LS3/6L80e Engine Swap into my 73

[Oldtimer]

Electrical gremlins are the worst to find.

I think your ignition system is looking for red bowtie (

) electrons,
and is rejecting the blue oval (

) electrons and they are backfeeding the running light system.
You need to add a Flux Capacitor to filter them out.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Here's a wiring update per Paul's questions:


Did you include all three power circuits to the fuse panel?
1. Switched power- Black w/green stripe feed. YES. This is my Switched Power Feed (ACC) to the Fuse Box
2. Constant power - Black w/yellow feed. YES. This is my Constant Power Feed (Battery) to the Fuse Box
3. Dash indicator light power - Blue w/red feed. YES. The Blue/Red wires are wired to the ACC side of the fuse box

 

[DirtDonk]

Normally, the blue with red wire is literally its own circuit.
It is not attached to either the black with yellow or the black with green wires. Power comes to it from the headlight switch only, and out to the dash lamps only.
Perhaps when you turn the key, this is sending some feedback into the headlamp switch? It’s certainly why your dash illumination would come on with the key. Didn’t you say that’s what it was doing?
Not sure how that would work, but the dash lamps are their own circuit.

Easy enough to see if something changes, by simply removing that fuse.

 

[DirtDonk]

If this turns out to be something of an issue, remove that circuit from the fuse panel entirely.
Just run an in-line fuse (2 amp I think?) and keep it separated from the ACC circuit and the rest of the fuses.
One side comes out of the headlight switch to the fuse, the other side comes out of the fuse and out to the lamps.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Here's the fuse box I bought

and here is the wiring diagram for the box as I connected it to the existing Ford wires and the new items.

 

[DirtDonk]

Interesting. Either that’s a misprint in the top box, or later model Ford trucks have changed to a different color wiring scheme.
On our older trucks, there’s no such thing as a blue with yellow stripe wire for a power feed from the battery. Maybe the horn?
But the main power feed is black with yellow.
Although that doesn’t seem like it’s an issue for yours.
It’s just a mistake to use switched power for the dash lights, of course, because every time you turn the switch on the dash lights come on.
That’s fine for hot rods and tractors, but not for a standard road going Ford.
There’s no way to control the dimming for one thing. And if you have a headlight switch, that’s capable of controlling the dash lights, why not utilize it.

No matter what you want your dashboard lamps to do, I would still pull that fuse out just to see if it creates or cures any problems.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I think the blue/yellow is a misprint.

But, I think you are telling me that F3 - Ford Dash lights need to be on the Hot side. I will pull the fuse and see what happens.

 

[Oldtimer]

The dash lights should not be on either side of the new fuse block. In the Ford fuse block the dash light fuse was an isolated circuit.
Power comes in from the dimmer circuit of headlight switch, and goes out to the dash lights.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

OK, I think I finally understand what you guys are saying about the blue/red wire. In my old fuse box, it had a 2 amp fuse on it. I didn't realize that was an independent fuse link.

I will figure out how to redo that connection. Is it the consensus that this is the source of my running lights being on?

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

On a different note, I love working with Summit and Holley. Too bad all suppliers aren't as easy to work with.

I purchased from Summit, Holley's mid-mount accessory drive system back in January of last year. As you all know, I just got the motor started for the first time within the last 2 weeks. When I completed the wiring of the battery post terminal on the alternator, I noticed the ceramic insulator was cracked. I called Holley, and they told me that regardless of the fact that I'm outside the warranty window of 90 days, it shouldn't be an issue to get an exchange. They told me to get back with Summit and request a warranty exchange and to call Holley if needed for approval. I called Summit's level 2 service department and within 5 minutes they had processed an order for a new alternator to be shipped to me today. I will return the item in that box, once received with their pre-paid shipping label. ZERO cost to me. They also have agreed to take back the Holley oil pan and dip stick that didn't fit, one year later.

If you recall, I had a similar issue with my Sanderson header fitment on the passenger side, bought from Summit. Sanderson worked with me and help resolve the issue, at no cost to me. They sent me a replacement header, at no cost to me plus a pre-paid shipping label to return the other one.

This was unlike the experience I had with Duff, where I ordered their SS exhaust system which included magnaflow mufflers. I didn't open the box within their warranty window, but when I did I saw that there was a missing muffler. When I called in and requested help, all I got from them were email rejections on my request for the missing muffler. Lots of back and forth emails, but nobody would pick up the phone to discuss it with me. Now WH4x4 gets the bulk of my business. Prior to that I had nothing but good things to say about Duff.

 

[73azbronco]

thats odd, Duff called me about a month asked how the set of springs I bought were. I said just a sec, looked outside, I said still in the box they showed up in

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

3rd Member is in. WH4x4 35 spline special!

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Question about the 3rd member. I purchased a new set of bolts and lock nuts for it. It didn‘t come with the brass washers. I’m assuming that I don’t need them. Is that a good assumption?