you just about had it right, really not that hard after you do one. let us know if you have any more questions
I just did the rear brakes (as mentioned earlier). As you said, like the rest of this truck with my findings - I wouldn't mind doing it "Your Preferred" way and looking at those bearings as well. Now's the time while I have it all apart. Just more to add to the list right?
Yep, "just one more thing" is a mantra around here.
The good news is that you don't have to disassemble any of the brake stuff you just did. As you mentioned, you simply remove the four bolts from the backing plate/axle retainer and slide the axle out independent of the brake assembly.
In the stock axle shafts, the wheel flange has a large single hole in it for aligning with each bolt in turn so you can get a socket on it. With aftermarket axles, you sometimes have to use a wrench because they don't put in an access hole.
...(I did notice a good amount of orange rtv when I was doing the brakes on the axle shafts)
The RTV could be a good sign or a bad one. On the one hand, since they've been out apparently, they could be very easy to remove again. On the other hand, the silicone could act like glue and give you some grief before you triumph over adversity.;D
Then unbloting the carrier from the housing. yes and there maybe copper washers under the nuts, so will need to remove as well, then just put the whole third member out
What he said. But be READY! It's a heavy sucker and likes to kind of stick right before that last pop and voila! In your lap baby!
Actually, the "in your lap" part is not a bad thing. I've used floor jacks and other implements of destruction, but the old "moving blanket on crossed legs" routine has worked for me the best.
Replace carrier with New rtv(or is there a gasket available)? it is actually called a third member. they do sell gaskets but some just use a gasket sealant on them, be sure to clean the surfaces
Also referred to as the "center section", the "chunk" or "hogshead" especially by us older blokes. The differential "carrier" is the internal part that the ring gear bolts to and has all the side gears, spider gears and clutches (for limited-slips) inside. It's the actual differential in the differential.
Standard paper/fiber gaskets, steel gaskets, even an o-ring type gasket are available now.
Repack the bearings (or should I plan ahead and get new bearings?), and what bearing grease seals I reckon? no the bearings are roller bearings and can't grease them. they get their lubrication from the center section oil. check the bearings to see if they are loose/don't roll smooth. if not get new bearings (press of old and press on new) along with a new seal, clean bearing mating surface on the housing before installation
What he said. Well, "sort of" anyway.;D
From the factory, all Early Broncos came with sealed ball bearings. Either the "small bearing" or "large bearing" size. Those are the only two choices you had from the factory. Permanently greased and precisely why they have that finite life expectancy of about 100k miles.
Non-greasable, and not lubed by the gear oil. A seal in the housing
INSIDE of the bearing keeps the lube at bay.
You'll have to determine what yours has, but for most years up to '75 if you had the 10" brakes you had the small bearing, and if you had the 11" brakes you had the big bearing. that and the brake size is the only
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/bronco_rear_axle
For the full-size trucks (and converted EB's), they used the the heavier load rated tapered roller bearings lubed by the gear oil like Skiddy was saying. In their case the seal is part of the outer bearing retainer and not replaceable by itself. If it leaks, you replace the whole bearing as an assembly.
This is also along the lines of maintenance. Ford figured that (in a perfect world of course) by the time the seal started to leak, it was also time to replace the bearings. They're heavier duty than the ball bearing type, but still not expected to last forever in their original applications of heavy pickup trucks expected to carry big loads. Not as recreational vehicles that we've turned them into.
Many of us make special axles designed to fit into the EB housing but use the full size tapered roller bearing design. Known by their part number as "Set 20" bearings, it's a common upgrade. All of our Extreme shafts have this tapered Set-20 bearing installed.
You can't put Set-20's on a stock EB shaft, and you can't put a stock EB ball bearing on a shaft designed for a Set-20. Correct outer diameter to fit the housing, but wrong inner diameter to fit the shaft.
The outer end of the axle housing is the same for a standard sealed bearing OR a tapered Set-20. The narrower sealed bearing sits flush with the housing end when it's installed all the way. The wider Set-20 bearings will stick out proud of the housing end and have a slightly different retainer for that reason.
Either way you don't grease the bearings normally.
As for using sealant, while it's not required in a new housing, there are often small imperfections and minor damage from PO's removing and replacing old seals and bearings. So it's actually a reasonable practice to add some sealant to the perimeter of the stock type (inner) seals, and to the outer diameter of the Set-20 seals.
Then just slide the axle shafts back in (do I have to line up, hear a click or pop into place?), and seal with rtv. just slide in until flush with the housing and tighten, just a little bit of gasket sealer on the seal if you want, they really don't require it
On some differential carriers (Detroit Lockers and Ford Tracklocks for instance) there is at least one side that has a double-collar splined side gear setup. You sometimes have to twist the axle back and forth while pushing in to line up both sets of splines. Just like installing a torque-converter on a transmission. Only harder...
Sometimes they fight you going back in for that reason. If by yourself, put the side that installed easily with the tire back on the ground so you can wiggle and jiggle the recalcitrant side back and forth to line up the splines.
What rear is this when I search for parts (seals, bearing, etc)?
And/Or does anyone already have part numbers for me and/or a link on how to? search for ford 9" rear end
As said. It's a "Ford 9-inch" which almost everyone used to selling parts has heard of. Or just ask for the correct part for your year Ford Bronco. And when they ask you "is that a full size Bronco?" you usually tell them YES. The computers don't know from full-size, but the alternative was the Bronco II. And nothing fits between the two.
It was used for a long time and is literally the go-to diff for many hot-rods and truck builds. Until you need more beef, such as a Dana 60 or higher, or a Ford Sterling 10.25" or whatever. The "9-inch" refers to the diameter of the ring gear. Just like a Ford 8.8" diff has a ring gear that's 8.8 inches in diameter.
All Early Broncos had 9" rear diffs from the factory. All Early Broncos had a Dana 30 front end from '66 to about mid-'71. After that they used variations on a Dana 44 up to the end.
Your 9" has either a Large Bearing or a Small Bearing outer end. Check out that link I posted above and see if that helps. Sorry the pics are not high-res. With the resources we have at hand, we really need to get some better ones.
I think that about covers it. For now...
Paul
