Oil pressure sender install

[ND BRNCO]

I’ve seen this question many times in prior threads but haven’t seen an answer so I’m throwing it out there again. I broke my old oil pressure sending unit extender off in the block (yay.) so I’m replacing it with the aftermarket extender you see at all the usual suspect sites. It’s got the 45-deg angle at the end to make access easier for the sending unit. When I turn it into the block, it tightens up by hand with the angled end pointing up, like you’d need to install the sending unit. But if I tighten down the extender further with a wrench, the angled end would be pointing toward the oil filter or even further down. Any ideas for getting the extender tight into the block, with the angled end pointed where you need it? I’m afraid of trying to get another full turn out of it and breaking this one off too! Hope this makes sense? Thanks all! (74 Ranger, 302)

 

[1970 Palmer]

I'm guessing your replacement adapter is aluminum?

The originals I remember, were steel and there was less chance of breaking off the NPT treads in the block.

If you cannot get it tight, and also in the correct clocking position, just use a NPT die to very slightly clean up the male threads. Just a very small cut would be required. I'd try a quarter turn cut at a time.

Use a liquid thread seal, not tape.

John

 

[ND BRNCO]

Thanks John. I assumed it is steel but the wild horses site doesn’t say. I assumed it’s the same part Summit sells and they do say it’s steel...but shouldn’t assume! Sounds like a good idea with the NPT die, although I’m not familiar. No not using tape, permatex paste.

 

[1970 Palmer]

The NPT pipe thread die is available at any hardware store. Take the adapter with you for the correct pipe thread size.

John

 

[langester]

I just went through this a few months ago. My original extension was aluminum, I tried to purchase a steel one and all the vendors were out. I got an aluminum one from Wild Horses to try out. I will say it is a better unit than the stock one, the thickness of the material at the threads is double what my original was. I would use one again if I needed to for sure.
I had the same trouble, got it close but not quite enough turn to get vertical. I was getting frustrated so I figured what the hell. I tightened it another 3/4 turn, the whole time expecting it to snap, it did not thank God!
I agree with the pipe tap idea to gain a little on the threads, smart way to go for sure. I will say that if you are a gambling man I would not be afraid to put a bit more pressure on that wrench. There is a fine line between tight and broken. When I started as an apprentice Plumber one of my first questions was "how tight do I get these fittings"? The answer I got was " If you break it you went too far". Great advice! Ha!
Good luck with it!

 

[72Sport]

I just went through this a few months ago. My original extension was aluminum, I tried to purchase a steel one and all the vendors were out. I got an aluminum one from Wild Horses to try out. I will say it is a better unit than the stock one, the thickness of the material at the threads is double what my original was. I would use one again if I needed to for sure.
I had the same trouble, got it close but not quite enough turn to get vertical. I was getting frustrated so I figured what the hell. I tightened it another 3/4 turn, the whole time expecting it to snap, it did not thank God!
I agree with the pipe tap idea to gain a little on the threads, smart way to go for sure. I will say that if you are a gambling man I would not be afraid to put a bit more pressure on that wrench. There is a fine line between tight and broken. When I started as an apprentice Plumber one of my first questions was "how tight do I get these fittings"? The answer I got was " If you break it you went too far". Great advice! Ha!
Good luck with it!

Wrecking yards have steel ones on the later 80's 302's I collected a few when they were plentiful. I also removed the aluminum threads from my stock 72 302 for entertainment. Use a 6 point, 3/4" 3/8" drive deep socket to remove the nipple BEFORE you break it. Do not put any side load on the nipple. The more side load on the nipple the easier the nipple breaks.

 

[ND BRNCO]

I went with the “just close your eyes and go for it” advice and it worked out! Hex deep socket made it easy. Wasn’t sure I’d have clearance for that but no prob at all. Just gonna wait on the thread sealant to cure to fire her up and see how we did. Thanks all!

 

[reamer]

I just got a "dual port" extender, So no I run the stock sender and gauge, along with an under dash gauge...

 

[ND BRNCO]

May go that route too, if I have more probs with the stock senders.