Newbie looking at purchase

[Torkman66]

New to early broncos but lots of experience with early mustangs. I understand rust issues. Have replaced several floors and quarter panels in mustangs. But nothing with an early Bronco. These prices are crazy!!!! I have a guy who has a 66 with no engine or tranny or interior. Just the body and rolling on original axels. All glass and top are there. The floors are all rusted out. Frame is surface rust only. Body is original and straight. He wants 12k.
Thoughts?

 

[trailerjack]

if it has a title, that's probably close to market value. If you show up with a trailer and cash you may be able to get it a little cheaper.

 

[gnsteam]

if it has a title, that's probably close to market value. If you show up with a trailer and cash you may be able to get it a little cheaper.

I agree. I looked at one in similar condition as you mentioned and they were asking 10.5k. Prices are nut for sure. Considering I paid $10.5k for a running daily driver just 11 years ago.

 

[Torkman66]

It has a title. Guessing biggest issue is to check the frame for rust. Mustangs are unibodies done a bit different. Are there any areas where I should really look hard at regarding rust? I can do floors no problem. But what about other areas that can be bad and cause large or expensive repairs?

 

[okie4570]

Broncos and rust are a set of dominoes 99% of the time. Not always the case in the south, almost always the case in the north. Prices are crazy in that respect for a gutted rusted project. Imo you're better off finding a crawler or a beat up off road rig for the same price, and go from there. At least you'll have a drive train, etc. Usable parts that you don't need you can sell at least. Sounds like you're getting ready to spend $12k will end up throwing half of it away.

 

[904Bronco]

Along with a title, you need to ensure the Vin on the frame matches the title and tag on the glove box.
Engine, Trans, T-case can be found. Usually the rebuild process (machining and parts) adds up.
Sounds like you have some sheet metal work skills... Having a body shop do the work adds up.
Carefully check the frame over, top and bottom. Check for thining of the metal, The holes for the body mounts can grow in size but are repairable. Over 50 yrs people could have drilled/welded any number of things to the frame, sometimes poorly.
Rust, well everywhere on a Bronco body. Hardtop, tailgate, floors as you have seen, kick panels, bottom of the doors, rocker panels, Engine cowl in the support brace and where it meets the windshield support.
As you know with Mustangs, the little odds and ends really add up in price... Inside and out.
And with body work, the price of materials continues to go up... Rust treatment, primer, paint itself...

But there is no better satisfaction than bringing something back to life, and being able to say I did that! Good luck.

 

[1strodeo]

the most common frame rust is in the rear I believe, Bronco frames are not notorious for rust like the Toyotas, however it seems people liked to use them as plow trucks back in the day, so the northern Broncos tend to get eaten alive. Where are you located? Check the door posts and rockers for rust, as mentioned if you see rust there is almost always more you can't see. make sure the VIN on the title matches the VIN on the frame, passenger side engine bay 1-2 feet in front of firewall

 

[Torkman66]

Ok. Going to check it out. I’ll let you know what I find.

 

[hsach]

Ok. Going to check it out. I’ll let you know what I find.

Take lots of pics if you can. Post them up and people can hopefully point out any potential issues.

 

[Torkman66]

Went and looked at Bronco. Lots of rust for sure. The floors are GONE! the wheel wells in the back have several holes. The engine bay looked good and so did the cowl area. However, I looked for 20 minutes to undcover vin on the frame (passenger side just behind shock mount and under passenger seat) and could not find anything even after taking a wire brush and wet rag to it. Between the extensive rust and the lack of frame vin I passed at 12k. I will look for a bronco that is a bit cleaner and has a clear vin on the frame. Thoughts? And by the way, if anyone knows of a candidate I am looking for a good resto project.

 

[trailerjack]

Went and looked at Bronco. Lots of rust for sure. The floors are GONE! the wheel wells in the back have several holes. The engine bay looked good and so did the cowl area. However, I looked for 20 minutes to undcover vin on the frame (passenger side just behind shock mount and under passenger seat) and could not find anything even after taking a wire brush and wet rag to it. Between the extensive rust and the lack of frame vin I passed at 12k. I will look for a bronco that is a bit cleaner and has a clear vin on the frame. Thoughts? And by the way, if anyone knows of a candidate I am looking for a good resto project.

sounds like passing was the right move. Rust is about the worst thing to deal with and now with shipping costs and shortages - its almost cheaper to buy a new tub. Let us know what state you are in so those of us around you can keep an eye out.

 

[Torkman66]

Thanks trailjack. Im in Texas half the year and Idaho the other half. Retired but love the car hobby. Not afraid of taking on some rust, but would prefer a Bronco withpout rust on vertical surfaces. Thanks!

 

[1strodeo]

Here is where the VINs are located, it does usually take some elbow grease but with WD 40 and a wire brush you will find the VIN in the engine bay. It's usually well preserved by the coating of oil and road grime. It may be very faint and may even be missing a digit, but it's there. There is usually a star stamped at each end of the VIN as well. Oh and if you can see the VIN location under the seat, and the body is on, may want to move on anyway. But honestly for 12k asking price it aint gonna be rust free for sure.

You'll also notice in the pic what 904Bronco was saying about the body mount holes being enlarged, but of course that's almost impossible to see with the body on, and like he said not a huge deal to fix them.

 

[Torkman66]

Thanks so much! Sweet pic of your restoration!! I want to do the same thing.

 

[Scoop]

One other thought on frame rust. Agree the rear is the most prone to rust. Look for rust at the rear gas tank strap attachment locations and around the rear shock mounts. Also look for crack on the frame around the steering box. Not a deal killer because most Bronco vendors sell a reinforcement kit that welds on.

Don't get discouraged, the more Broncos you look at the better you'll know what to look for!

 

[1strodeo]

Thanks so much! Sweet pic of your restoration!! I want to do the same thing.

Thanks, and once I got everything just right....I yanked it out and put in a 351 lol

..but still hasn't been on the road in 5 years

 

[Torkman66]

Great advice folks. Trying to locate a good candidate for resto. Looking across the nation. I plan on a new motor and tranny anyway so would like to find a rolling shell. I can rebuild the axels, TC, and all the suspension in my shop. metal repair (within reason) is not an issue. I'm a good welder and fabricator. Interior, wiring, all stuff I have done on Mustangs for many years. Body work (which I hate) I have done a lot of and my neighbor has a paint booth. So, if anyone comes across something that might be restorable at a reasonable price, let me know.

 

[PilotTerry]

In the same boat, learning about the big rust issues to be aware of while looking, I want a rolling project hopefully already with motor and drive train. I'm in Simi Valley, CA and spend time near the Sierras. What do you guys or gals think of this frame? Considering pulling the tub, and bead blasting/prime/paint the frame.

https://imgur.com/OmrrcZ2

https://imgur.com/N42HQ1P

https://imgur.com/Vx8D3ap

https://imgur.com/bE8wcWt

 

[1strodeo]

In the same boat, learning about the big rust issues to be aware of while looking, I want a rolling project hopefully already with motor and drive train. I'm in Simi Valley, CA and spend time near the Sierras. What do you guys or gals think of this frame? Considering pulling the tub, and bead blasting/prime/paint the frame.

https://imgur.com/OmrrcZ2

https://imgur.com/N42HQ1P

https://imgur.com/Vx8D3ap

https://imgur.com/bE8wcWt

I don't see any holes or obvious soft spots, so I'd say the frame looks pretty solid! I would also try as best you can to clean out the inside of the two long frame channels, Ive seen some guys on here that have come up with some pretty interesting contraptions to clean out those channels

 

[sprdv1]

Great advice folks. Trying to locate a good candidate for resto. Looking across the nation. I plan on a new motor and tranny anyway so would like to find a rolling shell. I can rebuild the axels, TC, and all the suspension in my shop. metal repair (within reason) is not an issue. I'm a good welder and fabricator. Interior, wiring, all stuff I have done on Mustangs for many years. Body work (which I hate) I have done a lot of and my neighbor has a paint booth. So, if anyone comes across something that might be restorable at a reasonable price, let me know.

the big key is just to be patient.. Hard to do. Waited a year before I finally found a smoking deal on a 2016 street glide