Locker question: Front or Rear?

[Stingray240cs]

Hey guys. I picked up a Lock-Right Locker (2410) today for my Dana 44 front axle. I started thinking and was wondering if I should even be locking the front. This will be more of a weekend driver with some trail riding. Should I be more focused on locking the rear only, lock both, or is front only okay? Thanks.

 

[Stingray240cs]

Maybe I should have mentioned that this is a stock 302, 3 spd manual, and 35" tires.

 

[67 Halfcab]

Do you have power steering? If so, I would do both if you could, front if you could only afford one for now.

 

[matts460]

Well for what its worth I loooovve my Detroit true trac in the rear of my bronco! Great traction for snow/ice before I even shift in 4. And cant tell its there in summer under normal driving. Much improved over the Ford TracLock. Front is open.

 

[Stingray240cs]

I do have power steering. I wasn't even thinking locker but came across a Craigslist deal that I couldn't pass up.

I heard good things about the true trac Matt. I just found one on CL for a good price but it's for the front also.

 

[broncnaz]

Personally Id rather have one in the rear. As was said you go a lot of places with one in the rear before even shifting into 4wd.
But if its a tru trac then thats a good option for the front. No reason to pass up a good deal you can always do the rear later on.

 

[Stingray240cs]

I didn't buy a true trac although I did find one online tonight on CL. I actually bought a Powertrax lock-right that I also found on Craigslist. I know lock-right isn't everyone's first choice but it was a steal.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Under some circumstances, an open rear is better. If you drive on wet and icy roads, an open rear is safer. You would have the front locker when you really need it. Sounds like a good combination.

 

[crab]

I agree with the open rear for a driver. Put it in and you may never put a locker in the rear.

 

[broncnaz]

bad news is lock rights are not recommended for tires over 33in. There are lots of people running them with bigger tires with no issues. Of course for just easy trail rides you should be fine just keep in mind you'll be more apt to start breaking front axle shafts.

 

[Stingray240cs]

That's what I was afraid of, tire size. I wonder if I should eBay it and try to get something else. Here's the deal when I say it was a steal, it was a steal. I paid $20 for it brand new in the box never installed. So even though I had read that 33" was the limit I couldn't pass it up.

 

[broncnaz]

Thats a steal. Id probably use it unless you wheel hard. Even then its the axle shafts that seem to become the weaker link. Again many people have run them with big tires and hard wheeling. For the price and fairly easy install you can run it and if you dont like it take it out and sell it easily for more money.
You may find yourself shifting in and out of 4wd with a front locker as the locked front will want to go its own way power steering or not thats where limited slips shine over lockers.

 

[inthmtns]

My first choice based on living in the Northwest and driving on snow/ice 6 months out of the year is selectable lockers front and rear. Open diffs are way more stable on icy highways.

Second choice is locked/spooled rear and selectable front locker (OX Locker).

Third (which I run in my Bronco) is Detroit rear and limited slip front.
A tight limited slip or locker in the front on slick, icy roads make a vehicle spooky to drive. The front end is always 'hunting' back and forth... especially on a short wheel base rig.

I've heard some folks complain about rear Detroit Lockers being unpredictable on slick roads too, (again, especially SWB vehicles) but I never had any complaints, just steer it with the rear end! lol

I did drive a friends CJ5 H(J)EEP with a Detroit rear and every time you transitioned on/off the gas the Detoit locked/unlocked and forcibly made the Heep change lanes.... violently. It was ridiculous.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Having a variety of different differentials, and twin stick transfer case so I could pot power where I wanted when I wanted. A locked rear is generally more capable then 4WD with open diffs. A locked front in normal wheeling does nothing for you, only when you get to the limits does it shine. The locked front has plenty of draw backs (harder on shafts and U-joints, sometimes will plow straight even with the wheels turned for no good reason, nearly impossible to turn the steering at times as well). But for $20 that is a smoking deal. But if your carrier has too much wear and the clearances are not right it can act up. Mine (in a brand new carrier) worked great with 33s even in rocks, very capable of breaking U-joints (stock and larger).

 

[matts460]

Well the TruTrac is an limited slip, the one for the 9inch has 100ftlb pre load. So its similar to Ford TracLock. Its very user friendly and if you have good tire that actually grip on ice and snow its no problem so much more traction wouldnt need 4wheel most times. But in the winter i also keep both tanks full. Broncos do well in winter thats for sure, better than most trucks. Point is ive been stuck with one wheel peel on ice and snow in other trucks/cars and anything with limited slip will offer more traction for obvouse reasons. Just because it 4x4 doesnt mean you get to drive like loon in bad weather Ive seen it first hand on highway LOL as i mosey on by in my front wheel drive car on way to work! I relise thats a bit off subject since this would see trails i suppose senaro would be similar thou. Theres always some pros and cons to this stuff. I always liked the Idea of the older broncos having option of limited slip front and rear, ultimatly would be hard to beat. Put that thing in front and setup that CL true trac for the rear call it good!

 

[Stingray240cs]

Lot's of great feedback. I really appreciate everyone taking the time to help out. Since I have some other pressing projects at the moment like hydroboost,twin sticks, and transmission swap or repair, I think I'm going to just go ahead and throw it in the front and run it. I don't think I can lose for $20.

One thing I can't understand is why a diff being locked would effect steering. Is it becuase they are turning at the same speed and that makes it harder to make the turn? When you say it's hard to turn, do you mean it's physically hard to turn the steering wheel or it just wants to keep driving forward even as the steering wheel is turned? Or both?

 

[PaveBronco]

Hard to steer because the shafts are locked, inner and outer tires spin at different speeds while cornering, until the torque overcomes the locker spring pressure and slips some teeth. Usually though that only happens on high grip trail surfaces, and you may not even notice it until you try to make a tight turn. I put Lockrights front and rear, worked great on the NM trails, but with more street than trail out here in TX I think I’m going to pull it. I did a twin stick to use the front for those icy/snowy winter days so that’s incompatible with a locked front. Good job on the $20 deal.

 

[garberz]

........One thing I can't understand is why a diff being locked would effect steering. Is it becuase they are turning at the same speed and that makes it harder to make the turn? When you say it's hard to turn, do you mean it's physically hard to turn the steering wheel or it just wants to keep driving forward even as the steering wheel is turned? Or both?

I wheeled a season with just a lunch box up front, it was a big difference from having opens F&R. You'll quickly see the difference. Those type of lockers are 100% lock up when you are applying torque to the front pinion (foot on pedal) and you'll feel it in the steering wheel. Many times your power steering won't be able to overcome it, and it just won't turn. It will release when the torque is unloaded, but the best way to control it, is to twin stick your T-case and use 2Wlo in those situations.

Mark

 

[Stingray240cs]

Thanks for the tips guys. I should have my twin sticks today and installed soon. I still need some transmission work before I can drive it but it won't be long.

When I saw the $20 price on CL I thought he must have meant $200, but then I saw the picture and it clearly showed $20.

Only thing I'm not sure of is if it's missing the pin or if it's supposed to come with one. If it is missing I guess I need to order one. This is all that came in the box.

 

[garberz]

They don't come with the cross pin. Check yours for excessive wear, also check your carrier for any signs of cracking. Those lockers work by spreading against the carrier. You can read Admin's tech article about the install, to see what your getting into. The Lock-rite and Aussie are basically the same thing.

http://classicbroncos.com/tech/aussie-locker

Mark