Looking for Pics of TRO set up with F150 knuckles. (Installed now)

[langester]

I have another thread about the wandering and ill manners of my front axle. I was hoping some of you out there might have some pictures of your front axle with TRO setups. I would like to see what it looks like with the F150 knuckles more than anything since that is what I am running. I am pretty sure I will be going to TRO but would like to see pics and hear any comments you might have on going that route. Any pitfalls or things to do at the same time would be great to hear as well.
As always Thanks in advance!

 

[SHX669]

Well it pretty much looks the same except the tie rod is on top of the knuckles instead connecting from the bottom.
If you are trying to get a feel for clearance or something then take the handle off your shop broom or the wifes mop and lay it on top of the knuckles.

 

[langester]

Ha, I did that last night. I would still like to see some pics of the set ups folks have, other brackets that might have been used or anything else I might not have my head wrapped around.
I appreciate the fast reply as well, Thanks!

 

[DirtDonk]

Have the same knuckles, but also the same under-the-knuckle setup as you.
In my case the difference is I replaced my original steering linkage with a custom cut-down version from an F150. We had not released our 3-way adjustable setup yet!

Always liked the idea of TRO for me too, but just for ground clearance when off road. I don't mind that it protects the diff cover of course, but more clearance is good usually.
Mine always steered like a dream though. WH drop bracket and Trailmaster dropped pitman arm for the F150 (looks similar to our #791275).

I did not think about the different pitman arm in your other discussion. Now I'm going to have to go back and look at your angles to see if that might be another option. Even if just for experimental purposes.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Nope, that would just make it worse. In my case I ended up with the shorter trackbar just slightly steeper than the longer F150 drag link (very minimal difference) but you have the opposite issue.

So on to Plan-B (yet to be determined)!

Paul

 

[langester]

I can't remember for sure if I got the pitman arm from WH or if it was one I had off of my F150 at one time. I never gave that a thought either, I would love to know if there is a difference for sure.
Thanks for the reply, I look forward to hearing what you find.

 

[DirtDonk]

There is definitely a difference. It's just in the wrong direction.
The F150 arm has less drop than the Bronco arms do.

They still fit the steering box however, which is what makes them a good problem-solver for things like converting '76 and '77 Broncos to the T-style steering. Or for converting to F150 steering linkage like I did because back then we did not have the tapered shims we have today either. That's why it was one of the things I suggested to Chuck from BCB at a Pomona Off-Road Expo many years ago. Figured it would help some, even if not me.

Too bad it would only make the mis-match worse as it sits right now. However, it might still be worth looking at after you swap to TRO if the drag link's upper end turns out too low. Which could happen.

Paul

 

[Spaggyroe]

I have F150 knuckles, TRO, and GM 1 ton tie rod ends.

The coils are wild horses 3-1/2", and I have a wild horses track bar riser bracket and an adjustable track bar. Pitman arm is stock, reamed for the 1 ton tie rod end.

Drag link and track bar angles are pretty much identical.

 

[Spaggyroe]

Let's try this again...

 

[langester]

Thank you for the pics. I like your set up, beefy for sure!

 

[arizona 71]

Same as Spaggroes above. (Ruff Stuff) DYI Y link steering with GM 1 ton TREs also get there weld in GM tapered sleeves, make life easy . I used Wild Horses adjustable track bar and there weld on riser. test fit track bar first then you can see what you need to do with drag link and pitman arm. You want to keep track bar and drag link Parallel to prevent bump steer. In my case the pitman arm I used it had to be shortened a bit for room. Also wheel and its offset can be a factor also. Gary

 

[sprdv1]

Let's try this again...

haha, don't you hate that

 

[Spaggyroe]

Side note for anyone looking to do the GM 1 ton TRO..

I wouldn't recommend getting your tapered ES2233L from TMR Customs.
They must start with some off brand, and are NOT built like the Moog. Here's a side by side shot with the Moog obviously being on the bottom.

Side, side note...
If someone IS ok with running the TMR brand, hit me up. I'll make you a good deal on it. LOL

Bottom line... it's not going on my rig.

 

[langester]

Same as Spaggroes above. (Ruff Stuff) DYI Y link steering with GM 1 ton TREs also get there weld in GM tapered sleeves, make life easy . I used Wild Horses adjustable track bar and there weld on riser. test fit track bar first then you can see what you need to do with drag link and pitman arm. You want to keep track bar and drag link Parallel to prevent bump steer. In my case the pitman arm I used it had to be shortened a bit for room. Also wheel and its offset can be a factor also. Gary

Thanks for the pics! I looked the Ruff Stuff sleeves up, did you weld the top and bottom of the sleeves? That sounds easier than reaming the holes and would save on buying a reamer. I am running F150 TRE's, by chance do you know if they are the same taper as the GM 1 ton TRE's?
Thanks in advance!

 

[langester]

Okay, I went back and reread Ruff Stuff's pages. I see they offer a set of sleeves that just need a hole drilled and put the insert in, no welding required. Anyone use these? Pros, cons, it seems too easy in my mind, if they work its a lot cheaper and quicker to go this route. Here is a link to the product.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER-2PK.html

 

[arizona 71]

IF I remember right I just welded the top and sanded flat, but you should not have to weld them at all because the TRE stud holds it all together it will just be a better fit. the f150 taper is different from the GM. Its much easer to just drill the old taper out and drop new sleeve in and weld it, just dont get crazy welding you might want to replace them some day. dont forget one for the pitman arm also. Gary

 

[arizona 71]

Hey, Langester I see now you are in Cortez. I love that town. Back when I was a young buck in 1976 me and a high school buddy moved to Farmington to work at the Four Corners power plant. His folks retired in Cortez and when we could we went up there to play, Dirt bikes, four wheel and camping. Me and the wife went thru there last summer and found a beautiful spot by a creek around Sawpit, and we spent two weeks there camping. We have been talking about a Colorado trip again, but with this Covid shit we have just stuck by the pool here. Phoenix 106 last time I checked. I went out in the garage a little while ago and I thought the paint was going to blister off the Bronco. Gary

 

[langester]

Hey, Langester I see now you are in Cortez. I love that town. Back when I was a young buck in 1976 me and a high school buddy moved to Farmington to work at the Four Corners power plant. His folks retired in Cortez and when we could we went up there to play, Dirt bikes, four wheel and camping. Me and the wife went thru there last summer and found a beautiful spot by a creek around Sawpit, and we spent two weeks there camping. We have been talking about a Colorado trip again, but with this Covid shit we have just stuck by the pool here. Phoenix 106 last time I checked. I went out in the garage a little while ago and I thought the paint was going to blister off the Bronco. Gary

I love this area, my Dad moved here in 76, been here on and off since then. I love this area as well. If you get down this direction shoot me a message, love to meet up with Bronco peeps! Thanks for the reply!

 

[DirtDonk]

I've never used the Ruff Stuff sleeves, but they always seemed like a great idea. Another reasonable solution to the whole tapered hole riddle.

Unfortunately I can't think of anyone directly that has used them either, but pretty sure at least a few members here have. Hopefully they'll all join in with their pros and cons.

Paul

 

[langester]

Okay, I went back and reread Ruff Stuff's pages. I see they offer a set of sleeves that just need a hole drilled and put the insert in, no welding required. Anyone use these? Pros, cons, it seems too easy in my mind, if they work its a lot cheaper and quicker to go this route. Here is a link to the product.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER-2PK.html

I am also curious if the F150 TRE will fit these, it says for Chevy 1 ton only but looks like they are the same taper. Maybe the 1 tons are larger diameter, not sure. I sent Ruff Stuff an email, hoping they can confirm or someone here has experience they can share.