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Overheating solutions

67horse

New Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
45
Loc.
Riverside CA
Ok I have a rather lofty dream for my Bronco and that is to be able to leave it idling for extended lengths of time like on trail runs with larger groups waiting to go through an obstacle or in the parking lots that are known as the california freeway system during the summer and not have it overheat even during the 100+ degree temperatures of the summer here in southern california. Now I know this is a dream but what have other people done to counteract their overheating problem (Everyone Ive talked to says its an old car it can never be done they will always overheat).

Some Ideas ive had so far are putting a pusher fan in the front of the radiator to blow air like it was moving at 50MPH and putting small fans in the back of the hood scoop to suck air out of the engine compartment
 

Amac70

ME
Joined
Mar 27, 2002
Messages
3,269
how hot is it getting? I know lots of people that leave ther rigs idiling all the time. Mine runs hot but im not ever worried about it overheating. The highest i saw this summer even in moab idiling all day is 220^. Basically a stock cooling system in my bronco.
 
OP
OP
6

67horse

New Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
45
Loc.
Riverside CA
Im running a 351 and it will get up close to 220 if im not moving when I start moving it cools down to about 180
 

Amac70

ME
Joined
Mar 27, 2002
Messages
3,269
I wouldn't worry about it then. 220 not overheating. now if your hitting 230-240 on a regular basis i would start worrying. My 351 runs 205-220 no matter what but doesn't ever get any higher or any lower.
 

76Broncofromhell

Bronco Totalitarian
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
4,232
Loc.
Reno, NV
Use the search and read. You'll have a few days worth of information to sift through, but you'll see almost every conceivable remedy to Early Bronco heating issues.
 

Heus33

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
7,407
If you've got a good fan and shroud and your cooling system is up to par (195 thermo, good water pump, clean system, good radiator) you might consider cutting out your inner fenders. That helped my header heat escape more easily. I would think that a pusher fan might help as well but I doubt small fans near the hood would make much difference. You could shim the back of the hood up an inch or so to let hot air escape when idling. TOFIC cut out a section of his hood line a rectangle and put in some mesh to let his breathe.

Hmmm other things to consider:
Burp the system to remove any air
Header wrap
Watter wetter (or just a drop of dish soap in the coolant)
Coolant mixture (75% water vs. 50/50)
You could block off the section of the grill that meets the core support to force more air through the radiator. (pic attached).

I'm sure others will chime in with more ideas.
 

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broncobillyusmm

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
78
Loc.
Mountain Home
Fans, fans, and more fans.

I run a 351W with a 4 core radiator, 14" electric pusher fan, and a factory mechanical fan blade. Average temp while moving 180 F, while sitting still with no electric fan 215+, while sitting still with no electric fan 190 F.

With radiators you have to make sure the air is being "forced" over the fins. With a mechanical fan you must have a good shroud. If you don't the fan is not actually pull air through the radiator is just pull air from behind the raditor across the engine and very little cooling is achieved. With an electric fan it is import to mount it as close as possible to the radiator.

Also if there is any blockage or restriction in the system it would have a large effect on cooling. To lose more heat from the system you could pull your defrost cable and turn the heater on full blast. This removes heat from the system exactly the same way as the radiator except it is a much smaller heat exchanger.
 

cgbexec

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Messages
2,071
Loc.
Naples, FL
There are a lot of theories on this and I am a subscriber to the following: The cooling system is a system and involves quite a few componants. Each one must be in good working order to cool the engine effectively. Stock radiators will work fine with stock engines. High horsepower engines produce more heat and require better cooling systems.

1) radiator (clean, good mixture of fresh coolant and sized appropriately for the engine).

2) Stock fan and shroud (engine driven fans need a shroud and the fan blades should be at least 1/2 way into the shroud). No shroud and the fan pulls air around the radiator instead of through it). Do not use engine driven flex fans for a trail rig. Flex fans are for drag racing.

3) Hoses (make sure your lower suction hose is in good condition and not sucking flat and restricting water-flow.

4) Water pump (should be in good working order).

5) Thermostat (Make sure you have one! Running without a thermostat is a sure way to overheat an engine. Run at least a 180 degree thermostat. Running too cool of a thermostat can produce the same results as running without one. Make sure that it is in correctly! I have seen them in backwards many times as I am sure many of you have.)

6) If you are running electric fans only, make sure that they are sized to pull the correct amount of air through the radiator. A $50.00 dollar electric fan is not likely to cool a 400 H.P. 351W.

7) Fan Clutch (If you are running one, make sure it is working properly. With the engine warmed up and not running!, the fan should be difficult to turn by hand.

If all of the above things are working properly, you should not be overheating. If you are still overheating, then I would look at wrapping headers or cutting out wheel wells, but only as a last resort.

P.S. - I don't like carburated engines to run higher than 205 even in 100 degree heat at idle. 220 scares me.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,955
Idle cooling performance, not dealing with anything else...
Move lots of fresh air through the radiator and then get it out of the engine compartment.
Play with pulley sizes and dry to overdrive (not the racer underdrive) the waterpump and fan.
Good shroud is a must. Try and actally seal it to the edge of the radiator. That little gap all the way around adds up to one big air leak bypassing the radiator.
Cowl induction hood acts as a chimney at low speeds (hurts at high speeds)
Body lift gives a little more room for air to get out of the engine compartment.
Seal the upper rad support to the grill so hot air in the engine compartment can't jump over the radiator and cycle back into the front of the radiator.
Open the inner fenders to let hot air out.

Do you catch a trend? controlling where the hot that needs to leave and get fresh air through the radiator.
 

Mherriford

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
613
Loc.
Oregon City, OR
what worked for me-
New fixed pitch mechanical fan- like stock
new shroud
flow cooler water pump
cut inner fenders
coolant recovery tank

it totally fixed the overheating problem- even on the trail I can leave it running as long as I want and it will never top 200-205
 

Sabas

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
654
Scott @ www.americanbronco.com sells the perforated fender skirts & also the air dam. He has a built 351w. I wheel with him, He has run the Hammers, & trails up in big bear w no problems.

The guys have chimed in on stuff that I have done & it works.
Sabas
 

Pa PITT

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 15, 2005
Messages
11,257
Loc.
Stephenville TEXAS
Before our hunting trip I did the block off the space between the grill and core support ...I made my own with tin snips and roofing tin ...then I used spray foam to fill the gaps ...I added foam between the raditor and core support gap..So the air has to go thru the raditor ...It sure seemed to help Idling along hunting it would stay at 190 ....If I stopped it moved up some but not like in the summer it would get up to 240.....
 

Yellow76

Full Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2005
Messages
162
I run a stroked 385W with a two core Afco aluminum radiator, mechanical fan, custom shroud and still had heating issues. At first I didn't have the shroud but then built one and based on the advice of Chuck from BC Broncos, I checked the pulley sizes. He told me the crank pulley should be bigger then the water pump pulley. I checked them and what do you know, they were the SAME. I swapped the water pump pulley for slightly smaller size and no problems since. I have a 3"body lift and still have my inner fenderwells. It worked for me. Let us know what you come up with.

Shawn
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,653
Miscellaneous ramblings alert...
I'd say with cooling and a Bronco, it's all of the above. Lots of things to do, to make these old bricks-on-wheels work like a newer vehicle.

You might try this if you're ever feeling like you haven't taken something off your Bronco lately and are going through withdrawls. Pull the hood all the way off and drive it like that for a couple of weeks. During your normal commute watch the gauge and see if it made a difference.
If your issue completely goes away with the hood off, then you at least can be certain that it is mainly an air-flow issue and deal with it accordingly. Like with your ideas of fans or extra venting or sealing around the radiator. Or again, all of the above.

If you still have CNS (climbing needle syndrome) even with the hood off, then even if you do have less-than-perfect airflow, you've still got issues in other areas. Like a larger capacity radiator or water pump. Not enough fan cfm. Or air in the system. Or a partially blocked water passage. Or incorrect tuning or whatever.

If it mostly goes away, but occasionally shows up when idling, and then goes away quickly with just the flick of the throttle to get the rpm's up, then I suppose you could narrow it down to just slightly low fan cfm, or waterpump cfm.

Just thinking out loud here of course, but that all sounds at least plausible as a test to narrow down the possibilities.
Luckily your "rainy season" is relatively short and you can plan your test period around it. I imagine it could get pretty interesting driving without a hood in a downpour.

Though like was said too, it's not panic time just yet. Modern vehicles run from 195 to 210 as their normal temp with no problems. What sets the modern ones apart from the old however, is the consistency with which they can hold those temps.
It seems to make no difference whether tooling down the freeway or idling down the 405 between the 101 and 105.
Oh, wait a minute. That IS a freeway! Sorry.

It's probably "all of the above" that helps the new cars. More air flowing more smoothly through the radiator AND out of the engine compartment. Pumps and fans and radiators sized properly for the power produced. And more efficiently turning fuel into heat and removing it from the engine through better coolant flow.

Anyway, just few thoughts on the subject. I've seen several Broncos remove their hoods on the trail before to avoid overheating. It worked exceptionally well in those cases, so it could work as a test.

Paul
 

ak68

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2004
Messages
453
cowl hood

Wouldn't a cowl hood scoop with the back open help get the air out of the engine bay at low speed or at idle? Most 351w installs need a hood modification anyway.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,955
Wouldn't a cowl hood scoop with the back open help get the air out of the engine bay at low speed or at idle? Most 351w installs need a hood modification anyway.

Yes, it is a chimney at low speeds. But at high speeds it pump air into the engine compartment. Since this thread is dealing with strictly low speeds then it would work just fine.
 

roundhouse

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Messages
2,886
Overheating at low speeds is an airflow problem with the rad, since the engine is making very little at idle.

I run a 3 core Wild Horses rad with a flex fan and shroud.
never had any problem, ever.

Overheating at high speeds is a waterflow problem or a too small rad.
 

Dave

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
2,196
An oil cooler with a fan on a 180 thermostat will remove a lot of engine heat and help keep the oil at a more optimum temprature.
 

Mrsalesco

Newbie
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
5
I run a stroked 385W with a two core Afco aluminum radiator, mechanical fan, custom shroud and still had heating issues. At first I didn't have the shroud but then built one and based on the advice of Chuck from BC Broncos, I checked the pulley sizes. He told me the crank pulley should be bigger then the water pump pulley. I checked them and what do you know, they were the SAME. I swapped the water pump pulley for slightly smaller size and no problems since. I have a 3"body lift and still have my inner fenderwells. It worked for me. Let us know what you come up with.

Shawn
My 75 has same size pulleys, also. If I change the water pump pulley, the power steering (Saginaw) and alternator belts will have to be downsized. What size belts did yours require after the change? What size pulley did you use for the water pump?
 

Mrsalesco

Newbie
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
5
My 75 has same size pulleys, also. If I change the water pump pulley, the power steering (Saginaw) and alternator belts will have to be downsized. What size belts did yours require after the change? What size pulley did you use for the water pump?
 
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