• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Leaking Advance Adapter D20 to M5R2

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,946
Loc.
Conway, AR
Well I'm stumped. I even used the D20 seal AA states isn't needed. Will tear it down tomorrow.

Suggestions?

Tim
 

Attachments

  • 20220403_201055.jpg
    20220403_201055.jpg
    189.5 KB · Views: 145

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,549
well I dont get it either. Is it trans oil or transfer case oil?
 
OP
OP
Timmy390

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,946
Loc.
Conway, AR
Trans extension housing is dry. I suspected the trans rear output shaft seal but it's all dry.

Got the ring off the D20 and the adapter out. The adapter was full of oil.

I even used the seal AA says isn't really needed.

I'm stumped.

Tim
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,549
so your getting dana 20 oil in the extension housing? The seal is an O ring? Is that correct? I went on AA adapters and could not find the kit. I was hoping to see the parts needed.
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,549
dana 20 oil in the adapter. Not the extension housing
 
OP
OP
Timmy390

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,946
Loc.
Conway, AR
D20 oil dripping between the extension housing and D20 adaptor ring.

It's definitely the adapter leaking. Housing dry as a bone.

It's the AA ZF adapter. It works on both ZF and M5ODR2

Tim
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,549
OK. I will go look again. The oil seal is not a in backwards is it?
 
OP
OP
Timmy390

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,946
Loc.
Conway, AR
I'll find out as I disassemble it. Don't think it is. Also lubed it before installing the spud shaft.

AA says the seal is not needed. The kit don't come with it. I ordered it from WH

Tim
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,549
Found it. Looks like only 2 possibilities . leaking thru the bolts on the adapter ring. or around the sealed bearing
 

Attachments

  • 50-4303.pdf (dragged).pdf
    136 KB · Views: 161

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,549
I am not sure how the attachment will work but it blows up for me and you are correct. there is no seal other than thread sealant and the sealed bearing. the O ring I was thinking about is outboard of your leak. Sorry not much help
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,549
What is the bolt with the 2 O rings on it do?
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,549
The more I look at this the more I think your oil seal is in backwards. In the instructions it does say you need the seal and it gives you an oil seal part number.
 
OP
OP
Timmy390

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,946
Loc.
Conway, AR
I think the seal can only be driven in one way.....but disassembly will tell the tail. Could be just seal failure. It's been over a month and it JUST started leaking. No drips till Friday and no evidence it's been leaking. No mess on the crossmember.

Tim
 
OP
OP
Timmy390

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,946
Loc.
Conway, AR
Followed the instructions here.....
While it's for a NV3550 the adaptor assembly is the same.

Going to start the adaptor autopsy in a bit.

Tim
 
OP
OP
Timmy390

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,946
Loc.
Conway, AR
Seal appears to be installed correctly and install grease is still there. Verified spring in on the seal.

Guess at this point I'm taking the bearing out, replacing it and the seal. See what happens?

Tim
 

Attachments

  • 20220404_094755.jpg
    20220404_094755.jpg
    145.6 KB · Views: 116
  • 20220404_094808.jpg
    20220404_094808.jpg
    143.4 KB · Views: 101

jamesroney

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
2,596
Loc.
Fremont, CA
Seal appears to be installed correctly and install grease is still there. Verified spring in on the seal.

Guess at this point I'm taking the bearing out, replacing it and the seal. See what happens?

Tim
When you knock the seal out...can you just check it on the OD of the spud shaft and see if it has a light interference fit? If the OD of the spud shaft is ground undersized, it might be the cause of your leak. (Seal / Shaft tolerance issue) If you don't have good measuring tools, then just pop out the seal, check the part number and get the nominal shaft diameter from the seal catalog and compare that to the measured shaft OD.

I am 99.9% sure that there is nothing wrong with that bearing. but it would be worth it to measure the runout on the seal surface.

Also, make 100% sure that the breather on the Dana 20 output shaft is not plugged. If the t-case is pressurizing, it will find a way to leak...and if often leaks there.

Please get this fixed ASAP. I was looking forward to your progress on the Prius EPS conversion, and this seems to be getting in the way!
 
OP
OP
Timmy390

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,946
Loc.
Conway, AR
When you knock the seal out...can you just check it on the OD of the spud shaft and see if it has a light interference fit? If the OD of the spud shaft is ground undersized, it might be the cause of your leak. (Seal / Shaft tolerance issue) If you don't have good measuring tools, then just pop out the seal, check the part number and get the nominal shaft diameter from the seal catalog and compare that to the measured shaft OD.

I am 99.9% sure that there is nothing wrong with that bearing. but it would be worth it to measure the runout on the seal surface.

Also, make 100% sure that the breather on the Dana 20 output shaft is not plugged. If the t-case is pressurizing, it will find a way to leak...and if often leaks there.

Please get this fixed ASAP. I was looking forward to your progress on the Prius EPS conversion, and this seems to be getting in the way!
Well I suspect it's the seal......I practically fell out when I pressed the bearing out. An old wheel bearing retainer form my Samurai is the same size as the inner race on the bearing plus it fits through the seal. Same diameter as the spud shaft, When I pressed the bearing out...the seal "fell out". No sign of it spinning but clearly it wasn't tight in the housing/adapter. Just the pressure of the retainer going through the seal pushed it out.

I always put some RTV on these drive in seals because I've had them leak before but it appears I didn't this time. You SHOULDN'T have to as it's a tight enough fit.

I don't recall the seal just dropping in. I used a seal driver on it. Seal is the "good one" WH sells. Guess I'll clean it al up and get the calipers out......Appears to be no damage to the seal or bearing from pressing. Might just throw it all back together and use RTV on it this time.

As to the EPS....This is CLEARLY in the way. I picked up a full system for $119 this weekend (I take care of 2 Sams). Put it on the workbench and it works. Next step is graph it into the steering rod and hook up 3 wires.

Tim
 

jamesroney

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
2,596
Loc.
Fremont, CA
I've never put RTV on the outside of a seal. If the seal and bore are correct, then it should press in tight, and the hoop stress of the seal should keep it from weeping. The seal manufacturer goes to great length to paint the OD with sealant. If the seal fit is wrong, no amount of glue seems to matter. Kinda strange that your's would fall out. But it sounds like you are on your way.

Far more interesting is the EPS. I'm building a Sunbeam Tiger and working on fitting a Power Rack. If your EPS is a winner, you might save me a ton of work. I'll stay tuned...
 

Yeller

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
7,688
Loc.
Rogers County Oklahoma
I use locktite, green if I have it, if not red, if in doubt on a seal. has enough "grip" to hang onto it, even bearings that just drop in that should be pressed.
 
Top