Newbie -> Just Got My -NEW TO ME- Bronco Need help, advice, parts

[mytmouse75]

OK, Update :
So I had ordered a second Brake switch, that I intended to "play with" - by installing a weaker spring to get the brake lights to come on when they should. But it turns out the second "Standard" brand brake switch (same as first one I ordered) out of the box worked a LOT easier. I could depress the spring with my fingers with A LOT less effort than the original "Ford" switch that was in the truck, and first brake switch I ordered, that I could barley move at all.
So that - helped - with the brake light situation, BUT the VERY easy / touchy - very little effort needed to apply the brakes was STILL a SITUATION/PROBLEM that I was not happy/comfortable with.
So after lots of calling around and searching other forums, it led me to the only thing left - "THE BRAKE BOOSTER" being bad... I know what you think and that was my thought too, - when a booster would "Go Bad" you think you get a HARD - NO power assist brake pedal feel. BUT it turns out the Vacuum booster has some sort of internals that (the way I think of it as) a valve that doesn't seal properly allowing for TOO MUCH assist, giving me that that VERY Easy/touchy brake pedal feel...
So I had changed out the booster and NOW the brakes feel the way they should - strong solid feel during the full motion of pressing/applying the brakes - and SAFE ! And the Brake lights work perfectly now!
;D

https://goo.gl/photos/qxVn78RGpJ7Ljfw26

As far as the extra vacuum canister, I found out that usually an extra canister is installed for other vacuum accessories, and as for the brakes if you have a HEAVY cam, which results in low engine vacuum - the canister makes up for the lack of vacuum to be constantly available for braking. In my case I doubt it's needed, but as mentioned earlier - "more is better" (in this case) it can only help/be safer - so I've decided to leave it in....

-TC

 

[mytmouse75]

Now I have another Question - WIPERS [ Dual electric Wiper motors ] operation/ wiring ?
So from research, it seems on the "stock" wiper set up, they are run by individual motors (one for each blade), fed from a switch with dual feeds (for Low/High) to each motor, but share the same "park/stop" feed. Mine are powered/fed from a GM blinker wiper switch, to one motor, then to the other motor - (I believe). So when they are turned off, they will not turn off/ "self Park" - (in the stop position) until they both sync up with each other, which could be random times ranging from a few seconds to many minutes.
Turns out on the Ford wiper switch, the motors are "supposed" to be fed by individual High/Low feeds , ( but share the same "self Park" wire feeds [puzzling] ??) .
So looking at the wiper switch/ wiring schematic (I found on line) - do you think there's a way to "fool" the wiper motors using the single feed GM blinker wiper switch, as opposed to the Ford "stock" dual feed wiper switch?
I don't see why I can't just splice the feeds coming from the single feed switch, to feed each motor - not "daisy chain" the wiring off from one motor/terminals to the other motor. Perhaps place a diode, (I believe) on the Low feed to the second wiper motor, and have it work the way it should...?
In my mind, the second motor is keeping the first going, by not being in the "park/stop position" at the same time, allowing power to continue (keeping the circuit powered), until they BOTH end up in the "park/stop position" AT THE SAME TIME - which would break/open the circuit, making the wipers turn off.... The Diode would stop power back to the first motor once the second motor reaches it's "park/stop position", then allowing the first motor to shut off once it reaches it's "park/stop position" on it's next swing, resulting in the wipers shutting off within seconds of each other every time.

See link of pictures first is of the Bronco wiper motors & switch , the second picture is from research I found this helpful diagram of the inner workings of the park circuit, posted by Jim Mais

https://goo.gl/photos/p5TLTTTWcSWzRDGS8


-TC
%)

 

[DirtDonk]

Great to hear about the change from the new booster!
And yeah, I'd say that's a first around here at least that I can remember. Usually it's the opposite issue.
Didn't help you then, but at least the next guy will have your experiences documented here too.

The valve in question is what the brake pedal pushes against in part. Obviously it pushes the center of the main diaphragm, but same action opens the air bleed valve too.
The booster can't boost while vacuum in the front chamber is equal to the resistance from the sealed rear chamber. When the little valve opens it unseals the rear chamber and reduces it's ability to hold the diaphragm against the vacuum. At that point, the vacuum can "pull" the diaphragm forward in an assist to your leg.

At least that's my understanding of the workings. Never had one apart myself, but have read about them.

So from research, it seems on the "stock" wiper set up, they are run by individual motors (one for each blade), fed from a switch with dual feeds (for Low/High) to each motor, but share the same "park/stop" feed.

Nope. Stock early wipers (66 to early-69) were vacuum operated individually.
Later electric wipers were a typical US auto manufacturing type, with a single large motor rotating an arm to pull a linkage back and forth attached to both wiper pivots.
A single set of 4 or 5 wires were run to the motor. The ground was through the bracket to the windshield frame.

Mine are powered/fed from a GM blinker wiper switch, to one motor, then to the other motor - (I believe). So when they are turned off, they will not turn off/ "self Park" - (in the stop position) until they both sync up with each other, which could be random times ranging from a few seconds to many minutes.

Well ain't that fun to deal with!
Seen that too, but never worked on one like that.

Turns out on the Ford wiper switch, the motors are "supposed" to be fed by individual High/Low feeds , ( but share the same "self Park" wire feeds [puzzling] ??).

Only puzzling about dealing with multiple motors. With knowing about the single motor and single feeds, it should start to make sense.

So looking at the wiper switch/ wiring schematic (I found on line) - do you think there's a way to "fool" the wiper motors using the single feed GM blinker wiper switch, as opposed to the Ford "stock" dual feed wiper switch?

I'd have to see the GM pinout, but even then not sure I could figure it out all on my own. Maybe Viper, Steve or one of the others could divine the truth.;D

I don't see why I can't just splice the feeds coming from the single feed switch, to feed each motor - not "daisy chain" the wiring off from one motor/terminals to the other motor. Perhaps place a diode, (I believe) on the Low feed to the second wiper motor, and have it work the way it should...?

Over my pay grade. But seems logical at first glance.
There is also a more reasonably priced synchronized switch from Cole-Hersee that some here are using. Our Carling-style rocker (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/s?keyword=wiper+switch) works very well, but at $200 buckaroos it's not exactly in the same league as a stock switch at under $40. An auto synchronizing switch in the middle range somewhere might not be as inexpensive as making your setup work with silicon voodoo and magical pixie dust, but it would save a bit of time I'm thinking.

Good luck. Interested to hear what others say about your idears.

Paul

 

[mytmouse75]

Now seat belt replacement question

Hey all, long time... Hope all is well with everyone ...

Good news, the wiper problem turned out to just be poor connection(s). I re-did all the wiring, soldering all the connections making sure to have good solid connections.

Now another problem I have discovered - my seat belt, I noticed had started fraying (see pictures).
I had purchased a replacement set of shoulder seat belts from Tom's Bronco Parts, not realizing the original belts (besides being grey) have an 8" drop down.
I DO NOT want to drill another hole in my roll bar. I looked online for a pre-made drop down but could only find ones too long (I think 12"), plus no bolt covers.
I was told, and thought, I could just take out the stitching from the Tom's Bronco Parts seat belts feed them through the existing 8" drop downs and have them re sown, either myself or find somewhere to have them professionally sown... I just don't know who/where. I have heavy duty thread (almost like string) I've used on leathers and weight bearing strapping...
What's your thoughts?%)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aY0pXNXhpmBGs7vF3

 

[bronkenn]

There was a thread on here about a month ago where a fellow used some clamps to bolt seat belt to the roll bar. It was pretty slick. Ken

 

[mytmouse75]

Sorry I almost forgot to update you all.

I had found a guy/local interior shop that my brother in law knew. He was able to take out the stitching from the Tom's Bronco Parts seat belts feed them through the existing 8" drop downs and re sew them like they were.

See pictures:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CGKNKRqnnDi9KuiB8

 

[DirtDonk]

Nice! Glad that worked out. And thanks for the follow-up with pics.

Paul

 

[mytmouse75]

Bronco Shelter / Storage

Hi all - hope everyone's been well. Haven't posted in awhile , been enjoying cruising around in Old Blue with the family & all.....

Got a question, or more like what's your thoughts on, Bronco Shelter / Storage?

My Bronco doesn't fit in my Garage - I've been keeping her in a Pepboys Shelter Logic tent, under the AWESOME WILDHORSES ALLWEATHER COVER in my side yard, with a box fan on for blowing/moving air around (I also have those silly insect/rodent repellers plugged in, whether they really work or not. I've had no pest problems, so maybe they're doing their job). I also have indoor/outdoor carpet with mats on top for the flooring.
The problem is this, tent is just the cheap version, and I've already had to cover the top with an additional tarp, due to it wearing out getting/ holes, and in the winter I have to constantly worry about snow build up, and have to broom off the snow...
I've been looking at the Shelter Logic SP Series rounded top Garage (made in USA , snow and wind rated...) with the roll up door, w/ front & rear vent kit. The 15yr warranty only comes white or green. The 10yr warranty is available in Tan (which I & the wifey ) would like to match the house (lesser eye sore). Then I was going to place inter-locking bricks I have from a patio we had (that was replaced by a deck) for the flooring of the Tent/garage....
This is my idea/solution, other than a more permanent structure, that would cause my taxes to go up...


https://photos.app.goo.gl/rQA9cvwfREBnCT7W7
See pictures.....

Your thoughts ? What to you have?

 

[DirtDonk]

Those look pretty stout. Can you get one that's not much taller than what you already have? Seems like your current one is pretty stealthy behind your fence, so it would be cool to keep roughly the same volume inside unless the one you have is just too small for comfort.

And with no floor, when you use the patio pavers as your floor, I assume you would use a water barrier underneath the pavers? Not just weed cloth, which would be better at draining of course, but a real vapor barrier to keep the ground from rising up to meet the Bronco!

Or is the drainage a higher priority with that type of structure? Maybe you can tilt the ground towards the end so that any water that does get in naturally works it's way out.

Not sure, but I like the overall idea. And yes to not creating a higher tax burden from a structure. Does that include non-attached structures too, like nice Tough-Shed type buildings?

Paul

 

[mytmouse75]

Those look pretty stout. Can you get one that's not much taller than what you already have? Seems like your current one is pretty stealthy behind your fence, so it would be cool to keep roughly the same volume inside unless the one you have is just too small for comfort.
Paul

Yes, the one I would choose is just as big, but a bit taller /larger door opening which I need (12'×25' - 12' door opening) giving me plenty of extra room for storage ("More stuff" George Carlin) lol...

And with no floor, when you use the patio pavers as your floor, I assume you would use a water barrier underneath the pavers? Not just weed cloth, which would be better at draining of course, but a real vapor barrier to keep the ground from rising up to meet the Bronco!
Paul

I'm a bit confused, you mean to use something like a heavy plastic liner under the sand/pavers to prevent ground moisture rising up, vs weed cloth? That's a great idea I forgot to think about... The reason for RCA, the weed cloth, sand, then the paver is for rain/snow melt drainage, where as the floor in the tent would NOT be exposed to the elements. MOISTURE is one of my Biggest Concerns...

Or is the drainage a higher priority with that type of structure? Maybe you can tilt the ground towards the end so that any water that does get in naturally works it's way out.
Paul

The ground slope is already at a slight angle forward/away from the tent. I hope to have the flooring a bit higher than the sounding ground (raised).

Not sure, but I like the overall idea. And yes to not creating a higher tax burden from a structure. Does that include non-attached structures too, like nice Tough-Shed type buildings?
Paul

I looked into to those type of structures also, and (around here by me anyways) they require a poured cement pad to be installed on (causing to be taxed), and are quite a bit more expensive....

Hey I always wondered, do you work for /are you part of the Wildhorses staff?

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes. Was thinking heavy plastic to eliminate moisture inside from ground evaporation.
The other methods allow drainage of course, but also create an entrance for even more. In my area that's still a problem and I'm just one step up from a desert!

There may even be a media, or system that's sole purpose in life is to lay down as a base for pavers, blocking moisture from below while promoting drainage from above.

Might be worth looking into anyway. One way or another, getting it out quicker than it gets in would be a big boon.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Hey I always wondered, do you work for /are you part of the Wildhorses staff?

Yep, PaulB, that's me!
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/

Paul

 

[mytmouse75]

Looking for flag mounting idea's and BRONCO flag...

I'm Looking for flag mounting idea's and a BRONCO flag...

I fly a 3'x5' American flag off the rear tire carrier for special events, but I'm looking to add a Bronco flag along with the American flag.
Surprisingly enough when I searched for Bronco flags I could only find the one shown in the Amazon link below.

Ford Bronco Flag More information: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B087LXT6CH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_I53eFbQFD8588

I had the American flag mounted in a PVC tube, held in with through pins, strapped to the rear tire carrier and use the wooden pole that came with the flag (house porch flag) . Needless to say the wood pole snapped after a while.
See pictures
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UQA4gUpiQxziTESk7

Y'all have any idea's/what do you do to mount/fly large flags - and - where to get Bronco flags ?


.

 

[mytmouse75]

Out the the OLD in with the NEW.... ;D

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z3DhcsqqpHoizkhZ8

.

 

[DirtDonk]

Wow! You've been busy!
Looks like home-sweet-home to me.;D

Paul

 

[mytmouse75]

Wow! You've been busy!
Looks like home-sweet-home to me.;D

Paul

Thanx Paul

 

[MitchE]

Sorry about Dusting this thread off..more like a rope.
I just had to reach out after reading it.
Wish i read it in 2019 instead of living it.
Same purchase issues buying online
Same year, color, prerunner bumper
Same steering issues
Same learning curve
Same respect for paulB helping me with my diff and axel.
Appreciate you guys sharing the journey lots and lots of good info
Was wondering if you ever upgraded your steering / handling and what you did?