LS3/6L80e Engine Swap into my 73

[Oldtimer]

Electrical gremlins are the worst to find.

I think your ignition system is looking for red bowtie (

) electrons,
and is rejecting the blue oval (

) electrons and they are backfeeding the running light system.
You need to add a Flux Capacitor to filter them out.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Here's a wiring update per Paul's questions:


Did you include all three power circuits to the fuse panel?
1. Switched power- Black w/green stripe feed. YES. This is my Switched Power Feed (ACC) to the Fuse Box
2. Constant power - Black w/yellow feed. YES. This is my Constant Power Feed (Battery) to the Fuse Box
3. Dash indicator light power - Blue w/red feed. YES. The Blue/Red wires are wired to the ACC side of the fuse box

 

[DirtDonk]

Normally, the blue with red wire is literally its own circuit.
It is not attached to either the black with yellow or the black with green wires. Power comes to it from the headlight switch only, and out to the dash lamps only.
Perhaps when you turn the key, this is sending some feedback into the headlamp switch? It’s certainly why your dash illumination would come on with the key. Didn’t you say that’s what it was doing?
Not sure how that would work, but the dash lamps are their own circuit.

Easy enough to see if something changes, by simply removing that fuse.

 

[DirtDonk]

If this turns out to be something of an issue, remove that circuit from the fuse panel entirely.
Just run an in-line fuse (2 amp I think?) and keep it separated from the ACC circuit and the rest of the fuses.
One side comes out of the headlight switch to the fuse, the other side comes out of the fuse and out to the lamps.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Here's the fuse box I bought

and here is the wiring diagram for the box as I connected it to the existing Ford wires and the new items.

 

[DirtDonk]

Interesting. Either that’s a misprint in the top box, or later model Ford trucks have changed to a different color wiring scheme.
On our older trucks, there’s no such thing as a blue with yellow stripe wire for a power feed from the battery. Maybe the horn?
But the main power feed is black with yellow.
Although that doesn’t seem like it’s an issue for yours.
It’s just a mistake to use switched power for the dash lights, of course, because every time you turn the switch on the dash lights come on.
That’s fine for hot rods and tractors, but not for a standard road going Ford.
There’s no way to control the dimming for one thing. And if you have a headlight switch, that’s capable of controlling the dash lights, why not utilize it.

No matter what you want your dashboard lamps to do, I would still pull that fuse out just to see if it creates or cures any problems.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I think the blue/yellow is a misprint.

But, I think you are telling me that F3 - Ford Dash lights need to be on the Hot side. I will pull the fuse and see what happens.

 

[Oldtimer]

The dash lights should not be on either side of the new fuse block. In the Ford fuse block the dash light fuse was an isolated circuit.
Power comes in from the dimmer circuit of headlight switch, and goes out to the dash lights.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

OK, I think I finally understand what you guys are saying about the blue/red wire. In my old fuse box, it had a 2 amp fuse on it. I didn't realize that was an independent fuse link.

I will figure out how to redo that connection. Is it the consensus that this is the source of my running lights being on?

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

On a different note, I love working with Summit and Holley. Too bad all suppliers aren't as easy to work with.

I purchased from Summit, Holley's mid-mount accessory drive system back in January of last year. As you all know, I just got the motor started for the first time within the last 2 weeks. When I completed the wiring of the battery post terminal on the alternator, I noticed the ceramic insulator was cracked. I called Holley, and they told me that regardless of the fact that I'm outside the warranty window of 90 days, it shouldn't be an issue to get an exchange. They told me to get back with Summit and request a warranty exchange and to call Holley if needed for approval. I called Summit's level 2 service department and within 5 minutes they had processed an order for a new alternator to be shipped to me today. I will return the item in that box, once received with their pre-paid shipping label. ZERO cost to me. They also have agreed to take back the Holley oil pan and dip stick that didn't fit, one year later.

If you recall, I had a similar issue with my Sanderson header fitment on the passenger side, bought from Summit. Sanderson worked with me and help resolve the issue, at no cost to me. They sent me a replacement header, at no cost to me plus a pre-paid shipping label to return the other one.

This was unlike the experience I had with Duff, where I ordered their SS exhaust system which included magnaflow mufflers. I didn't open the box within their warranty window, but when I did I saw that there was a missing muffler. When I called in and requested help, all I got from them were email rejections on my request for the missing muffler. Lots of back and forth emails, but nobody would pick up the phone to discuss it with me. Now WH4x4 gets the bulk of my business. Prior to that I had nothing but good things to say about Duff.

 

[73azbronco]

thats odd, Duff called me about a month asked how the set of springs I bought were. I said just a sec, looked outside, I said still in the box they showed up in

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

3rd Member is in. WH4x4 35 spline special!

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Question about the 3rd member. I purchased a new set of bolts and lock nuts for it. It didn‘t come with the brass washers. I’m assuming that I don’t need them. Is that a good assumption?

 

[Yeller]

If installing with RTV you shouldn’t. If installing with a gasket, maybe, maybe not. Some leak, some don’t.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Shout out to Paul and the WH4x4 team. After lots of conversation, we’ve got the parts to button up my axle seal and drum brake rebuild. Parts to arrive this week, so this weekend I hopefully have axles, driveshaft, and brakes installed.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

The dash lights should not be on either side of the new fuse block. In the Ford fuse block the dash light fuse was an isolated circuit.
Power comes in from the dimmer circuit of headlight switch, and goes out to the dash lights.

So I have clearly determined that this is the problem. I pulled the fuse on that circuit in the fuse box and the issue went away. Based on how I wired everything under my dash, it's going to be a bit of a challenge to fix it. It's just time and effort.

So my question is...... If I leave it as is for now, am I creating any issues? Such as battery drain, burn out a switch, etc??

The reality is that now I have driving light on all the time when the ignition is on. If there's no issue it's creating, then I might put this on the punch list of things to do once I get the Bronco drivable on the road. Maybe wait till summer to fix it.

Thoughts?

 

[DirtDonk]

What do you mean exactly by "driving" light? The four running lights?
If they are only on with the key, then there is no drain when the key is OFF. But there is certainly extra drain with the key in the ON position. Just not enough to cause a problem unless you leave the key on.
What about the ACC position? Are they off at that point? So you can work on stuff and listen to the radio without the lights on? Not a problem if that's the case.
And be sure to check the ignition coil positive and the voltage regulator Green w/red wire to make sure that they're not energized with the key in the ACC position. Should only be hot in the ON position.
With all of your other electronic stuff, I'm guessing that this last bit would not make any difference. Since the ignition coil is handled by the computer presumably. If not, best to make sure it's not active when in ACC.

Paul

 

[Oldtimer]

and here is the wiring diagram for the box as I connected it to the existing Ford wires and the new items.

So you pulled fuse F3?
With this fuse pulled can you turn running (amber) lights on with headlight switch?
Do the dash lights come on, and with headlight switch, or with ignition switch?

With the F3 fuse installed only the dash lights should come on with ignition switch, if indeed fuse F3 feeds Ford Blue/Red wire.
For ignition switch to power running lights, there needs to be a connection to the Brown wire comming from the headlight switch

Do you have a wiring diagram (like above) showing how you routed wires from headlight switch?

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

As Is Condition:
1) Driving lights, I mean running lights come on when the ignition is on. I'm pretty sure the dash lights come on too.
2) Key in ACC mode, not sure about the dash lights but the running lights come on.
3) Key off, Headlamp in first postion and running lights come on and I'm pretty sure the dash does too.

F3 Fuse pulled:
1) ignition on, amber lights are off and so are the dash lights.
2) Ignition switch off, turn headlamps to first position and the running lights come on. The dash doesn't.

I didn't change the wiring of the ignition switch nor the headlamp switch.

And the hazzards don't work, but the blinkers do.

 

[DirtDonk]

Not sure how you got headlights and running lights mixed up and into the fuse panel. They were never there from Ford back then. Lighting duties were handled strictly by the headlight switch, other than fuses for hazards. And maybe brake lamps? The "stop/tail/turn" lamps fuse maybe, if such exists?
But headlamps, and dash lights were strictly handled by the headlight switch. Never with the key.
Maybe with feedback from the fuse for the dash lights in your case, but not sure if it works that way. And the feedback theory would not hold water once the fuse is removed anyway.

In fact, even with the fuses being used, no lights of any kind were handled with the key directly. Even turn signals, which only work with the key, still had to go through the turn signal switch (or relay?) first. No power from the ignition switch was applied to lights exclusive of their dedicated switches.

So yeah, it sounds like you have a bit more fiddling with wiring to do. Maybe not too bad though. You simply replaced the old fuse panel with the new supposedly. So any wiring present in the new one, would have been in the old one. Correct?
Or, with the new panel having so many spaces, did you add more protection for more circuits than the five originally handled by the Ford panel?

Any way to take a pic of yours, showing the wiring entering and exiting the new panel?

Paul