Longer wheel studs for 1/4 wheel spacers

[brewchief]

ARP #100-7707 looks real close but has a slightly smaller knurl(.618), I looked a bunch a year ago and they were the closest I found, I thought about having new holes drilled in the hub and rotor if need be to use a stud with a different size knurl. I would buy the ARPs to try but they are over 80$ for a set of 5, hard to gamble on those.

 

[Timmy390]

ARP #100-7707 looks real close but has a slightly smaller knurl(.618), I looked a bunch a year ago and they were the closest I found, I thought about having new holes drilled in the hub and rotor if need be to use a stud with a different size knurl. I would buy the ARPs to try but they are over 80$ for a set of 5, hard to gamble on those.

Looked at those during my search and they are very close. The only thing I worry about on them is the knurl diameter being smaller (.618 vs. .625) thus worried the stud will not "bite" as it should. Rotor, hub and stud needs to be a snug as possible.

Found them on Ebay for $66 free shipping.......Not ruling them out as an option if I can't figure something out and need studs.

Tim

 

[Nickm1024cobra]

Technically, you want 8 full turns of thread engagement, at which point the threads are as strong as the minimum tensile strength of the stud. That said, the first thread or two are not required to be a full thread form per certain thread standards, so I use 10 turns as my baseline for most automotive/truck applications. With a 1/2-20 studs, this equates to 1/2" of thread engagement, which matches Justafordguy's recommendation.

This is the info you need. 8 full turns has always been my guide.

 

[.94 OR]

Anybody come up with a good source?

I just pushed out 5 front drum studs due to a loose wheel somewhere along in the rigs history. I need at least 5 replacements. A 1/4" longer would be nice in the process since I have the old style mag wheels without a tapered nut.

 

[charlie6976]

Not sure if this helps, but Moser Engineering has a 3'' long stud with the .625 knurl. Part #8010.

 

[ntsqd]

ARP will make the studs you need if you ask nicely and with your wallet in your hand. They may have already made them for someone else. They'll want to make 10 sets if they still do it the way they did when I asked about making longer front wheel studs for a Toyota Mini live axle. At ten sets the price became almost reasonable considering, but I couldn't get enough non-cheapskates interested.

 

[mudstud]

I am using 1/4" spacers. I only got 5 1/2 turns with the standard lug(bottom lug). I used a shank lug (top lug) and got 10 1/2 turns.

 

[.94 OR]

I had to stop by my favorite Les Schwab and get some replacements. Pretty close overall but no longer than stock.

 

[Timmy390]

Wanted to update this thread as I've had several ask if I ever found longer studs.

No I didn't. Looks like the best way is to have some made. I found some that were close but not close enough for my liking.

If you have drum brakes, you can run the big bronco (78-79) studs in the front and get a few threads longer.

The studs are different in the rear vs. the front. I think came across some longer rears on a Mustang site. Below are the stock measurements for the rear.
Stock Rear studs
DORMAN 610109
Shoulder Length (In) 0.563 In.
Knurl Diameter (In) 0.625 In.
Under Head Length 1.625 In.
Thread Size 1/2"-20
Quick-Start Nose No

I've got my new rims and tires on and for now, I'm not going to run spacers front or rear. My track issue was the cheap stop-gap china made Mud Star's I put on the rear to get me though till I upgraded wheels and tires. 265/75/16 my butt. They might say that but they are smaller in every dimension you can measure.

With the new tires, the wider track in the front is not noticeable. I mean it's there but like other said, you really can't tell. So I'm not going to mess with it at this point in time.

Sorry I didn't find the fix to the longer stud issue but hope this thread helps someone.

Tim

 

[ntsqd]

These are the closest that I've found: http://www.arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=63
UHL 3.500˝
Knurl Diameter 0.625˝
Knurl Length 0.400˝
Nose Length 0.437˝
Diameter - Pitch 1/2-20
2.66" of thread, but the .163" shorter knurl probably kills it from consideration.

The other way to go, but it means machining a wear part, which I particularly don't like but sometimes is the best route forward, is to move up to a 5/8" wheel stud. Use those already made for racing and drill both the hubs and the drums and/or rotors to have the correct hole size for those studs.

For instance, this stud: http://www.arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=1816
has these dimensions:

Thread Length 1.600˝
UHL 2.450˝
Knurl Length 0.500˝
Knurl Diameter 0.660˝
Diameter - Pitch 5/8-18

It is slightly shorter in knurl length, but not enough to matter, it is slightly larger in knurl diameter - so metal safe there; and it has .600" more thread length. 60° Cone Seat type lug nuts in 5/8-18 aren't too difficult, but other types probably are. These are most likely double sided: http://www.arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=1841

 

[rguest3]

That was my 77 that is in post #12.

17x8.5 Method NV Wheels with 4.75 Back Spacing
285/75/17 Nitto Trail MTs

1/4" Billet Aluminum Spacer on Front. Just to help a little with minimal Tire Rub on Radius Arm. I still had plenty of thread.

1 1/4" Bolt-On Billet Spacers on the Rear. Torqued to spec.

The track is as close to even as I could get. To me, it just looks better. I have done the same with my current 71 Bronco.

 

[Timmy390]

That was my 77 that is in post #12.
17x8.5 Method NV Wheels with 4.75 Back Spacing
285/75/17 Nitto Trail MTs

You cost me $1500 posting up that pic. Duplicating that awesome look. My wife is pissed at you.....;D

I have a slight rub on the P side radius arm only. Guess my steering isn't centered. Going to play with it and see if I can't get it more balanced.