not getting full turning radius

[Sniper]

i finally got a chance to do some work on my little brothers '71 automatic. among one of the more major issues is that the truck steers fully to the right but only comes about 1/4 of the travel distance of a normal EB to the left. i was removing the old steering stabilizer tonight when i looked at the box and noticed a bolt looked odd. i touched it and it fell out... upon further inspection i found that 3 of the 4 bolts had been sheared clear off and only one stainless steel bolt which was not original was holding it on. and i am getting alot of play in the steering due to that, tomorrow i'm getting some grade 8 bolts for it, i got some tonight but they were the wrong size.

the box also leaks pretty profusely from around where the lash adjustment screw on the top is located. i do have my box from my '69 arriving at west texas offroad tomorrow for a full rebuild and quick turn conversion, but i would like to avoid having to send another box right away if possible, but if it needs to be done, so be it.

my main confusion is what could be causing the lack of travel to the left, while i still have full travel to the right there is alot of hard resistance going to the left when it stops and it squeals sometimes. i plan on talking with west texas offroad about this tomorrow aswell.

 

[ransil]

pitman arm indexed wrong
knuckle stops adjusted wrong

 

[PaveBronco]

This can happen with a lift (assuming lift because you have this issue), everything shifts when the suspension is raised. Center the wheels, separate the drag link at the pitman arm, center the steering box and see how far you are off. Adjustable drag link will fix, or as its your little brothers just grind away the pitman arm keyways and throw it back on.

 

[muskrat]

have someone turn the wheel left and right while you are looking at all "goings on" in the front end. had the same issue after my lift install. Turns out I installed the steering stabilizer incorrectly, too far left or too far right. I forget which, but it prevented the tires from turning all the way to one side. If it is the pitman arm indexing, I took mine to a machine shop and had them file in the keys in.

Try the steering stabilizer first, but having someone turn the wheel while you look should expose the issue pretty quick.

 

[Broncobowsher]

3 of 4 bolts? Stock steering box only has 3. You have an adapted steering box. Any chances of posting pictures? We can usually pick the steering box out in a picture so you know what you have.

When I did the last power steering conversion I had to shorten the draglink to match the arc of travel of the steering box to the axle. It was not a factory box.

 

[welndmn]

pitman arm indexed wrong
knuckle stops adjusted wrong

<echo>
Then I'll add in a lift and no trac bar correction.

Post up some pics.

 

[Sniper]

yes it is lifted, i haven't measured but it's about a 7 inch lift. 2 inch body lift with a 5 or 6 inch suspension lift would be my guess.


















my next issue, the electronic locker, which the gearbox is broken off but the PO gave me a new one and said it's a chevy part #

 

[Sniper]

pictures are posted

 

[Broncobowsher]

Sorry, but that thing is a MESS!
That adjustable track bar looks like it is adjusted to the last thread. I would be really worried about that pulling apart. That's not the only problem, the cotter key for the track bar is missing as well. So the track bar could fall apart or just fall off. And the angle is horrible as well, if the springs flex at all you will have bumps steer.

That adjustable track bar is cranked way over. To center the axle due to improper brackets for the lift. This robs steering travel to one side as well.

That is a Delphi steering box. But the drop pitman arm is a rarity on those. I remember there is a way of using an Xterra Delphi box and putting a Jeep sector shaft in it to get normal splines that you can get a dropped pitman arm for. Or maybe it is just a Jeep steering box. Or it is one of the aftermarket steering boxes sold by the venders? Need to look at the splines on the input shaft to get a better idea. I would be surprised if they actually put proper reinforcments in the frame to hold the upper 2 bolts in place.

That front diff cover looks like an aftermarket locker was added, then the control for it got smashed. I want to say OX, but not as they have a better cover and a cable shift instead of what looks like a smashed electric shift. I can't think of any locker at the moment that had an electric shift grafted onto the factory dana cover.

The Bronco has had a colorful and abused past. Scary how much of it is a rolling death trap right now.

 

[Sniper]

the electronic locker is aftermarket and was welded onto the dana cover. i have a new motor for it that the PO provided and said was a chevy part, however the wiring was not hooked up so i haven't put it all together yet as i don't know how the wiring goes. my other concern with that is being that i don't know the gearing on it, but running 35's i really would like to be geared at 4.11 as this is a mainly street DD with some light offroad use mainly for hunting and dirt/gravel roads etc. apparently the rear is geared at 5.88 and the truck maxes out at about 65 mph.

i don't understand steering, i haven't delved into that at all yet and i have no idea how to fix this.

 

[m_m70]

when i looked at the box and noticed a bolt looked odd. i touched it and it fell out... upon further inspection i found that 3 of the 4 bolts had been sheared clear off and only one stainless steel bolt which was not original was holding it on. and i am getting alot of play in the steering due to that, tomorrow i'm getting some grade 8 bolts for it, i got some tonight but they were the wrong size.

If I am seeing this right it looks like you will need some frame work/repair and reinforcement for that box........

 

[Sniper]

incase anyone was wondering i am NOT driving this truck in it's current condition

 

[welndmn]

To start, you're going to need a drop trac bar bracket or trac bar riser like wildhorses sells.
From there I'd get out the tape measure and center the axle and adjust the trac bar

 

[Wyflyer]

I had the exact same problem a couple years ago. Fixed it by a non-keyed drop pitman arm, adjustable trac bar, and centering the axle.

Here's the thread.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191658&highlight=wyflyer

 

[Sniper]

i have never centered the axle nor do i know what i am looking at with centering it

 

[Broncobowsher]

i have never centered the axle nor do i know what i am looking at with centering it

That track bar (the one with a lot of exposed threads at the frame pivot) is an adjustable one. And from the looks of it adjusted to the point the threads may fail from being over extended. Anyway that adjustment shifts the axle side to side under the chassis. Typically when you lift a Bronco poorly (like yours has been done) the track bar pivots and pulls the axle toward the driver's side as the lift goes up. That adjustment allows you to lengthen or shorten the track bar to get the axle centered under the truck again.

What should be done to fix it is fix the angle of the track bar so it isn't so steep. In the past the common fix is a drop bracket on the frame, but those stress the frame and are well known for causing frame cracks. Welding a riser bracket on the axle housing is the new way of doing it. Has a lot of benefits. One is you don't take out the tie rod when you flip it over the knuckles to get it out of harms way and get the angles better.

As for centering it, equal spacing of the tires side to side in the truck. Housing not shifted to one side.

 

[Sniper]

well i'm royally fucked at this point, i got a tap to try and put some new grade 8 bolts through it so it would be close to safe enough to get a few blocks over to a local offroad shop. and the fucking tap snapped off in it.

i'm trying to remove the gearbox and just get this fucker off the truck at this point but i can't get the hydraulic line nuts to come off.

 

[Sniper]

finally got the gearbox out, can anyone ID this? with better view. also pictured it damage done to frame. do i need to reinforce the frame or repair it? or is it alright if i put on a normal 3 bolt gearbox?










my brand new tap... :/

 

[Broncobowsher]

I want to say '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee. That is off memory, double check. The Nissan version of that box isn't a smooth input shaft, it is splined. The epoxy job on top was someone trying to plug a leak The Nissan box also fits better on the upper front bolt hole. You can see where the box was loose and beating on the frame rail. Looks like the lower 2 bolt holes still have the factory reinforcement in place. The upper front was drilled at an angle and really is useless as poorly as it was put in. The upper rear you should check the frame and see if there is any reinforcement inside.

 

[01Dudley]

http://www.dufftuff.com/Power_Steering_Heavy_Duty_Bracket_1966_77_Bronco_p/3230.htm

This actually comes w/5 holes to work w/ more steering boxes. Drill the threads out of the steering box mounts and just use a nut and bolt all the way thru the frame and box.