It is nice to hear someone doing the Mustang swap. That is what I have been doing. For me it is two reasons…one…I grew up with Fox bodies…my mom had a new 1987 5.0 convertible. The year prior I read ‘how to rebuild a small block Ford’ and the simplicity and logic really clicked, and then in 1987 the EFI and E7 heads brought new life into cars after the late 70’s and early 80’s. So for me it is just familiar and looks right.
# 2 is that this Bronco is intended to be an heirloom for my (now teenage) boys after I am dead and have enjoyed using it as a grown up toy. I am thinking 30 years out. The last 5.0 exploder is now 20 years old. In 30 years it will be 50. I think it will be easier to source Mustang based parts vs exploder parts since folks collect Mustangs. I think you will always be able to find a Mustang 5.0 throttle body, MAF, computer, etc. There will always be aftermarket fuel rails that will work in a stock-type application.
I have made a LOT of mistakes…and most of them could have been addressed by reading those articles. My rig still isn’t running right…but that is due to undoing my mistakes and taking time. Anyway here is what I did right and wrong…hopefully you can save some grief!
• Throttle pedal-modify a stock EB pedal to take a Mustang cable-like in the article. Use Fox Body Mustang throttle linkage, bracket, etc. Don’t try aftermarket linkage-it may seem easy but it never worked for me. Where are you going to buy a replacement if it fails? I bought a fox body pedal and sacrificed it for the end for the Bronco pedal. The swing will need to be modified just like in the article.
• Air intake-relocate the battery to the driver’s side before you are committed. I didn’t do this…I have too much wiring now on the driver’s side to move it. Regardless of what options you choose for your intake this will give you more flexibility.
• Don’t run a dual exhaust. I LOVE duals but it just didn’t work right with the fuel lines and brake lines.
• I mounted my computer inside the cab, in the middle. This way I don’t have to run it by the heater. It will make replacing it or even replacing the entire harness much easier.
• I spent too much time, money, and effort on performance and in the end I really didn’t know what I was doing. I should have just focused on quality, reliability, and serviceability. My latest combination does just that (though admittedly not proven yet!) is a high quality rebuild (older, experienced, engine builder)-all balanced etc, with highest quality stock parts, Explorer cam,stamped rockers, etc. I am using a ported intake and ported E7 iron heads, 24 lb injectors, 93 Cobra MAF ($53 at Rockauto), and X3Z computer. If this works as it should I won’t need a custom tune.
• Oil pan- Duffs has an EB pan without a dipstick tube in it. That way you can run the stock foxbody dipstick that pushes into the block.
• Front dress-lot’s of reasons to use the explorer front dress, and it will work with this. I didn’t use it. I am using a stock EB timing cover, 5.0 Fox brackets, vendor bracket for the AC and PS, smog pump eliminator for a 5.0 Fox, Saginaw PS pump, Sanden compressor, fixed pitch fan, EB brass radiator that can be repaired. This takes stock EB hoses and stock mustang belt. It needs the reverse rotation water pump that BC sells. I do like this setup since it makes it simple to source replacement parts, and the only ‘custom’ part I have is that pump, which I would like to figure out what it is from anyway (I saw in the rabbit hole of old posts it was for a boat but I never found out anything more)….
• Balancer-if you use the front dress setup like I am you can use a stock 5.0 balancer but the timing marks will be in the wrong location. I had damper dudes put the marks in the right location on a factory new 5.0 balancer but I didn’t end up using it (plug…it is for sale!) . My builder balanced my whole assembly including my existing balancer and marked TDC on it in the right location.
Doing all this means the only ‘custom’ parts that could wear out) are:
• Reverse rotation water pump
• Smog pump eliminator pulley (common at Summit…but you could use a short belt and not do this)
And the only ‘custom’ and ‘massaged’ parts that likely will not wear out are:
• Stock 5.0 damper re-scaled with timing marks in EB location
• Modified EB throttle pedal
• Driver’s side AC and PS bracket
Expensive, obsolete, but easy to find parts
• Computer
Everything else is available at NAPA! Either spec for a 1991 Mustang or 1974 Bronco. No part numbers to remember!
