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lessons learned so you don't have to- 7.3L godzilla

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cscotted

cscotted

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I guess i need to go back to the beginning and update some things.

It runs and drives, its amazing, the torque is instantaneous and im very happy with it. It was a lot of work but it didnt have to be as hard as i made it, i think others could do it and much cheaper. I also think the hours i put in could be reduced a lot also. I wound up doing things multiple times, i also chased things ( body lift) that had i given into earlier would have made things much easier and cheaper.
I did get the columb shift figured out and am very happy about that!

Glad to help if anyone has questions.
 

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hossbronco

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I’m in the middle of a Godzilla swap, but going at a slower pace than you. Some things that I’m doing differently are:

1. Going with a dry sump by Dailey Engineering. The pan depth is 1.7” below the block (see image). The challenge is finding room for the oil reservoir. I’m also using the Innovators West harmonic damper, which has better clearance than stock.

2. Using the Ford Performance intake with the 92 mm GT500 TB.

3. OBR Control System.

4. Indy Power Products FEAD. This uses a ‘94-‘95 Ford 302/351 water pump. I bet this could be modified to use the Explorer water pump and mechanical fan. I’ve worked with IPP to select my own accessories for better performance offroad. I’m using the FlowKooler water pump, the PSC high-flow CBR pump, and a 270 amp large-body alternator (the large body gives me better performance at low RPMs). I’m working with IPP (see image) to create a variation of their design that fits the large-bodied alternator (has to move outward to clear the head/valve cover) and moves the A/C compressor up high (their current design places their compressor where my dry sump pump will go). I have concerns about whether the alternator will clear my steering shaft/box (4x4x2 conversion) and I wish the power steering pump were on the drivers side, but otherwise I’m very happy with this setup this far. It’s about to enter the fabrication phase.

5. Ron Davis radiator and Vintage Air Monster fan (SPAL, 19”, brushless).

6. BTR cam (soon to be released) & Johnson lifters.

Like you I’m using a 6R80, Quick 6, Atlas 2, hydroboost brakes, and Lokar floor shifter. I currently have a 2” body life and stock Dana 44, but once I get this rolling on the street I’ll be building custom full-width axles. Thanks for posting your experiences as they’ll certainly be very helpful to me.
 

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cscotted

cscotted

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Honest- Its definitely different - better - but not a night and day difference that would warrant the money and man hours-( in my opinion). I really enjoyed the challenge though- What i did gain (hopefully) is a more modern stock setup with longer longevity compared to the 351w-

Im very happy with it- so far.
 
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cscotted

cscotted

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I’m in the middle of a Godzilla swap, but going at a slower pace than you. Some things that I’m doing
Hoss- it looks like you are going high quality on your parts and spending time thinking it out- kudos to you ! I wish you the best on your swap-

Im not sure what facility you have access to but here would be a pointer from me before you start-

i moved my engine three times. No more than 1” each time. Pinion offset ( not angle) wants the engine over to the passenger side- french the frame for the starter - about 1/4” inset

Also if you can rework the firewall near the steering column support bracket ( towards the center of the bronco- this will allow the driver side cyl head to move back farther giving you much more clearance up front for your massive throttle body. - the dampner isnt the problem-
 

hossbronco

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I guess that explains why the ACME firewall exists.
 

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cscotted

cscotted

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Its not mandatory. Or a must for the godzilla. But if its out and you have the capability to recess a small area about 6x8” of the firewall it will give you gobs of room later. I wouldnt have done that acme firewall mod if it was given to me free. It just wasn't necessary in my case.
 

hossbronco

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Are you still running the stock cam? I wouldn’t expect too much of a performance increase over a well-built 351W with a stock Godzilla, other than having more torque at low RPMs and a flatter torque curve. You’d probably get more of a performance increase going from the 4R70W to the 6R80.

With a new cam and tune I’d think you could really unlock the performance potential of this engine; getting 615 hp on a mild tune while keeping the flat torque curve and performance at low RPMs.

Also, some people believe the lifter issues the Godzilla is having are related to the variable pressure oil pump, though that’s just a theory. Others are blaming the VCT. Some of the more informed people, such as Brian Wolfe, are speculating it may be lifter production quality in the early years. As I’m running a dry sump oil pump, a cam with a locked-out VCT, and Johnson lifters, I’m hopeful I’ll be able to avoid this his concern. I’m curious what you’re doing to manage this or if it’s just not a concern for you.
 
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cscotted

cscotted

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Are you still running the stock cam? I wouldn’t expect too much of a performance increase over a well-built 351W with a stock Godzilla, other than having more torque at low RPMs and a flatter torque curve. You’d probably get more of a performance increase going from the 4R70W to the 6R80.

With a new cam and tune I’d think you could really unlock the performance potential of this engine; getting 615 hp on a mild tune while keeping the flat torque curve and performance at low RPMs.

Also, some people believe the lifter issues the Godzilla is having are related to the variable pressure oil pump, though that’s just a theory. Others are blaming the VCT. Some of the more informed people, such as Brian Wolfe, are speculating it may be lifter production quality in the early years. As I’m running a dry sump oil pump, a cam with a locked-out VCT, and Johnson lifters, I’m hopeful I’ll be able to avoid this his concern. I’m curious what you’re doing to manage this or if it’s just not a concern for you.
Its not a concern for me today- im not stressing this engine at the track- i know there are “issues” out there but i think you can find issues with any engine, i think negativity gets reported at a much faster rate than positive experiences. Typically all the 7.3 super duty owners who love their engines dont get on you tube or wherever to say how trouble free their trucks are , but bet your butt people will type a manifesto if something breaks randomly.

I would like to put a cam in later and swap to the holley oil pump but i just didnt want to keep investing in something i didnt even know would work out- i had enough coin in the swap as it was at the time and had quite a bit of uncertainty of things panning out as it was.

Now i can just enjoy it and mod where i see fit and when i see fit but for the time being im just driving it again.
 

hossbronco

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That’s probably a smart move. There’s a time when I was on the verge of new pistons and rods, but reason and budget won out. I’m sure I’ll do it later, but I just want to get it on the road.

Thanks again for the fitment suggestions. The exhaust manifolds have been the biggest concern of mine. At some point I’d like to build my own headers, but I think for now I’m going to stick to what you did.
 
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cscotted

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yeah. I was going to build my headers but went the quickest route of modifying the manifolds.

Tricktools.com has a nice builder set i want but it will be later also..
 

nvrstuk

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Engine labs has a write up on making the Godzilla oil Pan shorter in their article. I believe Indy Labs is the company that makes the parts.

I don't subscribe to engine labs because I have to get all the advertising. But something popped up and so I looked at it :( lol
 

rguest3

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Engine labs has a write up on making the Godzilla oil Pan shorter in their article. I believe Indy Labs is the company that makes the parts.

I don't subscribe to engine labs because I have to get all the advertising. But something popped up and so I looked at it :( lol

Indy Power, Holley and Fat Fender Garage all have a shorter (not as deep) oil pan set-up for the Godzilla.
 
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