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More flaring tools

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,787
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Tired of dealing with the cheap flaring kits and was gonna order one of the better ones. I know the Eastwood set up has good reviews. The new summit tool catalog has like 4 different options that look similar. Anyone have experience with summit flaring tools? Mainly leaning toward summit because they usually get it to me next day.
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,185
I've got the Eastwood version, but my understanding is it's the same tool, just brand-labeled differently (Summit SUM-900-314). I'm pretty sure I got mine through Eastwood for less money on one of their sales, but it did take the better part of a week to arrive. That said, I like it a lot for flaring lines that I'm fabricating on the bench with the vice handy, as it's super quick and easy. If however you need something to work on a car and would rather not remove the line from the vehicle in order to make it happen, then something like the Mastercool might be a better choice. I have that as well, and will reach for it whenever I'm doing something on-car and/or need a funky fuel flare or something the rotary unit doesn't have the dies for.
 
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SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,787
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
The summit tool offers the 37° dies for another $90something. I usually build most lines on the bench. Seeing what some of the lines are looking like on the 66 I'm thinking of replacing all of the lines on the 72 in the near future. Also replacing the braided stainless stuff with normal rubber pressure lines.
 
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SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,787
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Just curious, but what's your reasoning behind going back to rubber?

I first noticed it in a fuel line and now had a brake line do it. When the rubber goes bad on the inside you dont know it unless you happen to squeeze the right spot and have fluid or gas come out thru the steel braid. With the plain rubber hoses any defects are right there to see.
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,185
If the braided stainless steel hoses you're using have rubber inside them, then they're not what is commonly used for brake systems.

Most brake line construction consists of a teflon tube reinforced by a stainless braid. The Teflon is inert and doesn't really degrade with time or exposure to chemicals, but it doesn't have the mechanical properties to handle the pressures associated with brake systems, hence the stainless braid. There are variants on this of course, with some hose assemblies having a PVC jacket over the stainless braid to prevent dirt from working its way through the braid and then eroding the Teflon tube over time. Other hoses, like those manufactured by Crown Performance, add a Kevlar braid and rubber isolation barrier between the Teflon tube and the stainless braid, which makes the hoses less compliant (less expansion under pressure), but also increases their diameter slightly and reduces the minimum bend radius.

Modern rubber hoses have some a long way with respect to how little compliance they have when new, but tend to degrade more quickly over time and with use and should be replaced every 5-7 years if you believe the manufacturers. That said, most will probably last well over 20 years under normal year round driving conditions, but the compliance becomes greater as the hose degrades and the corresponding brake performance can become degraded along with it.

Tobin
 

DC_Gearhead

Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Messages
570
I haven’t used the summit one but I love my Eastwood flaring tool. Game changer for sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,787
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Whatever the inner brake line is I just had one that looked fine until my buddy moved the rear caliper with pressure on it trying to bleed em. I'm going back to stock rubber type.
 

JB Fab

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
1,313
]I have the SUM-900314, and it makes it soooo easy to flare stainless.

I would also recommend some brake line pliers if you want to do any sharp bends
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-44150-...way&sprefix=brake+line+pliers\,aps,208&sr=8-7
61q-ujQ8vvL._SL1500_.jpg
 

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ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,794
Loc.
Upper SoKA
I have a set of those pliers, have never used them. I use this almost exclusively:
https://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Lever-Tube-Bender-Brake/dp/B01MZE1SN0/
I estimate that I've bent several miles of 1/4" SS tubing using one of these benders for that size tubing. I've since bought similar benders for 5/16", 3/8", & 1/2" tubing.

For the rare bends that need to be tighter than it can do I use a piece of hex brass that has been shallowly drilled and bottom-tapped. I thread in a tube nut on the flared tube and use the bar as a handle to bend the tube on the thumb of my opposite hand.
 
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SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,787
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Just picked up a nice set of old school rigid tube pliers for tight bends at the swap meet. Now just gotta order the flaring tool. I miss when summit was 24/7.
 

EricLar80

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 14, 2001
Messages
2,170
I have the eastwood bender, inverted flare, 37 flare sets. Also have the Rigid level benders. Everything works great and looks professional. Only issue with the level benders is you can't get the flare that close to the bend.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
3,794
Loc.
Upper SoKA
I have the eastwood bender, inverted flare, 37 flare sets. Also have the Rigid level benders. Everything works great and looks professional. Only issue with the level benders is you can't get the flare that close to the bend.

For 3/16" tube I use a blind coupler nut type home made tool to bring the bend in closer to the tube nut. The tool gives me a handle on the very end of the tube and I can hold it with that hand's thumb under the bend while using the other hand to pull the tube over the first thumb.

In the 3/8" size I modified the bender to clear the flare between the anchor hook and the radius die, and then insert a mandrel into the tube that extends beyond the hook.
 

Rusty_S85

New Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2019
Messages
120
I have the eastwood forming pliers but not a fan of them they crimp the hardline too easily I noticed when I used them. I do want to get the AN flaring dies for my bench mounted flare tool but I am really focusing on a tubing straightening. Eastwood doesn't offer one in 5/16" size and I cant justify spending $200 for a bench mounted unit that will only be used once.
 
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