfer case or any other part that won't have any wear after 50K miles (or whatever number of miles).
If the guy drives his rig 50 miles/mo then there's nothing to worry about but we have no idea how many miles the OP puts on his rig... there's still quite a few of us that use our Broncos and put a thousand miles or more on a month. 50K miles is just over 4 years at 12K miles a year...
Like Paul said, why do extra maintenance on parts especially if you have the option of not putting wear on the parts...? Just doesn't make any sense to me...
Nobody that I wheel with leaves their hubs in all winter...we get out and unlock/lock them in for every trip. Same when wheeling in the rocks or wherever- even us selectable locker guys...less wear.
That's correct, when I bought my first new Ford 4x4,a 1977 F150,that's what was in the owner's manual. I think it also said something about locking the hubs in for the first 50 or 100 miles for a new vehicle. Man that was a long time ago.
Broncobowsher
Total hack
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Considering that the gears and bearings will last a few hundred thousand miles when loaded as a driving axle, spinning them freely won't make any noticeable difference in there life. If you want to parts to be like new forever, don't drive it.
Seals are about the only thing that might have wear to them, but they will generally age (rubber rot) first. And I have seen arguments that regular exercise is good for a seal where one that just sits and is suddenly woken will suddenly fail.
Seals are about the only thing that might have wear to them, but they will generally age (rubber rot) first. And I have seen arguments that regular exercise is good for a seal where one that just sits and is suddenly woken will suddenly fail.
- Joined
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- 24,335
I have rebuilt quite a few D20s over the years. One thing that I've seen that stands out is frequent excessive wear at the front yoke seal area. You may initially think this is caused by constantly running with hubs locked but it is actually the opposite. Rear yokes are generally in good condition and they turn constantly. Its not because the yokes are different, they are the same part. What happens with the front yoke is moisture gets between the seal and yoke and causes minor rust and pitting. When the front axle is finally engaged that minor rust turns into scoring. So lock your hubs occasionally, cook out the water and keep the lube moving down there.
blubuckaroo
Grease Monkey
When headed to a trail, I like to lock in the hubs before leaving home. That way everything is warmed up. Also, when we get snow, I leave my hubs locked in until the roads are clear.
These vehicles were made to operate under all conditions with the hubs locked in. Certainly it will add a load to your mileage, and normal wear to the gears, bearings, and u-joints, but you're not going to hurt anything.
That is unless you've done something to change the front pinion angle. There's a point of contention here about increasing castor angle with degreed "C" bushings. If that's the case, you could notice a vibration when on the highway with the hubs locked.
These vehicles were made to operate under all conditions with the hubs locked in. Certainly it will add a load to your mileage, and normal wear to the gears, bearings, and u-joints, but you're not going to hurt anything.
That is unless you've done something to change the front pinion angle. There's a point of contention here about increasing castor angle with degreed "C" bushings. If that's the case, you could notice a vibration when on the highway with the hubs locked.
2003 Tacoma. Detroit TruTrak in front diff. Grenaded, as in self-deconstructing, after less than 50k mostly street miles. Arguably sample of one but put together by a reputable shop in the Sacramento area. (As an aside, note utterly reliable ARB and locking hub equipped Bronco, in background). As best as we can figure, being driven constantly by the left front wheel may not have been helpful, given presence of limited slip diff. Right side has disconnect. Isolating the thing so the truck could be driven (diff was bound up by chunks of metal) was not fun. Would manual locking hubs have saved it? Can't say, though it sure would've been nice to have them after the fact.
needabronco
Bronco Guru
We're supposed to unlock them?
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- Jul 31, 2001
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- 9,002
Interesting how saving wear doesn't seem to bother some...WHY CREATE more wear in a part if it doesn't need it? Might leave the lights on in the room that you walk out of also ...because it really doesn't matter... you just pay more ... later! 
It's really OK ...doesn't matter to me at all...but to compare a part that MUST wear with every mile and laughing about it and comparing it to a part that doesn't need to wear- even a small amount...well, that's OK. I pick up coins that I see on the ground too! LOL
It's really OK ...doesn't matter to me at all...but to compare a part that MUST wear with every mile and laughing about it and comparing it to a part that doesn't need to wear- even a small amount...well, that's OK. I pick up coins that I see on the ground too! LOL
Broncobowsher
Total hack
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- Jun 4, 2002
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- 35,066
Don't want to wear out the lockout turning them in and out too may times.
... I'VE HAD A Good bit of experience with that issue .
Since I farm I'm always in the pasture . SO MY FRONT HUBS ARE LOCKED MOST OF THE TIMES . oN MY OJ Bronco I've probable got more miles on it than any of mine .. But I'd come out of the pasture & head into town . If I'm running 70ish I can feel the vibration & I know my hubs are lock . Even though my T/C is in natural.
So I tried to keep mine unlocked .
But if I was on a road moving from one lease place to another & Say I was only going to run 40 mph. & got 3 miles down the road . I'd just leave them locked .
...I've alway felt it's better to have them unlocked if their not needed . Don't wear the shaft if no need to.
Since I farm I'm always in the pasture . SO MY FRONT HUBS ARE LOCKED MOST OF THE TIMES . oN MY OJ Bronco I've probable got more miles on it than any of mine .. But I'd come out of the pasture & head into town . If I'm running 70ish I can feel the vibration & I know my hubs are lock . Even though my T/C is in natural.
So I tried to keep mine unlocked .
But if I was on a road moving from one lease place to another & Say I was only going to run 40 mph. & got 3 miles down the road . I'd just leave them locked .
...I've alway felt it's better to have them unlocked if their not needed . Don't wear the shaft if no need to.
