New ball joints making steering worse?

[EBGeek]

Has anyone else experienced their ability to steer actually getting worse after installing new ball joints?

My scenario - new steering u-joint, WTO rebuilt gearbox, new tie rod assembly, new trackbar, new steering stabilizer and new 7deg C-bushings (providing around 5deg of caster) with recent alignment performed and steering box confirmed centered.

I finally broke down an opted for new ball joints that should have been done when I had the front end apart for the disk brake swap. I had no steering issues then, the old ones were just definitely worn as there was significant 12 to 6 slop when tires were off the ground.

I bought (expensive) Moog ball joints as I didn't want to go through the horrible installation process ever again. Put it all back together and my ability to steer actually got worse after the new ball joints were installed. I initially had the recommended 4deg bushings, but replaced them with the 7deg trying to get more caster to hopefully help the situation.

At the end of the day, my rig will track straight like its on rails going down the road, but if you need to correct one way or the other, its just very sensitive with very little (no) resistance at all, making it a little more exciting to drive.

When I talked to the WTO folks about it, they suggested that with all the new parts, that the steering might be 'too tight' making the box over compensate with extra resistance making it 'touchy'. I backed out my sector shaft a little bit at their recommendation, and I believe that helped, but I just never thought that putting new parts on my rig would actually make it more difficult to drive.

Anyone else out there experience something similar? How long until my new ball joints get loosened up and hopefully make it drive a little better?

 

[broncodriver99]

When you installed the new ball joints did you check them with a pull scale? I can't remember the exact value called out in the manual, something like more than 12 lbs but less than 20? I will see if I can find it. They should be fairly firm but not tight and definitely not loose.

 

[broncodriver99]

Just looked in the shop manual. The only spec I can find is the resistance should be no more than 26 lbs with a spring scale. I remember seeing a spec somewhere way back when that had a minimum rating as well but can't find it. That's the only way I know to check them properly. The measurements need to be taken with the steering linkage disconnected at each knuckle.

Did you have the alignment rechecked after the ball joint replacement? Your geometry could have changed a lot if the old joints were really bad.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, X2. My steering knuckles were too tight when I torqued the upper ball joints with the 4 prong ball joint socket. I backed the off a little and freed the knuckle up. Good luck

 

[bronkenn]

x2 The torque spec for that upper sleeve is very important. I would check that out. When I did mine I got it close and when I got it back together it was very tight and hard to turn, took it apart and tightened to spec and reinstalled upper and it turned a lot easier. Ken

 

[EBGeek]

Thanks everyone for your feedback. Honestly, I never thought about the torque on the sleeve being too tight. Looks like I'll be checking that next.

 

[73azbronco]

Toe in set right?

 

[EBGeek]

yep, had it set with the alignment. They set it to stock, but I added a little extra toe in after the fact, but neither seemed to have much effect.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Also, with more caster, steering will be more difficult.

 

[broncodriver99]

with recent alignment performed

Was this before or after the ball joint replacement?

 

[bax]

You should check the toe in / out. I bet you are out.

 

[Crawdad]

Subscribed

 

[bronkenn]

Thanks everyone for your feedback. Honestly, I never thought about the torque on the

Actually mine wasn't torqued enough. When it's not tight enough it puts more torque on the upper ball joint to knuckle and makes steering harder.

 

[EBGeek]

Was this before or after the ball joint replacement?

The alignment was done after the ball joint swap, as it was nearly undrivable afterwards. It got better, even more so after I put the higher caster C-bushings, but still not as good as it was with the old ball joints.

Actually mine wasn't torqued enough.

Wasn't expecting that. Looks like there are two things for me to check. One is to disconnect the tie rod and do a pull test on the knuckles and make sure its less than 20lbs. Second is to check the torque on the ball joint sleeve to ensure its set correctly.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I could be wrong but I think when you adjust the sleeve in the steering knuckle you are putting a preload on the upper ball joint. You know the stem in the axle is stationary. The ball in the socket on the steering knuckle is the moving part. I believe on mine the first try was too tight and gave me stiff steering, more on one side, but both sides were too stiff. I took off the ball joint nut and loosened the sleeve a little to free them up. I found a happy place with no slop and free moving steering knuckles. Good luck